Moderator: GreenLake
JACK FLASH wrote:I took a core sample of the wood under the behind the seat backs and was pleased to see in dry and in good shape.
JACK FLASH wrote: 2. Structural reinforcements... adding ribs to either side in cuddy area where these boats are notorious for "oil canning", and finally rebuilding of the hull to deck joint. Oh and rebuilding of the rotted core in the transom which I haven't decided how I am going to tackle yet.
JACK FLASH wrote:As for the deck/hull joint I am now on the fence about 5200 or an epoxy thickened with collidasilica. Either way I will epoxy the two together and clamp it with ALOT of c-clamps until it cures.
JACK FLASH wrote: I will then 5200 the new plastic rub rail channel that the rubber rub rail attaches to.
JACK FLASH wrote: Once cured I will drill holes and put a mechanical fastener every six inches or so. I have been debating if I was going to do this with rivets, wire, or staples, which was what Oday used. I have decided for ease and reduced cost I am going to use barrel nuts and screws. The rivets are probably really the best way to go but blind rivets are not an option (the rub rail has to be able to slide on over them) which leaves closed rivets. Easy enough to do but you have to buy a 600 dollar riveter.....no thanks.
JACK FLASH wrote:As for pictures I have a few. If someone can explain how to post them here I would be more than happy to share. Sorry I good with boats, not so much with computers.
If the wood (carlins) is in good shape I suggest you read up on something like SystemThree's EndRot kit. That's a nice method to keep wood from rotting - I know yours has lasted this long, but you never know whether you are maintaining it the same way the PO did. Perhaps you regularly bury the rail, or your boat is stored where moisture condenses, or, or.
For the ribs, I'm curious how you plan to do them. We've had long discussions here, as you probably found out.
For the transom. With the deck removed, can't you use something like a Fein multimaster or cutting wheel to slice off the laminate on the inside? I'd try the bottom half first, expose the wood and see how far the rot has spread upwards. You may not have to replace the whole thing.
If you use 5200, I would add a glass tab on the inside between deck and hull. (Mainly in the forepeak).
I would not use 5200 for that. If the PO had done that, you'd be cursing him now. Rub-rails need occasional replacement, and you should plan on a bond that can be removed, not a permanent one like you get with 5200.
Are these to hold the rail, or to hold the deck to the hull?
There's a lot of explanation in the "website info" part of the forum. Shoot me a PM (or ask a question in the thread on posting pictures) if there are some points that are still unclear.
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