Heading off to purchase Hull #02?

[K.C. Walker]

I think in this case we can modify the old saying to, "a hole in the yard surrounded by fiberglass into which we can pour time and money". Mine wasn't free… it looked pretty good… was fairly complete… and I still put a lot of time and money into it!

Hey, it's a boat! At least I didn't get sucked into building one from scratch.

[TIM WEBB]

Dearest Tim,
My most humble apologies for calling You "John";
It was not meant to be any intentional slight (Heck, some of the nicest people I Know are named "TIM"! =:>) )

As for Your idea of sliding carriage bolts in to the slots in the bracket...it's ingenious, however I won't trust (this bracket base more than Your idea) the application. My plan was/is to run bolts (although Your idea of galvanized, which would be likely stronger than S/S, especially considering the torque & downward/sideward force of an outboard vs. a trolling motor, and their necessary overall length) through the same holes that secure the current bracket base, and cut starboard (or for that matter a 2x10/couple of laminated small pieces of Ext. grade plywood) and mount a 'custom bracket' in the same location, probably protruding 2-4" above the top of the transom, so the motor can be swung forward/raised when sailing, or not needed. I have a 5hp Honda (newer model) 4stroke that I was/am contemplating instead of a trolling motor so this will nd. to be a little 'beefy (& yep, I know the hull weight is nearly nada, however it's pretty easily doubled when I stuff 4 souls in the cockpit).

The little bracket base actually has 6 mounting screws, so I planned on using all of them, both top and bottom to secure the mounting plate.(or at least that's the 'plan' at present)
-M

No apologies needed: I was honored to be confused with the great John Alesch! ;-P

I think I see your dilemma, now that I've studied the pic of your existing motor mount a bit closer, and your solution seems to be well thought out. Just FYI, if you want to make any part of your mount from composite "lumber", and can't find any locally, these folks can hook you up:

http://www.garelick.com

They make o/b motor stands, and will sell/send you whatever piece of composite you need for your project ...

[SailinMick]

Yea, LOVE. Glad you have experience at this. However that removes the "I didn't know" from spousal conversations about money, time, mess. There is something special about bringing an old boat back to life. Mine was 'Free' so its going to need a lot of love too.

Swash,
I know You'll find this staggeringly confusing, but I stand as a complete exception to the rule of boat owners who throw massive amounts of $$ in to holes in the water. I've always treated the restorations (exceptions being a VERY Short list and the habit carries over there as well, for the 'keepers'...3 of which we've owned >20yrs) as a secondary BUSINESS, and of the well over 150 done to date, nearly every one has sold for a dramatically higher price than purchased for; and yes, for what it's worth I've salvaged more than a few also. Have a 45' tractor trailer filled with 'parts' (<--no kidding) and around Christmas time haul off piles(make that drums) of stainless & aluminum extrusions, bronze & brass, copper and scrap steel to the recyclers. Last year it netted almost $3k, and that was a years worth of collected materials along w/aluminum cans.

If You religiously toss every trashed s/s screw in a bucket, then it goes from a bucket to a barrel, and then on to a trailer & off to the scrap yard once yearly, it can really add up. Between bidding on the wholesale salvage insurance claims, and the CL (& other solicited) "Free"/almost free ones, it's like the psyche of a car dealer. You EITHER see:

A: something worth returning, to something close to (or even beyond & superior to) It's original condition;
B:(& this is the category where the DS Falls, for me, for likely a while, and for obvious reasons needs to be a REALLY Short list) A "Keeper", because there's just "Something about it"..... and finally:
C:Piles of valuable parts & pieces & fasteners & materials, surrounded by destroyed Fiberglass Resin & Cloth, or Wood or Steel/Aluminum;

It's like a professional oyster shucker.
Once in a blue moon, You find a pearl.

And agreed, there aren't too many unused excuses remaining in life at this point (especially for the Spouse), however the 29 out of 30 that dramatic profits are gleaned from, is sufficient to minimize the critiques (from the critics, whether her, neighbors, potential buyers, or the worst of them, myself)filled with negative adjectives;

My Grandfather said "Find out what You love and do that every day for work, and You'll never work a day in Your life". He lied, but his intentions were good; IF this were just a bit more profitable and less weather related for production processes (as in paint booths for boats get pretty pricey), I'd have definitely taken it on full time. As a secondary career, it still keeps me appreciating,

the pearls.

off to work,
-M

[SailinMick]

I think in this case we can modify the old saying to, "a hole in the yard surrounded by fiberglass into which we can pour time and money". Mine wasn't free… it looked pretty good… was fairly complete… and I still put a lot of time and money into it!

Hey, it's a boat! At least I didn't get sucked into building one from scratch.

K.C.,
the secret is to make it More time than $$$.
As I've been telling everyone who's known me any length of time in this life....
it's keeping me OUT of trouble.

Free time seems to eventually lead to same or spending of that additional funding.
Never need to have the 'greatest, newest, most super duper gadget'.
Learn to function with the basics, then everything beyond is appreciated, always.
This restoration in my case is going to probably cost less than $500., and that's mostly because the resin, much of the hardware, cloth, paint, primer, sand paper, sanders, and more is already owned and color selection was pretty easy based on 'left overs' from former projects. The most expensive item for 'Bethesda' will be sails;
guaranteed.
(& then again, I rarely factor labor. Far more than once it's been < minimum wage)

The last 1 built fm. 'scratch' was when I was 9-10. A Pram. Learned lots of valuable lessons (like Don't Build from Scratch EVER AGAIN =;>) )
-M

[Windrider]

Hi M

My name is Clark Teal and I post as Windrider.

I have Daysailer number 11 and am interested in following your restoration and assisting where I can. I have looked at the photos you have and compared to my boat "Sky Pilot" I would agree it appears to be a very early boat. The sail and sail number sound good. Positive identification would be a bronze plate that should be attached to the cockpit trim across the aft of the cockpit. That plate will have two numbers on it, the hull number which for your boat would probably be in the low 1300's, that would be the sequential number of all hulls built by Mascot for various boat builders. The second number is the class number which in my case was the 11 th Daysailer. The boat was built by O'Day from a hull supplied by Mascot.

I would not worry much about the outboard bracket at this time as I am sure it was not supplied by O'Day but was a dealer add on.

I would also not use the Interlux paint, as you know painting is 95% preparation and that is not a long life paint. I use a two part urethane "Shop Line" by Dupont over epoxy primers.

I also have restored several older boats including Rebel #3 built in 1947.

As I am involved in a granddaughters Graduation Party I will not be able to correspond much this weekend.

I am looking forward to sharing conversation and photo's with you. My boat was very complete and intact when I obtained it.

Good Sailing

Clark

[jeadstx]

I'm also interested in following your restoration of DS #2. My Day Sailer II and Mariner are now pretty much were they need to be, other than maintenance. I have my Rhodes 19 (partially restored) and the Beetle Boat Swan to restore. The BB Swan has some features similar to the DS1. Marscot bought out the Beetle Boat Company in the mid 50's. My Swan is about 1952 vintage and has the same type of lever operation for the centerboard as the DS1, although the centerboard is aluminum. The aluminum outboard bracket (one piece) I have seen on other early O'Day boats built by Marscot. Mast and boom are aluminum as well. The boom is original to the boat.

John

[Swashbuckley]

Congrats on the $$ side, my endeavors run about a little more that 50 % make a profit. My wife also agrees with your comment on time and money. My activities keep me out of much more costly and destructive habits that others seem to revel in. We have a pretty strong family habit of reuse, repurpose, recycle but I think you are on a higher level. Awesome. New and shiny has never really been our thing. There is just something about bringing an old boat, truck, antique back to life and finding it a new home. I think I would love rummaging through your recycle bin. Oh, my wife's Scotch heritage keeps me from throwing money at anything. lol.

So on with the project, I think I am going to learn a few things.

[SailinMick]

Hi M

My name is Clark Teal and I post as Windrider.

I have Daysailer number 11 and am interested in following your restoration and assisting where I can. I have looked at the photos you have and compared to my boat "Sky Pilot" I would agree it appears to be a very early boat. The sail and sail number sound good. (1)Positive identification would be a bronze plate that should be attached to the cockpit trim across the aft of the cockpit. That plate will have two numbers on it, the hull number which for your boat would probably be in the low 1300's, that would be the sequential number of all hulls built by Mascot for various boat builders. The second number is the class number which in my case was the 11 th Daysailer. The boat was built by O'Day from a hull supplied by Mascot.

(2)I would not worry much about the outboard bracket at this time as I am sure it was not supplied by O'Day but was a dealer add on.

(3)I would also not use the Interlux paint, as you know painting is 95% preparation and that is not a long life paint. I use a two part urethane "Shop Line" by Dupont over epoxy primers.

(4)I also have restored several older boats including Rebel #3 built in 1947.

As I am involved in a granddaughters Graduation Party I will not be able to correspond much this weekend.

I am looking forward to sharing conversation and photo's with you. My boat was very complete and intact when I obtained it.

Good Sailing

Clark

Hi Clark/WindRider,
"M" is just short for Mick;
I'll try and address Your posting 'by the numbers (because there's a lot of content, thanks)
1-There's no trim remaining along the aft of the cockpit (and frankly, I've been scouring the internet to find pictures for patterns of what the
interior/trim/moldings/coamings all looked like and materials used). If there was a brass name/ID plate, it's long gone. There is what appears to be a brass (or bronze?) base for a pad eye/swivel blocks that was hacksawed off, on the stbd. aft cockpit fiberglass coaming between transom & cockpit. It appears there were 4, 2 outboard on both sides of the 'decking' for the rig, and 2 slightly inboard of same (where this 1 remains on the Stbd. side), w/2 holes for the formerly located one to port. It doesn't appear to be an id plate at all (I've restored plenty of Pearson's, Morgan's, Catalina's and Columbia's and their ID plates were still attached...restored them too & our current P39 Pearson fm. 1975 is hull # 72 per it's ID Plate, located right under the companionway entry...ergo, I know what to look for, there's just no original trim left on this hull at all)
2-I'm sure the old outboard bracket (relatively basic in design) slid in to this base on the transom and You are surely correct that it probably wasn't original, however it is the proper vintage and I'd love to locate another similar one, just to keep it 'correct'; during the interim, I'll rig up something to take it's place, working w/the same drilled holes, probably the same backing nuts on the inside of the transom as well w/spacing collars to give the extended length bolts additional lateral strength.
3-Interlux Brightsides isn't 2 part, it isn't Imron, and it isn't Awlgrip...You're quite right. However with an additional hardener added it does firm up quite nicely and is very brush-able (or tip & roll-able), and most importantly...I already have several gallons, along w/4-5 qts of great colors for tinting. Given a few weeks of hardening before hitting the water, it will do fine, especially over 2 coats of "Pre-cote". I have a 1974 221 Mako 22'10" open fish center console boat painted w/the same products, the same way 7 yrs ago and it still looks so awesome that folks on the opposite side of the Canal (and even standing on our dock under the cover) swear the finish looks brand new. It's been run hard and fished bunches and scrubbed plenty. Don't sell Interlux short, they make gr8 paints (although I confess to still being a sucker for Petit's Yacht Oil Base for interior applications and Petit's Trinidad for bottoms down here in the tropical waters of S.Fla, because they hold up and are low maint.)
4-we have plenty in common; I restored rebel #1766! I plan on using 2 sails I retained fm. same (when sold I had 8 sails for it and the buyer only chose to pay for 6) for the DS when splashed until my spec. sails arrive.

I'll check out Dupont's Shop Line Paints tomorrow, and Whatever pictures You have of the interior, or original interiors, seats, sole, cockpit coamings and 'everything', obviously I'm working w/a blank canvas and IF I can just see how it's supposed to be equipped, I can duplicate the original layout
Here's Hoping Your Grand Daughter's Graduation and Party came off without a hitch,
Respectfully,
-Mick

[K.C. Walker]

On the paint: questions and corrections.

Interlux sells Brightsides as a one part paint and I don't see any hardener offered anywhere. What hardener are you using Mick? I used Brightsides on a boat 15-20 years ago and it still looks great, though it spends 10 months of the year in a boathouse.

Shop-Line is PPG's second-tier paint. DuPont's second tier paint is Nason. These are for auto body and formulated to be sprayed. I have not used the Shop-Line but have used the Nason and it's held up well, at least in New England, on a car that sits out 24/7.

[Windrider]

K.C.

You are correct "Shop-Line" is PPG's second tier. I have used Brightsides, Imron, and Shop-Line on wood and glass boats. Brightsides is good on wood and will give good life if cared for. A glass hull is hard and less damage will occur if a hard paint is used. Catalyzed Urethane ( Imron, Awlgrip, and Shop-line) are hard paints with high gloss retention. I undercoat all glass hulls with epoxy primers, if the boat will not be wet stored for more than1 to 2 weeks the entire hull will be painted with Catalyzed Urethane. If the boat will be wet stored on the Great Lakes I will use epoxy enamel or VC-17m below the water line over the epoxy primer.

Yes Shop-line is formulated for auto repair shops but is very similar to Imron or Awlgrip and much less expensive. If I were painting a Hatteras I would use Awgrip as I believe the do.

I always use spray applications.

I also think if you have a paint system you are familiar with that works for you by all means use it.

Good Sailing

Clark

[Windrider]

Mick

I wrote an artical for the Spring 2014 Day Sailer Quarterly with a past owner of DS-11 and will be glad to send you a copy if you would provide a e-mail address. There are pictures included along with some suggestions for improvements over the original design. I have not done a pure restoration because I use the boat as a daily sailor, and I do not think the design has a significant market value similar to that of classic Chris Craft.

I will get together more photo's as time permits.

If you would e-mail photo's of the parts you are trying to identify I will give a try.

Happy Sailing
Clark

clarkteal@sbcglobal.net

[SailinMick]

Clark,
Ck Your email;
replying to the other postings in the a.m. and thanks guys,
will address paint topics then,
-mick