Restoring wood trim...and adding a bit more

[Peterw11]

After first being a bit put off by the amount, and the condition of, the brightwork on my DS1, I've decided I really like it, and in fact, would like to add a bit more.

The coamings look they've never been attended to since the boat was built 40 years ago, and whatever finish they had was removed when I powerwashed it before I put it in the water this past spring.

Fortunately, those pieces are still in pretty good shape, and I plan to refinish them this winter, once I decide which product to use. I'm going for the harder, high gloss look you see on newer boats, and they're seems to be a number of ways to achieve this. From what I can gather, epoxy, followed by a UV protectant varnish is the way to go.

Question #1:
It's my understanding that the older DS1's had teak coamings and thwarts, and the floorboards were mahogany. Am I correct on this?
How do you tell the difference?

Question #2:
Does anybody have a product recommendation that will give me the finish I'm looking for?

As far as adding additional trim, I've purchased the teak handrails from D&R for the top of the cuddy. I've seen them installed on another DS and they look pretty nice...pretty nautical-ly, as it were.

I'm also planning on adding a bullnose trim on the trailing edge of the cuddy to cover what always looked (to me) like an unfinished section of the boat. It'll follow the top edge, and curve down to meet the coamings on either side.

I've seen pictures of a similar modification (maybe on this site, I can't remember) and it adds nicely to the look of the vessel.

The final addition will be a 2' long cap along the top of the CB trunk to add that extra bit of custom look, and also to give me a platform to mount my new jib cleats. There's a boatbuilder/cabinet shop near here that can make the pieces for me at a reasonable price.

I'd love to give the whole boat a new paint job in dark blue (to replace the factory light blue) but time and available work space may not allow that this winter.

With it's original white deck color, and a white waterline stripe, it'd be the bees knees on the lake next summer.

[MrPlywood]

This subject was discussed in this thread:

http://forum.daysailer.org/forum/viewtopic.ph ... highlight=

I used InterLux Goldspar and went by the varnishing schedule you can find here - http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/41.htm

Everything I worked on is still looking good, including the floorboards which occasionally sit in water if I haven't been able to get up to the lake and bail.

Greenlake went the epoxy route, and sounds like he's quite happy with the results so far.

[GreenLake]

Correct, mine still looks like new after the first season. I've also seen no dings (which I would get after PU-only coating, because the PU would crack if struck).

But I would be remiss if I didn't mention that I have a friend who's used Bristol Finish for the decks of his all-plywood dinghy and is very happy with that approach. (Unfortunately , like my case, the boat is very well covered between uses and therefore none of us have reliable first-hand indications of how protective these coatings are with more exposure - in both cases, the literature promises good to excellent durability).

The difference is that his approach uses only one product, and one that, I believe, only comes in a deep gloss. That's a look I don't like particularly, so I used a semi-gloss PU lacquer for the final coats (System Three). Although, of course, a glossy version is available as well.

[algonquin]

Peterw11 - I love the idea of adding additional bright work to the DS. I have started on mine and will be adding quite a bit as the lines of the DS are screaming for a more salty look. I have already finished a custom bow sprit with an eagles head carving under it. Will be adding an aft deck taffrail and some partial rear side rails supported on short stubby spindles (similar to a Venture Newport 23 I used to own). Plan to also add woodwork to the cuddy and on the front bulkhead. Plus a few other areas as my table saw dictates.

I will be customizing some other parts also. I don’t use my DS for any sanctioned racing. Just cruising. Brad

[navahoIII]

Peter,

Our DSI is circa 1961 and the coaming and floorboards are mahogany.

I also like the idea of adding teak handrails. How many "grabs" will yours have? I think two on each rail is about right to keep it in scale. What do you think?

[Peterw11]

I'm using the "2 grab" teak rails from Rudy at D&R.

They're reasonably priced at $84.00/pr. and are designed for the Pearson 26. I've already got them, they seem well made and have a slight angle to the base to match the shape of the DS cuddy.

They also aren't pre drilled so I can engineer my own fastening system.
I'm planning to through bolt with SS screws into a chainplate under the cuddy top for maximum strength.

They're listed here:
http://www.drmarine.com/products.asp?cat=437

[GreenLake]

My, probably '63, DS I has mahagoni coamings and thwarts (they look pink when freshly sanded and darken with light) and some other variety for the floor boards (the wood looks a bit more yellowish than that for the coamings).

[navahoIII]

Peter,

Will you use two chainplates to extend the entire length of the rails or will you have six smaller ones, one for each hole? Also, where can you get them?

[navahoIII]

http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse. ... 2,405.html

Peter,

Check out the prices at Hamilton Marine for handrails!

[Peterw11]

NavahoIII

I plan to use a single strip of aluminum or stainless (if I can find it) on each side, with acorn nuts to prevent injury should anyone whack their heads on the screw ends while under the cuddy. Aluminum strip in various thicknesses is easy to find at most hardware stores. A strip of thin teak or mahogany will also do the trick.

Large fender washers will work, but they're impossible to find in stainless, and a single strip the length of the railing will spread the load better and prevent damage to the fiberglass.

Although essentially a decorative piece, you never know when someone might grab onto it with more force than planned. This is the same reason I'll drill through and use long screws, rather than the simpler and much weaker route of using wood screws inserted from the underneath.

[Peterw11]

I just checked the pricing on the Hamilton site.

Yikes!!.. What a difference!!

Too bad I already bought them. Oh well, live and learn.

I noticed they also have the stainless fender washers I mentioned as impossible to find in my previous post.

They seem to be great resource and you can bet I've bookmarked the site.

Thanks so much for posting it.

[navahoIII]

Peter,

Sounds like a good plan. Where did you find the washers at Hamilton?

[Peterw11]

Right here, under fasteners.

http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse. ... 2,930.html

I still think the strips would be stronger.