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do i need a new mast to go faster?

PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2006 12:53 pm
by koros
hi, i posted in the wtb category that I was looking for a used protor mast to update the original mast on my ds1 (sail no. 162) wife won't let me spend the money for a new mast (1500 or so), but the old stock mast is tired, with internal old halyard blocks, unflexible etc, and she (not the wife) sure has trouble keeping up with the other boats,

then capt seasick thought i should try some other things first --" I think that I would begin with a PERFECTLY smooth and fair bottom, Next, I would try to get the correct shape on the foils (rudder & centerboard) Next, I would make certain that the hull is the correct weight, and has not picked up water. Next I would make certain that the rig tune is correct to give proper helm, pointing and power for the conditions. If that failed to get you to the front of the fleet, I would buy new sails, and repeat the process again, before buying a new mast. I think changing the spar will yield the LEAST gains of any change you make on the boat.
That is my opinion, I hope it is helpful"

then i said --
thanks for your thoughts mike....just to let you know -- the bottom is as near perfect as it can get, foils seem to be original to the boat, sails have been used for 3 yrs -- probably 15 to 20 times a year ( i think that makes them middle aged), tuning is harder because donut on base of mast is stripped -- it does not go down anymore -- shrouds are at their limit, oh and mast was broken and repaired before I got the boat)....so thats why i think a newer/lighter mast would help and then it would give me better opportunity to tune the rig. (and also make it easier to travel because it would be lighter to place and re-place) .

if anyone has another thought..pls let me know..thanks

go fast

PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2006 1:33 pm
by captainseasick
Adjusting mast rake will adjust the amount of helm it takes to go up wind.
Moving the mast aft will position the sail plan further back behind the centerboard, which is the center of lateral effort. This causes more of the winds power to strike the sails behind the centerboard, pivoting the bow into the wind more. It takes more and more helm to hold the boat on the wind. at some point, the boat become out of balance, with the rudder needing to be hard over to hold the boat on course. This acts like a big brake, and boats that are properly balanced will blow your doors off.
First things first are to get a new mast ram mechanism (about $12) and replace the broken one. Sail your boat in 12 kts of wind and if your tiller needs to be deflected more then a few degrees to hold course, adjust your mast for less rake. Don't confuse bend and rake, they have different functions.
I hope this helps
Mike

PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2006 2:16 pm
by koros
donut on base of mast is called a "mast ram mechanism"? where can i get it for 12 bucks? -- thanks, since the front shroud is at its limit, does that need to be extended (how?) so the top of the mast can come aft? ---thanks for all of your help on this

Mast adjustment

PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2006 3:04 pm
by captainseasick
If your fore-stay is all the way extended. it is almost certain that your mast is raked too far aft, and you have too much weather helm! You can check out the Cape Cod Shipbuilding web site, they still make the Daysailer and have every part, including two choices of new masts. also Proctor makes mast bases as well.
You should read the JOTZ sails tuning guide, or the North Sails One Design tuning guide for Daysailers if you are looking for competitive boat speed.
Mike