Spindrift bailer replacement

I just thought I would make this easier for the next guy. Since purchasing my 1985 Spindrift, I have been redoing the bottom, including putting on a barrier coat and bottom paint. The boat came with an Andersen "SuperMax" bailer, and the prior owner obviously had some leaking problems. There was a quick fix attempt at smearing some epoxy around the outside of the bailer flange where it met the hull.
For those who don't know, the Spindrift is intended to use the Andersen bailer that mounts from the bottom of the boat, not from inside the boat. The proper Andersen bailer for this is the "New Large" Bailer, available from Defender and other sources, and NOT the "Super Max" bailer, The "SuperMax" is intended to be mounted from the inside of the cockpit, and requires a different cutout size.
Another thing I learned is that it is highly recommended that if your bailer is leaking, to replace the whole thing, not just the gaskets.
Finally after removing the old bailer, you can see the lay up of the hull, and Spindrift's "not so thorough" sealing of the hull where the rectangular cut out for the bailer was made. From what I can see, it is a sandwich construction in this location, with a wood core. If, like me, your boat is going to sit on a mooring for several months of the year, and there is a likelihood that some water is going to end up inside the cockpit (though rain or otherwise), I think it is important to seal the edges of this cutout area with some kind of 2 part epoxy like Marine Tex. If you don't, you run the risk of the core getting waterlogged, and then you've got real problems. I am going to use "Goop" 2 part epoxy, because it is one third of the price of Marine Tex.
When mounting the new bailer, I intend to use 5200 as bedding between the bailer flange and the hull, although I thought hard about just going with 4200. I guess I would rather go with a more permanent connection, especially since the Anderson "New Large" bailer is not meant to be used with a gasket when mounting from the bottom.
Hope this helps anyone faced with the same problem in the future. In a future post, I will let you know how my attempts at finding a waterline worked out after I get the boat in the water.
For those who don't know, the Spindrift is intended to use the Andersen bailer that mounts from the bottom of the boat, not from inside the boat. The proper Andersen bailer for this is the "New Large" Bailer, available from Defender and other sources, and NOT the "Super Max" bailer, The "SuperMax" is intended to be mounted from the inside of the cockpit, and requires a different cutout size.
Another thing I learned is that it is highly recommended that if your bailer is leaking, to replace the whole thing, not just the gaskets.
Finally after removing the old bailer, you can see the lay up of the hull, and Spindrift's "not so thorough" sealing of the hull where the rectangular cut out for the bailer was made. From what I can see, it is a sandwich construction in this location, with a wood core. If, like me, your boat is going to sit on a mooring for several months of the year, and there is a likelihood that some water is going to end up inside the cockpit (though rain or otherwise), I think it is important to seal the edges of this cutout area with some kind of 2 part epoxy like Marine Tex. If you don't, you run the risk of the core getting waterlogged, and then you've got real problems. I am going to use "Goop" 2 part epoxy, because it is one third of the price of Marine Tex.
When mounting the new bailer, I intend to use 5200 as bedding between the bailer flange and the hull, although I thought hard about just going with 4200. I guess I would rather go with a more permanent connection, especially since the Anderson "New Large" bailer is not meant to be used with a gasket when mounting from the bottom.
Hope this helps anyone faced with the same problem in the future. In a future post, I will let you know how my attempts at finding a waterline worked out after I get the boat in the water.