DS1 rub rail repair

[djd]

(I originally posted this in the DS1 section and didn't get any response. I'm new to this group and perhaps this repair section would draw more response so here goes...)

I'm working on a Daysailer I (Hull No 18168, Class No 3320). There is some hull damage on the starboard rub rail, near the transom. Looks like it must have banged up against a dock or piling and broke off the rub rail mounting flange. (The lip that sticks out where the hull and the top side meet.) Someone made a rough repair long ago, but it is breaking away.

I removed the white rubber rail cover and under it is a grey, PVC strip that is stapled to the broken flange. Looks like the flange is actually in two pieces - one from the hull and one from the deck. Has anyone done this repair before?

Any help would be appreciated!
Thank you,
Dennis

[Peter McMinn]

I replaced the rubrail on 568 about four years ago. Found DR marine had all the right stuff. Order their catalog and in it you'll find a page with end demensions at actual size. you simply cut off a little piece of your old rail and line it up with the right one and order it!

The internal pvc strips you noticed are necessary for proper installation. To save money, I ordered just the amount needed for the critical places (hiking rail, transom, etc.). So far, I havn't had any problems with it loosening.

While you're installing the mounting strips, have the rubber rail heating up in the sun (shouldn't be too hard right about now). This makes it all the easier to get the rail on. I secured the rail with two stainless through-bolts at the end of the seam on the transom. Then I worked forward around the boat, stretching the rail as I went to assure a snug fit (this is where its very helpful to have the rubber nice and warm). When I reached the other end of the seam at the transom, I secured it with two more bolts (use washers on both sides to avoid stress tears.

Once the rail was in place, I added stainless rivits/washers to areas I thought needed more of a bond to the boat. You may not need to do that, depending on how well you can stretch the product. You also may need to make some carrot cuts at the bow and aft corners to keep the stuff from buckling.

Whoa. didn't think I had this much to say. But there it is.

[djd]

Thank you very much Peter for the detailed reply. I have looked at DR and others and will be ordering soon. My biggest chore will be repairing the fiberglass so I have something to hang the rub rail on.
Thanks again!
Dennis

[MrPlywood]

djd, once you go through the repair would you mind posting your process and results? I have just bought boat #847, which has two cracks in the same area, one on each side. I was thinking that a repair from below would help stabilize the area, but I think that it's always going to be a weak spot.

[djd]

I've finished the major fiberglass repair. Now I'm on to sanding and painting.... Lots of work ahead yet, but the flange repair came out pretty good.

I took lots of pictures of the process and would be glad to show you what I did. However, I don't know how to post pictures to this great web sight! I'll try to figure out how to do it. I'm sure there are instructions around here somewhere...

Dennis

[rossinvrland]

DJD,
Just a friendly reminder to please post your pictures. I'll have this repair to do in the next year or two. So it would be great to have you share your results!
FYI...There is a forum called Website Info. Within that, there's a sticky post that tells you how to put pictures on this great site.
Ross

[djd]

Still learning how to reduce the original picture file size and resolution...
Here is a before and an after picture. I will try to post some of the "in between" pictures to my album.

Dennis

[Peter McMinn]

Sweet work, Dennis! When you said you had nothing to hang the rubrail on, you wern't kidding. Would love to see the in-between shots with discriptions.

[Kevin F]

Dennis,

You do some real good looking glass work considering your starting point. I have boat 3451 and were wondering since your class number was close to mine what "year" your boat is. Mine was titled in PA as a 1973 which is impossible and I have been "researching" the possible production year. I think we are about a 1969 or 70. What do you say?


Kevin

[djd]

Kevin,
Thank you!
Our boat was purchased from someone in New York. I don't know if this was the original owner.

I've read that hull number 3235 was built in 1966 and 3782 was from 1969, so we fit in between there somewhere. I'd guess 1966 or 1967 for mine and yours maybe 1967 or 1968??? Just a guess...
Dennis