New coaming gasket

[BobRichardson]

Good morning.
I am redoing the woodwork on my 1966 O'Day DSI. The boat has a wooden coaming and a small tadpole-type gasket between the wood and the hull. The gasket has a 1/8 inch bulb, is 1 inch wide, and has a flange thickness of .05 inches.
Does anyone know where I can buy a replacement gasket?
Many thanks,
Bob

[GreenLake]

I used closed-cell weather stripping as replacement.

The key is not to use something that does not retain water, but conforms well enough so it can close the gap.

Unless you are into recreating the boat to factory conditions for the sake of it, in my view, the appearance of that detail isn't particularly critical compared to the function. I honestly don't notice it any longer and people give me the same oohs and ahhs for the wooden coamings as they used to

If the detail is critical, I would call Rudy at D&R Marine and discuss this with him.

[BobRichardson]

Thanks, Green River.
I found some 1/16" x 1 inch closed cell weather stripping in white at Amazon. Search term: 1 inch white weather stripping 1/16 inch thick. I might prefer 1/32, but could not find anything that thin.
Thanks for the tip. I'll let you know what we end up using and send some photos.
Bob

[GreenLake]

I used gray instead of white, but my deck is colored dark red. For a white deck, I might have chosen something different.

I wouldn't worry about the nominal thickness, the stuff compresses quite nicely. !/32 nominal would seem awfully thin to me.

[tomodda]

Bless you both for writing "Coaming" instead of "Combing".... If there's one thing that sets my teeth on edge in this forum (besides spammers), it's Combing our Daysailers!

[GreenLake]

Nautical or boat building terms are just not in the usual spell check / autocorrect dictionaries. It's a shame. It's not just the wrong, similar sounding words, but also the change in writing apart terms that were written without a space for centuries.

However, not everyone has read all of Patrick O'Brian or is up on what terms have legitimately shifted in modern use. So thanks for finding a positive way to reinforce good terminology - I bet many people here are scared to post. The stats report between 30 and 50 users at any time, but we see a new post only every few days. There's definitely a disconnect.

[tomodda]

People shouldn't be scared to post, despite curmudgeons like me

And I need to remember that not everyone has been sailing since they were tadpoles. I was surprised to meet a gentleman this past week who's just now taken up sailing at nearly my age (Ok I'm not THAT old, but still...) and quite enjoying it. All good.

[BobRichardson]

Good morning, and thanks Green Lake for your input.
Me: a bit confused.
You said: The key is not to use something that does not retain water, but conforms well enough so it can close the gap.
Did you mean: The key is TO USE something that does not retain water . . .
I found this on Amazon that indicates it is used on boats.
https://www.amazon.com/Yotache-Adhesive ... r=8-1&th=1
Thanks, all.

[GreenLake]

Yeah, too many negatives there.

The key is to avoid trapping moisture.

How's that?

About the product link.
If you have a white deck, white would be a good color, mine is painted in a dark red, so I picked a medium gray instead.

You don't need anything that's as wide as shown here. 1/2" or even 3/8" wide would be fine. You really only need a thin strip at the top edge where the deck meets the coaming. If that gap is sealed, you've achieved the objective and unlocked a new level.

But other than that, it does appear to be the closed cell foam.

I bought mine in a store, so I was able to assess how well it compresses. You don't want anything that's so stiff that it doesn't compress as you tighten the screws on the coamings. But it could be that all of them use the same type of closed cell foam anyway so there would be no difference.