by GreenLake » Wed Feb 19, 2014 10:48 pm
One labor intensive (but value increasing) approach is to "core" the hull. Look elsewhere on this forum for the "core project". If you did this, your hull would be nice and stiff and you would not require floorboards for weight distribution (but if your bilge is wet, you might want them to keep your feet dry).
To spread the load, you'd want something stiff. What about the kind of decking or dock planking from manufactured wood substitute. I have no idea what it's called, but you should be able to make something that looks roughly similar to the original - a number of planks on a few cross members, which would leave a bit of room below for any bilge water to collect.
However, unless you get something that's lighter than wood, weight might be an issue. Also, the original wood strikes me as not being 3/4" but possibly less, so some types of rough & ready replacements might make your footwells a bit more shallow.
You could go for the plastic grating used in locker rooms showers. That would be light weight and give you some separation from sloshing water, but I'm doubtful how well it would distribute weight.
I don't have good suggestions for the coamings. If they are not too far gone, you might be able to restore them in a way that they are not much more difficult to maintain than plastic. I sanded mine to clean wood, covered them in two layers of epoxy (SystemThree ClearCoat) followed by four coats of transparent PU varnish (SystemThree WR-LPU). It's been several years since I did this and no maintenance (other than to repair a spot I rubbed through with the underside of the tiller). Encapsulating the boards with epoxy seals them completely, so they stop "working". That, in turn, allows the PU to adhere without cracking (which seems the usual failure mode for varnishes). PU coatings are incredibly tough and scratch resistant, so the effect is like plastic. (I gave the same treatment to the CB trunk braces and they have held up as well, even though they get stepped on a lot).
Your floorboards are long gone, and even if they hadn't, I'm not sure whether the same kind of treatment would be as effective. The reason is that floorboards (often) get submerged for extended periods, and any small defect in the coating would wick moisture that then could not escape. That's not an issue for coamings or braces.
~ green ~ lake ~ ~