Hi Scott, glad to see everything is working out, but sorry you circumsized you mast- check your spam email, they have pills for that.
A shorter mast will cause more rake. I suggest putting temporary shims or wedges under the mast until the shrouds (sidestays) are tight, assuming you haven't changed their adjustment. Then your rake should be the same as before. Replace the wedges with something the same height but sturdy.
Also, let the main halyard hang free. It should hang some distance abaft the mast. Make a mark on the boom where the halyard contacts it.
There is some ambiguity in measuring mast rake so I suggest a new standard: Just mark the boom at 1 foot from mast with "3 degrees", at 2.1 feet with 6 degrees, at 3.2 feet with "9 degrees", then optionally interpolate to your hearts content. I used the formula A=B(tan a) where "A" is the distance along the boom (1, 2.1, 3.2 feet), "B" is the distance B2 to B3 (20.5 ft), and "a" is the angle at the masthead, i.e. 3, 6, 9 degrees. Then see where the main halyard touches the boom when it hangs free. Normal mast rake is in the center of this range.
To evaluate mast rake you need to sail on a beat (as close to the wind as you can [about 45 to 50 degrees true off the wind]) in an 8 to 10 knot breeze. The indicator of balance is the tiller, in this breeze the tiller should be centered on average. If the tiller needs to be constantly pulled towards the high side that's weather helm; a bit is good (it makes the boat act like a foil and pulls it toward the wind) but too much will cause the boat to slow due to friction, will put unnecessary and potentially destructive side loads on the tiller and rudder, and will tire the helmsman's arm. The solution to regain balance is to tighten the jib sheet and/or loosen the mainsheet and/or raise the centerboard halfway.