CB Trunk Construction DS1

[calden]

John:

I don't know what's underneath the mainsheet block swivel mounting area, but would assume that it's been reinforced with a backing plate of metal or wood. I'm sure someone will let us know.

I have recently put in cam cleats on the top of the trunk for the jib sheets. I was concerned about how sturdy it would (not) be to simply screw the cleats onto the centerboard trunk, so, after sanding off the gelcoat in that area, I mounted a block of mahogany that had been shaped underneath to match the curvature of the housing top:
[thumb=337]
This gave me something to sink the cleat mounting screws into.

In drilling the holes for this mounting block I was surprised to see how thin the trunk is at the top - maybe 1/4" max (didn't measure it.) So I mounted the wood with screws JUST long enough to hold, maybe going through the glass by 1/8", to help position the wood for a thorough epoxy job.

In retrospect I probably should have put in a backing plate of wood or maybe epoxied in some washers underneath, then bolted the wood on. The centerboard rarely if ever goes up that far into the trunk, so I didn't worry too much about extending down into the trunk a tiny bit.

This mounting has held really well after a couple of sails - the cleats feel really solid.

However, if you're mounting a cleat on the side for the vang (I thought of that, too) you do need to think about what's happening inside for centerboard clearance. One way to mount something might be to epoxy on a larger piece of wood (maybe 4"x5"x3/4") first to really grip the side of the trunk - then screw in your cleat.

Maybe someone else with a deeper understanding of the structural properties of fg could chime in. Please let us know what you find under the mainsheet swivel block, and how you mount that. I'm looking to replace mine sometime in the future.
Carlos

[KaiB]

John;

Which part nbrs did you end up with for the Harken base and block?

Carlos;

That is indeed a tidy installation; we will probably also upgrade this winter.

I have read posts which indicate that a guy oughta drill out the glass at least twice the diameter of his mounting screws - epoxy in the hole, and then drill the epoxy to proper diameter for the mount. Makes sense to me.

Kai

[KaiB]

Cool stuff...

I'm thinking this winter I'll upgrade across the board. Tain't "too" expensive on these little guys if you watch out.

We have the original fairleads and cam cleats mounted center CB and the original swivel-block-cam mainsheet setup on the aft of the CB trunk. I keep thinking I could get smoother pull out of an upgrade. A light ratchet block on the main would be cool.

Barber haulers for the jib sheets and a Phil H. traveler setup - yeah, that's all we need. Perhaps a cunningham for the jib, oh yeah...a 2/1 outhaul on the main (downhaul too, huh?)...must re-do the vang...finish the brightwork...fair hull...kite and hardware...new rope...oh yeah, a Carlos style tiller tamer.

Bearings in the trailer, re-do lights...

Did I really say not too expensive?

Hey, its all fun tho...too hot to sail.

[Phill]

The mainsheet swivel area at the aft end of the CB trunk, should have brass plate about 1/4" thick, glassed into that flat spot. Mine did. DS2543. I slighly shifted the base from the original, then drilled and tapped those new holes for my Harken swivel base. been holding for 16 years of hard racing stress.
phll

[KaiB]

Yep John,

Saw that base (and the associated block/cleat)...will do this winter. Keep us tuned in regarding holes vs. rotation.

Phill, in another post (jumper shrouds), has probably saved me a jib cunningham rig. He has also indirectly answered my question regarding forward tension. Jeez, I love this forum.

Now...if I could just sail as fast as he does.

Kai