DaySailer.org Forum

Just bought a 1965 DS1. Boat seems to be in overall good shape, but the varnish on the coamings is largely gone. I've removed them, and they seem sound. I have always oiled the teak on my previous boats. I believed it was easier to maintain, just bleach an re-oil once a year, and that was on teak that was always completely exposed to the elements. Any reason not to oil instead of varnish on the DS1?

Dan Sheer, Columbia Md.

Oil is fine for teak but many of the coamings originally supplied were mahogony. Oil would probably work for mahogony but polyurethane would protect the wood better, but then again I am no wood working expert.

Glad I asked. Mahogany would take varnish and explain why no one on the forum talks about oil.

I assumed the coamings were teak, since where the varnish survives, they are a yellow, varnished teak color, even where they were against the side and covered with silicone, and thus not faded. Moreover, the parts where the varnish had worn looked to have a teak like grain. The thwarts, on the other hand do indeed look like mahogany, are dark, and are not peeling, as is common with varnished teak in my experience.

Do you know if any of the '65 vintage boats had original teak coaming? I realize a previous owner might have replaced it anyway. If so, was any of it yellow when varnished? In other words, how can I tell if they are teak - as I suspect - or mahogany?

It would not be surprising they may have been replaced so I would sand and try the oil. Worst thing that will happen is you have to let it dry out then do it with the varnish or polyurethane.

My '60 boat had all Mahagony coamings and thwart/seats. Replaced all with same. Teak bleeds oil naturally and is therefore better oiled. It won't hold varnish long. Mahagany doesn't bleed nearly as much and decent varnish hangs on very well. Mahogany also tools more easily than teak.

I put several coats of marine varnish on the new wood about four years ago, and it's still going strong.

Peter

Thanks to all. I am pretty sure the coamings are indeed teak and the thwarts mahogany. The coamings will be sanded and oiled and the thwarts left alone since the finish is still solid. You will see more questions from me as I work to get the boat up to my specs. I've read many many of the posts and found very good info.

Dan

Dan, You may also want to get in contact with the local Fleet in Annapolis. Contact is Mike Waters (mike@waters.net). The fleet is based at Severn Sailing Association. good Luck. Bob Damon

Bought a 5 yr old boat once, loaded with teak inside and out. Stripped the varnish off the teak and oiled. Boat was on a mooring out in the sun. The oiled teak in the cabin was great, but the sun got to the oil outside and destroyed it, had to re-oil every three weeks. The off shore breeze brougt dust, and the oil attracted the dust, nice mess. If the boat stays covered use oil if you must, but otherwise use any store bought, polyurathane varnish with a "UV" protection in it. Check the lable for it. The "UV" in the modern exterior varnishes acts like the sun screen you put on your face, etc. "Well oiled" may be good for machinery, but a good boat needs "brightwork".

And now for the continuing stoooory. Went to buy some varnish for the comings and thwarts, and I couldn't bring myself to do it. Saw some Decks Olja, which I've used before on teak - actually put a semi-hard finish on it - and succumbed to my perhaps misguided desire to use oil. Or at least almost oil. I will let you all know how it works out at the end of the season. Somebody got to be the guinea pig. Oink!

My '62 (?) Daysailer 1 has mahogany coamings. After stripping them (sanding) I applied teak oil first to penetrate deep into the wood. I mean I just kept applying oil until the wood wouldn't take any more. I then let them dry for a couple of days and then applied 3 coats of Cetol. Seems bomber to me.
I do have a fair amount of woodworking and finishing experience. Doesn't mean I know it all, there are a thousand different ways to accomplish the same thing. UV inhibitors are exceedingly important.
Good luck...

I was asked how to tell mahogany from teak. Here's my answer.

I searched the internet and found that, when sanded bare, mahogany will have a salmon color, and teak will be a very slightly greenish brown. Teak may feel a bit oily to the touch, depending on how far down you take it. FYI, I applied Decks Olya to my mahogany - keeping the surface wet to moist for several hours, but was not fully satisfied. After several days, the wood felt bone dry. In addition, simply oiling the sanded mahogany did not remove all the grey - that being the major problem. I haven't given up on oil, though. Next I will try a teak cleaner, and then re-oil with teak oil. If that doesn't work, I'll stain the wood and varnish over it. Or maybe Cetol, whatever that is.

I have found oiling exterior teak on my "big boat" was unsatisfactory. The UV rays very quickly turned the oiled wood black and ugly. I have had great success cleaning and oiling interior teak on previous boats. The two best options in my opinion are either let the exterior teak go a natural gray, or varnish with a UV inhibiting finish that needs to be redone at least once a season. I have no experience with Mahogany, but I know that any oil finish applied to exterior teak is a total waste of time,

Yep. When I mentioned before that teak would be "better oiled", I was comparing to varnishing. Unfinished teak is incredibly durable, and with some periodic cleaning, it will go into the next millenium--or at least twenty years--after which point new teak will dry out and oiling will be necessary.

Per the muppets, here is the continuing stoooory of GUINEA PIGS IN SPACE!!

Used a teak cleaned, then sanded per instructions, and applied Cetol per yogi's comment. Wunnerful stuff it is too. Covered the grey, nice satin finish, easy to apply without bubbles or drips. I'm done (with the wood anyway). Maybe two more days of work before I can finally sail this thing. Took nearly 5 hours to drill out the bolt that was broken off in the centerboard mounting plate. Stainless steel is hard stuff. Rethreaded the hole with the Lok-Tite product designed to restore threads. That was easy to use. Since it was the middle hole, the one with the cam on it, I'm hoping there won't be too much strain.

Thanks to all for the help and advice.

Dan