Topside separated from hull

[EberbachD]

We were out this weekend on our 1980 DS II, with a pretty good wind. After about 15 minutes of sailing, we heard a pop and watched the forward stay pull the top of the boat back from the hull (like a can of dog food). We hurriedly took down the sails and paddled in. I had no idea the the forward stay was not mounted in anything besides the topside. Had I known that this might occur, I would have considered a few well placed bolts to be sure that they would not separate. Thought I would pass along this info along with a picture, in case anyone wants to be preventive.



David Eberbach (DavidEberbach-at-aol.com)

[Roger]

I had a similar separation about 4 feet back due to a previous owner allowing the gunwale to ride up and down and catch the dock edge during a storm without fenders. I fixed it by prying it up, adding epoxy glue, then clamping.

I also through bolted midship cleats just behind the chainplates, but will consider some through bolts on an anchor chock near the bow to double as reinforcers for the hull deck joint.

[Peter McMinn]

Is this a problem specific to a generation or manufacturer? I've heard of this happening--sounds nightmarish. Has anyone come up with some preventative reinforcement?

[Guest]

Check out the thread in "Repair & Maintenance" that is headed "Hull to deck joint separation" for some hints on how to reinforce what appears to be a potential failure site when the goop the constructors used to join deck to hull gets old.
I am much comforted by the fact that I cinched my forestay chainplate to the back of the bow eye I had to replace, so now forestay tension is transferred direct to the strongest part of the hull, the stem.
Fair winds, following seas.
Felix

Felix Graham-Jones (felix.graham-jones-at-snet.net)

[Peter McMinn]

Hi Felix:
I'm interested in doing this myself, though in my '60 DS1, I might have to enlarge the forward inspection hatch.

Can you describe the nuts n' bolts of how you cinched your chainplate to the back of the bow eye? Was a turnbuckle involved? A pic, if possible, would be useful.

[Roger]

http://usmariner.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.p ... ght=boweye

Check the above link. Someone on a mariner did the same fix. The problem on our DS II's is access. I think through bolting the joint may be the easier way to go. Perhaps camoflauged as a toe rail, or bow pulpit, anchor cleat, bow roller for an anchor... just some ideas

[Peter McMinn]

Just what I was looking for, thanks Roger. I've been able to access & tighten nuts on both the chainplate & the boweye, so I think I should be able set this system up. Probably will replace the old hatch with the biggest I can find first.

[Roger]

Where is your access hatch now Peter? Is it on the forward bulkhead or on top of the deck behind the stemhead?

The reason I ask, is because, I already have one in the bulkhead, just a 4", but was considering something on top of the deck. I'd like to stow the anchor and rode, but would rather not have it in the cuddy. I have seen slot hatches, say 4" x 16" where the anchor fits down into this slot, and is covered by a correspondingly narrow hatch.

Roger

[Peter McMinn]

My bulkhead hatch is also 4" round, but want to install something into which I can fit my whole shoulder for decent access to the assembly discussed above. I wonder about the on-deck hatch, Roger. Sounds like a bigboat solution to a littleboat problem. Tried a bucket?

[Roger]

Actually, it is more like a dish tub, but same effect... I still have to store it in the cuddy. I also thought of making chocks on the forward deck and just run the rode back to a smaller bucket.

Anybody else store their anchor on deck or outside the cuddy? If so, how?

Peter, Rod Johnston put a larger hatch in his DSII, but his was in the sole to access under the mast for a repair. You could probably find a Hobie dealer, that would sell you a 10" hatch (used on their pontoons) that you could mount instead of your 4" on the bulkhead. Remember however, that you will have to remove a fair amount of floatation to make the repair, then perhaps replace it with spray in foam to regain your safety margin of bouyancy.

[Felix Graham-Jones]

Roger's link leads to very good pictures of a solution to this problem that gives me comfort that it resolves the underlying engineering issue. Just throughbolting and clamping the hull/deck joint wouldn't as it doesn't transfer the upward tension on the forestay chainplate to some more sturdily constructed portion of the hull.
Access issues are a different question. In my DS2 the right way in seemed to me to be to construct a access hatch in the back of the cuddy. Once in there I encountered very stinky, waterlogged foam which is now replaced with lots of firmly sealed empty soda bottles, but I think the DS1 has a different forepeak layout, so I cant offer any advice about what's right for them.
For me the washtub in the cuddy works fine for anchor and rode - actually its an old laundry basket, but if cutting into the forepeak don't for goodness' sake forget to ensure there's something very buoyant in there that can't be carried off or up into different parts of the hull. If you've ever had the opportunity to observe a DS turtled - I unfortunately have, once, and hope never again to - you'll know that the weight of water in the cuddy is the major problem in getting these boats to right themselves, so the higher the prow floats, the easier she comes back rightside up.
Fair winds, following seas and a happy Turkey day to you all.
Felix

[Scott]

hello this same type seperation happened to me this weekend can tis repair be done by the do it yourselfer and if so what degree of difficulty might it be also doe anyone have a step by step on how and what to do thanksalot for any help

[Scott]

back again does anyone have pictures of this type of repair thanks again