Main sheet fouling on my motor...

[K.C. Walker]

So, I switched my main sheeting system to an end boom bridal this year, which I like WAY better than the mid-boom set up I had. It's night and day as far as sail control goes. However, the downside is that it occasionally fouls on my motor or the docking cleats. This can be particularly distressing in high wind conditions. So, I solved the docking cleats problem by using some shock cord over the top of my mooring lines to fill up the cleats and that seems to work. Now I'm thinking about a cover/tent for the motor.

This cover for the motor I'm thinking I could get a canvas shop to make something that I could snap to the rear deck. I suppose it's possible that Velcro would work for fastening it down. Anybody have any thoughts on this?

KC

[jdubes]

Hey K.C, is this what your talking about.

http://daysailer.org/forum/album_pic.php?pic_id=99

I can definitely see the benefits. I would run the adjustment line along the coamings to where i'm sitting to make this usable.

[GreenLake]

I've found my mainsheet occasionally fouls on the rubrail. Usually downwind when I've not pulled in enough of the sheet before starting the jibe.

Regarding a cover for the motor - what about a picture of your motor in its postion while sailing, so we can visualize this better.

[K.C. Walker]

Jason,

Yes, that is basically the setup that I'm using except that I don't have the traveler part. After corresponding with Phill and reading his posts, his opinion is that there's very little advantage to making it an adjustable traveler. Dave Keran came to the same conclusion and his is a fixed bridle. Part of the formula is using a powerful vang of somewhere around 20:1, this pretty much eliminates the need for a traveler.

KC

[K.C. Walker]

Green Lake,

Just in envision a 1970s Johnson with handles and levers and in particular a choke knob that seem to like to grab the sheet. I definitely have less trouble if I trim the sheet as I come around for the jibe and it would help if I had a third hand, as well.

KC

[GreenLake]

[Phil's] opinion is that there's very little advantage to making it an adjustable traveler. Dave Keran came to the same conclusion and his is a fixed bridle.

If fixed, what are your dimensions? (I think these would have to be in relation to the height and length of the boom as well as I think those dimensions can differ a bit between boats.)

[GreenLake]

Just in envision a 1970s Johnson with handles and levers and in particular a choke knob that seem to like to grab the sheet. I definitely have less trouble if I trim the sheet as I come around for the jibe and it would help if I had a third hand, as well.

I use a MinnKota (would love to be able to afford a Torqeedo ) and when that one is tilted up, it's flat, with the control head and tiller sticking about 8"-12" inboard from the bridle. That reduces the snagging.

If the top of your motor isn't smooth, then your idea or a canvas cover would work. If you don't care about looks you could make it a flat sheet of canvas with four bungee cord eyes at the corners that you tie to four existing or purpose-built supports. I picture it covering your entire rear deck, with holes or slits for your bridle. that would give the mainsheet a smooth surface, although it would have some "lumps" where it drapes over the motor.

This kind of design would have the advantage of simplicity, both in construction and in rigging it.

Was that what you were thinking of?

[K.C. Walker]

Green Lake,

The height of the bridal needs to be tweaked for each boat and sail set up. Mine is about 15 inches off the deck to the apex of the triangle. The concept is: if your leech is too tight when close hauled, you want a higher triangle and if the sail has too much twist you want to lower the triangle. Also, with vang sheeting controlling the leech tension you can have the triangle pretty high and the sheet acts more as a traveler. Mike Gillum uses a snipe style split end sheet which effectively makes the triangle apex at the boom. However, then he can add additional tension and the split tail pulls through the end boom block and tightens the leech.

KC

[K.C. Walker]

Green Lake,

Yes, a simple setup and easy to rig is what I have in mind. Though, I think I would just keep it to over the motor head and not quite half the deck. It never fouls on the inside so I guess I could go vertical and then have the pitch of the tent go off towards the rail. I was thinking that something like a 60° pitch might be enough to keep it from snagging.

KC

[Bob Hunkins]

My mid boom is the only way I'd ever go. There's less bending in the boom which is faster, and I find it doesn't get in the way while driving. I've found the mid boom give better control over the sail. Less need to vang sheet.

[algonquin]

I agree with Bob on this. I have had both setups on previous boats. My DSI is currently equipped with end boom sheeting and it seems to foul at the most inopportune times. I plan to go to a mid boom setup this winter. Brad

[K.C. Walker]

Bob, well I certainly agree with the mid-boom sheeting not getting in the way while driving or in general it doesn't get in the way as much. And, I far preferred for jibing.

So, do you use a traveler, as well? My problem with my previous fixed midboom setup was that I felt like I was not able to get enough sail twist when I wanted it. I didn't really want to have a traveler through the middle of the cockpit so that's why I am trying the end boom bridal this year. Interesting that you say there is less boom bend, I would've thought there would be more.

The Melges 17 has a mid-boom fixed bridal that got me thinking about other ways to rig a mid-boom set up. I think they have a much lower boom than we do so I didn't think it would work as well on a DS.

KC