Drain Plug?

[Clyde]

My DS1 has a plug about 6 to 8 inches forward of the centerboard lever on the starboard side of the trunk. What does it drain (if it's indeed a drain plug) or what is it for.

I am restoring the boat and am not all that familiar with it yet.

Thanks for any help.

[K.C. Walker]

That part of the boat with the drain plug is called keelson. It is not opened to the centerboard trunk and when the boat was constructed they were added separately. It is however open to the forward flotation tank through the forward bulkhead. It is a drain both for the keelson and the forward flotation tank.

[kokko]

As with every new ds1 owner, plan on replacing the waterlogged foam in the forward flotation tank

[ctenidae]

Presumably if there's a drain plug, your keelson is open to the bow tank. On older ones (mine, for instance), teh keelson is not conected to the bow tank, and ends as an open box end about 2 inches aft of the bow tank.

This bit of trivia has absolutely nothing to do with your question.

Your plug should drain the bow tnak. As kokko said, go ahead and get psyched up for a foam replacement project. It will help a huge amount, by all accounts (mine had no foam in it from the start- living on the edge with air-only tanks back in 1962!).

[Clyde]

Thanks for the info and tips. Would you suggest and inspection port in the forward bulkhead?

Sounds like a winter project!

[K.C. Walker]

Yes, an inspection port is the only way you're going to know the condition of the flotation. With luck, your flotation foam will be fine, as mine was. The tanks get moisture in them due to condensation sometimes even if they don't leak. Opening the flotation tank inspection port gives better ventilation for drying out tanks as compared to the drain plug. It's a good idea to inspect the drain plugs, as well. With age they do get cracks and don't seal completely.

[GreenLake]

Adding an inspection port isn't that much of a project. Should fit in a single afternoon. Fit the largest one you can afford (actually, they are not that expensive - it's just easier to get flotation in and out through a larger hole). 8" is not too large.

[Chris DSRI]

I too just went through the same on my Rebel-Spindrift vintage DS1. Knowing that I had at least some moisture in the hull airspace as evidenced by very slow drips seeping from between the two layers at the transom cockpit drain plug when the bow was raised exceptionally high, I drilled three 4.5" holes for 6" ports, spaced out such that I could enlarge it for an 8" port. Even though the drips stopped after a couple of weeks, I still found a quart of water, so I am glad that now have the two ports in the forward seat tanks and bow bulkhead. I was happy to see that the plain white slabs of styrofoam (3"x6" & 3"x12") were in good dry condition, and in some cases, still stuck to the upper surface with the original expanding foam used to adhere it there. Threw four pool noodles in that I had kicking around while I was at it.

Definitely recommend at least the port in the forward bulkhead.

Chris Tate
DS1 #11759

[bnnauti]

Chris, could you please send me some images of these inspection ports you cut in your boat. I've just purchased a Spindrift 17' DS1 at the very end of last season and had no understanding of a Keelson drain plug until I was removing the winter tarp and inspecting the boat. There was this small open drain hole in front of the centerboard trunk I had not seen last year. While a old pilot, and am attempting to learn everything from "Sailing for Dummies" and others so I might have a little fun with my grandchildren.

I would really appreciate any on understanding how to modify for inspection of this hull flotation material.

I can be worked at my work phone (906) 779-3553 and personal e-mail bagleys.mail@gmail.com.

Thank you.

[kokko]

Found this pic in the gallery. You can see the inspection ports
gallery/image.php?album_id=135&image_id=1752

[kokko]

Nothing to it. I used the port to inscribe a circle, which I cut out with a dremel. My foam flotation was severely waterlogged so I replaced it with swim noodles. Others have collected a mountain of liter soda bottles.

[Chris DSRI]

I looked and the only picture I had was of the forward inspection port (Beckson DP40-W), though the ones in the forward vertical surface of the seat tanks are the same. I used a hole saw, but other methods would be fine as well. The material was solid fiberglass approx 1/4" - no core to epoxy isolate. If you put the forward one in and find bad looking floatation, I'd definitely up-size the hole to aid in its replacement, along with putting the ports in the seat tanks.

I am guessing that my water infiltrates from some sort of small CB trunk crack that can't be seen easily. I am considering putting some sort of small hole in the vertical surface of the bailer port so that if I ever get a large amount of water in there, I could just remove the small plug plus the bailer, and much of it would slosh out during trailering. The small remainder would then be sponged out of the forward port.

Good luck!

-Chris

[GreenLake]

I went lo-tech in cutting the inspection port hole - just driled a ring of closely spaced holes and knocked out the inside; filed away the worst of the jagginess and the rest is hidden by the flange.

Was faster than driving to the H/W store for a specialized tool ...

I went for a large port as I knew I had soggy foam; in fact I did the foam exchange before putting in the lid, that gave some additional clearance.

[kokko]

Greenlake:

You would be amazed at how handy a Dremel is. Worth the price just to keep the lawnmower blades sharp.

[GreenLake]

Oh, I'm sure. (For the lawn mower, I have a bench mounted grinding wheel - came with the house).