My DS1 Hardware Updates So Far...

[Anstigmat]

After last season I figured out what I didn't like about the DS and what I thought needed fixing so here we go.

1. The cam cleats needed upgrading because they were the ancient original DS1 hardware. Even after cleaning attempts the jib cleats were not particularly 'springy' and the mainsheet similar. The lines were kind of hard to yank out at times, no bueno. Updated the whole jib system with Ronstan tracks, 55mm auto-ratchet blocks via I think GreenLake's advice, and new medium cams on the original brackets. I used an angle grinder to remove the cam and little bar, but left the fairlead in place. Then I simply used one of the existing holes and drilled out a new one to fit the replacement.

2. I fit the new mainsheet block that I got from D&R marine. It looks to me like what they sell is suited for mid boom sheeting which would imply that i'm going to put a new fiddle block on the boom and have the whole thing contained among the two pieces of hardware. I plan on mostly running the line the way O'Day intended with the original blocks, save that I'm using the new block. Which leads me to wonder if I bought the wrong thing in a way... Should I thread the line around the upper and lower sheaves in an S fashion before entering the cleat or just ignore the upper sheave altogether and simply thread it around the lower and out through the cam?

The cam is mounted upside down, which lead one Facebook DS owner to tell me what I'm doing is "suicide", because I'll never get the line out in a puff. I have not tried it yet, but I don't D&R would sell me a "suicidal" mainsheet block. Seems like you yank up or yank down on the line...what's the big deal?

3. The as yet unfinished update will be to my outhaul. I was using a simple line attached to the clew that was tied to the end of the boom. This made reefing slow and annoying. Also, I'd like to run my normal bolt rope sail loose footed as a test. I'm going to do a modified version of a Harken diagram I saw. Line tied to a shackle on the eye at boom end, goes through the clew and down through a cheek block, ends through a micro cam cleat with a fairlead. I'm hoping this allows for faster reefing and sail shape adjustments if I decide loose footed is working. (I know my bolt rope sail is not ideal for loose footed but it can't hurt to try).

4. I have everything I need to set up my Harken vang kit, that will be the last project. I'm thinking about using dyneema soft shackles to attach the hardware to the mast-eye and boom bail. Though I'd like to maybe also add a normal shackle just to make attachment and re-attachment fast.

Here are some pics!

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[Anstigmat]

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I should also mention that pictured is my new Epropulsion Spirit 1.0, and halyard bag which I have snapped under the cuddy top.

[tomodda]

Thanks for the photos, looks like you are coming along! Nice electric motor too.

A comment on the "upside down cam cleat" on the main - it's not "suicide," but can be damn inconvenient. Imagine you're hiked out with the boat at a nice 15 degrees of heel... Now you only have a few degrees of motion to get the mainsheet out of the cam before either your hand or the sheet hits the side-deck. If the cam were on top, then you'd have all the range you'd want to yank the sheet up and out of the cam. I usually don't cleat my mainsheet in anything over the gentlest of breezes (I'm a gusty lake sailor), but uncleated you now have the opposite problem. If you're not careful you may inadvertently cleat your sheet, there's so little angle to work in. Don't forget that you're also steering the boat and maybe holding the foresheet as well... A finicky main cleat is just one more complication that you don't need.

That being said (writ), I wouldn't run out and change it just yet. Sail with it some and see how you like it. It may work for YOU, and that's all that matters!

Tom

[GreenLake]

I sailed a DS upwind for a longer leg on a cruise, and that boat had the "wrong" cleat orientation. "Suicidal" is attention grabbing, but after fighting the tendency of this setup to cleat up when you definitely don't want it means that if it had been my boat, that part would have been the one I took the angle grinder to right on getting back home. Just sayin...

PS: an no, if you want to ignore the upper block, that's fine, but no S shape.

[Anstigmat]

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So I actually think it needs the S run because it creates upward stability so I can 'tug' down on the line in the cleat. I tried running just through the big block and the whole thing pulls forward.

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So this is my new outhaul. I wanted something faster to work with then when I was tying and untying knots. My main has one reef set up and no jiffy reefing. Also! I wanted to try to run loose footed, so this will theoretically allow me to adjust sail shape... It is a bolt rope sail but I work with what I got...

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I wanted to install the cam 'correct-ways' leading to the line but the boom is too curved and small. I could get chafe but I'll keep an eye on it, it's nice dyneema line. Worst case I go back to what I was doing before.

[GreenLake]

Here are a couple of observations. Seeing your "S" curve with bit of friction at that pin, my reaction would be to reinforce my conclusion that that simply isn't the correct part for the job. But as long as you have it, it does require pull at the top sheave to keep it upright.

I don't rig my outhaul more than once a season. I loosen it when I get to land, but I've stopped taking the main off the boom. I just roll it up next to it. That means outhaul and reefline can stay rigged.

About your cam cleat. Once you sail with it, you may find that you'd prefer a location further in from the end. Hard to tell in your picture.

Here's an older picture of my setup, when I used two blocks (later found that I didn't have enough distance to keep both). And my outhaul like is now longer so there's a free end that is lead along the boom to the front so I can grab it there to adjust the outhaul even with the mainsheet released.

Mind you, your setup is perfectly fine for adjusting the outhaul when there's no wind pressure on the sail, like when you are at the ramp. Mine was worse, because it was like yours but tied off a the horn cleat at then end of the boom - where it was definitely not accessible while underway.

This is one of those things where you simply have to sail your boat the way you have it set up and see how this works for you. If its fine (or I should say, as long as it's fine) you can leave it. When it stops being fine, you'll have a better idea what doesn't work for you and in which direction to look for an improvement.

I've sailed on boats with so many sail controls as to make a DS look like a kid's toy. When I started out, I wouldn't have known what to do with half of them. At least now I know what most of them are for, but I'm not eager to upgrade to boats like that; but I've definitely graduated past the bare aluminum of sail controls by now. So, let us know how this is working out in practice and how you like it.