BROKEN WOODEN SEATS, DS-1 (2nd problem)

[Guest]

My DS-1 has mahogany seats -- I believe they're originals dating to 1961 -- that show evidence of several repairs over the years to hold together the joint between (a) the two relatively short (3' or so) seats running out at mid-ship from the centerboard trunk, and (b) the longer seats (5' or so) running lenthwise along the port and starboard sides that intersect the mid-ship seats described above.

I'm currently inclined to prop up the joint with a mahogany or pressure-treated T-shaped post, perhaps anchoring it to the floor with fiberglas using my West system stuff, but would welcome any other proven solutions to the problem.

Chuck Goodrich (good5buck-at-attbi.com)

[Peter McMinn]

I seem to have the same situation as you did back in August. I have a DS1 just a year older than yours, and the teak seats and thwart have split and been repaired a few too many times. I've decuided to replace them, along with the comings, with new Mahogany. I also have to replace the central support, which is rotted out plywood glassed to the floor. What did you end up doing for support? If you used your "T-shaped post" what sort of material did you use?

[Guest]

What are your class numbers? I'm trying to get a fix on the year my DSI was built. Class No.765

Steve Link (sjlink502-at-aol.com)

[Guest]

Paperwork with my newly purchased boat says 1959. Class# is 129

Seat pieces are in good shape, tied together with 1/2" plywood ,underside, with screws up into the mahog. One is a little loose, I will add some additional screws, when I get back to it in the spring. One coaming is in about three pieces which needs gluing up or replacing. Howerver, no floor boards, for which I will be looking for info on in the spring, if I can get to see a boat of the same vintage.

John C.

John C. (ghampe-at-rcn.com)

[Peter McMinn]

A little research tells me that to find stock in the required dimensions I'd have to knock down an old growth tree. A local shipwright recommended using a 1/4" teak veneer laminated to 1/2" cdx. This could be done in planks, then cut to dimension. Outside edges would be dadoed to accept solid teak, all others resin sealed. Varnish all and call it good. This seems like a pretty sound and economical solution. Just might go for it. Any thoughts?

[Guest]

Peter,

You may not have to knock down old growth wood. It might take a little research but there are a couple of firms in upper WI, Minn or MI that are harvesting old hardwood from the floor of Lakes Superior and Michigan. These trees were cut years ago and sank while being transported. The cold water has preserved them like new. Just an idea if you want to be eco conscious and authentic in your restoration.

Steve Link (sjlink502-at-aol.com)