Installing inspection Ports

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Installing inspection Ports

Postby PDuckX » Wed Nov 17, 2004 6:38 pm

I would like to install a few inspection ports in the fore end of the seats and bow floatation tank and have a simple question. I have never worked with fiberglass before and am curious as to what is the best process for cutting the hole. What is the best cutting tool, is there any prep and/or are there any precautions I can take before diving in?

Thanks
Andy - Former DaySailer Owner
PDuckX
 
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Cutting Holes in fiberglass

Postby SwiftSail » Wed Nov 17, 2004 9:57 pm

Hi Andy,
The best tool for cutting holes in fiberglass is a rotary saw blade. You can buy them for dremel drills or you can buy just that tool. I works great. As long as the blade is sharp it cuts like butter and dosn't shatter the gelcoat.

Steve
DS 307
Santa Rosa, CA
SwiftSail
 

Postby Roger » Thu Nov 18, 2004 2:09 am

Andy, I did exactly those two retrofits on my boat. Check out the last two pictures on page 3 of my website. http://groups.msn.com/RogerConrad/shoebox.msnw?Page=3

I used the inspection port insert to locate and draw the outline of the hole with a fine tipped felt marker, then a dremmel tool to punch holes along the line, and the 'join the dots' to cut out the circle. I next used marine goop to seal the rim to the hole, drilled and bolted the rim with ss bolts, and that was it. There is no solid foam behind the seats, so be prepared to fetch the 'hole' when it falls inside.

Forward of the bulkhead is foam, so if you need to get through to the back of the boweye (about 18 inches forward), you will need to dig a tunnel. But that is another chapter. I have pictures but not on the website. If you need to see them, let me know and I will e-mail them to you.
Roger
 
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Postby Dick Andrews » Sun May 29, 2005 3:13 pm

I made a simple tool to draw a circle using a piece of wood. After locating, the center of my ports drilled a hole in the wood using the same drill that I drilled the center of the hole that I want to cut. My ports are 6" and require a 6and 1/2" hole. On the other end, if the cedar I drilled another hole 3 1/4" from small drilled the diameter of a black paint stick. Push the drill bit in one hole and the black paint stick in the other. Place the drilled hole on the front of the seat, swing it in a circle and you will have a black circle to follow when you cut the hole. You may want to cut a smaller hole and sand the opening to fit your ports. I would measure your port Dia. to be sure what size hole you need.

I removed all the foam from the seat ant that added up to 130#. I pulled the foam through the hole as far as I could reach. I did not want to add a port to the back of the seat. To reach the remaining foam I purchased a 1" wood dowel from Lowes. Drill an oversize hole in one end 3/4" deep and screw a 2" grip rite screw in the hole. With this you can reach in the hole in the front of your seat and stab the slabs of foam and drag the forward until you can reach them and drag the through the hole.
Dick Andrews
 
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quick trick

Postby Roger » Mon May 30, 2005 12:29 am

When cutting out inspection ports, my chandler told me that the cut out hole is always the same size as the screw insert. All you do is remove the lid of the inspection port, and trace around the diameter. I used a felt laundry marker and thinking that my line was too fat cut on the inside of it. It was a very tight fit. (Too tight) Lesson learned for next time... cut outside the line. I also used an electric jigsaw this year when installing inspection ports in order to install a traveler. It was a much neater hole. I used a shop vac to remove the foam chunks after I attacked it with a keyhole saw and chisel.

Image

This inspection port in on the bottom front of the seat about midship. It goes into the space under the seat.
Roger
 
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Postby Dick Andrews » Mon May 30, 2005 10:30 am

I hope that the holes that I cut are not too large. I cut them based on the size information that in the West Marine Catalogue. I do not have my parts yet which is not a good idea.
If you have a hole that is to tight you can use a small sanding in your electic drill to remove a small amount of material until you get a fit.

Did you add a port to the forward tank? I assume that it has wet foam in it also.
What flotation material did you use to replace the old flotation?
Dick Andrews
 
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install of inspection port to forward bulkhead

Postby Roger » Mon May 30, 2005 8:13 pm

Sorry, not sure if you were directing your question to me or the original poster. Ask again if the latter.

I installed a forward bulkhead inspection port a couple of years ago to repair the bow eye. My foam was dry so I just 'dug' a tunnel to the back of the boweye, and left the rest of the foam in place. I did not replace any foam in the tunnel. (I may have to go back in there some day!)
Last edited by Roger on Tue May 31, 2005 12:10 am, edited 1 time in total.
Roger
 
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inspection ports

Postby Dick Andrews » Mon May 30, 2005 9:44 pm

Thanks, I found that my forward tank was dry also.
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