rivet removal

[thomas]

I'm currently revitalzing my mast and find I need to remove rivets to renew fittings etc. I'm finding them diffcult to remove. Any help with ideas or procedures greatly appreciated.
thomas

[sunapeesailor]

Hi Thomas -
Had to put a new gooseneck on my boom last year and the easiest method for me to get the rivets out was to carefully drill them out and collapse the remaining material.
Hope this helps.

[thomas]

thanks sunapee, was hopeing for something even easier, as drilling these out is not easy. ok, and thanks for your reply!
thomas

[calden]

Thomas:

I've done lots of mods on my two boats and found that drilling out rivets is generally pretty easy. For the most part the rivets are aluminum. You might be encountering stainless steel rivets, which would indeed be tough. In that case, go out and buy a new drill meant for steel.

Another way to deal with rivets is to use a small chisel and shave off the head. The remaining rivet is easy to push inside where it drops down in to the mast black hole, never to be seen again.

IN fact, sometimes, even after having drilled out a rivet, I'll find that the flattened surface ring remains and I'll have to chisel that off as well.

Carlos

[thomas]

Calden, yes I think you are correct, must be SS because it's so hard- hence the post. Thanks for the light bulb. Chiseling sounds a little dangerous , too easy to damage either mast or fitting. Guess I'll look into super duper drill bits with titanium or something...anyone know what need? thomas
DS #766

[Roger]

(Not sure why, but I read that somewhere that milk is a better lubricant for titanium bits on ss material)

[adam aunins]

I've found that with drill bits you will usaully get what you pay for so don't buy the cheapest, even more important when drilling metal. P.S. Make sure it's for drilling metal.

[jpclowes]

I was told by one of the old salts at my club that it really doesn't matter what you use to lubricate the bit, just that you do it often enough. High heat is what kills the bit, dipping it in some fluid (even water) will do the trick. Also just take it slow, and be patient. If you spin the bit at too high a speed it will wear down faster than the metal you are trying to drill and become useless.

[Felix Graham-Jones]

Please note that the "milk" discussed above is NOT cow juice - it is an oil/water emulsion that is used in machine shops to provide both oil's lubricity and water's cooling properties whilst working metals.
The poster who said an old salt told him pretty much anything will work as a lubricant/coolant has it about right, if you are only trying to take out a pop-rivet. Slow speed + frequent lubrication = low bit temp = prolonged bit effectiveness.
Fair winds, y'all

[calden]

Thomas:

It's really easy to use a small chisel on a rivet head. Because the mast is curved, you can angle under the head and lift up the edge to get a good attack on it, all done hardly touching the aluminum of the mast. If you do it carefully, the worst you'll see is a tiny scratch or little mark that is hardly of significance. Besides, if you're putting on new fittings in the same place, those tiny marks would be covered up by the new rivet head.

Yeah, sounds like stainless. These other suggestions about lubricating sound great. Definitely buy a made-for-steel bit. It'll be a bit more expensive but think of the money you'll save from NOT burning out your drill.

Carlos

[thomas]

thanks to everyone for responding to my initial thread. lots of great information. thanks
thomas

[thomas]

just thought I'd mention...I used a combination of most suggestions in the thread, ie: chisel, titanium bits, but no "milk", it wasn't necessary. I only broke one bit! the bare mast is polishing up like new (or better, with some "patina"). thanks again to all who weighed in.
thomas