mainsail bungee

[jdoorly]

I wasn't happy with tying down the mainsail with individual bungees. Bungees aren't adjustable so they are too loose or too tight, and I hate bungees cause they catch on themselves and everything else. I came up with a tiedown system that I like, it holds well and is fast and easy to use.
[thumb=900]
A single long bungee is hooked to the end of the boom, and to a bail on the mast just above boom level. About 3 feet aft of the bail attachment is a third hook which I also attach to the bail to take up slack in the bungee when not in use. After the mainsail is furled and starting at the aft end of the boom I reach under the boom and grab the bungee, then pull it over the boom until I can get it hooked on a cleat. Then I do that 4 more times. The system would work just as well with only 3 cleats

[algonquin]

A nice simple approach to the problem. How long is the bungee before being stretched ? Brad

[ctenidae]

I like it. I use bungee tie downs that are a loop with a ball on the end. Work pretty well, but if you've got one stretched out and the ball slips out of your hand, it can be quite painful to certain, shall we say, delicate areas.

I'd be interested in hearing your method for gathering your sail so neatly. That's pretty impressive.

[GreenLake]

I'd be curious, too.

I don't use bungees, but a single line with a chained hitch that can be tied without threading the entire length of the line through each time, so it's almost as quick as the bungee solution.

[thumb=714]

I don't leave my boat in the water, or the boom on the mast when trailering, so I don't need to tie up my sails more often than about once a year.

[jdoorly]

Hi Brad, the bungee is 12 ft overall which gives adequate tension when furling, and the closed hook at 9 ft keeps it taught enough not to droop below the boom when not in use.

I think the furling method is called 'skinning the bunt'. I tried to do the opposite direction for a couple months and the sail got furled but I didn't like the way the sail, and especially the vinyl window got wrinkled. The first time and each time since I changed the side of the 'shelf' it furled tight and smooth including the window. Whether or not it is necessary to 'train' the sail and then switch I don't know, but that's how they put the tight coil in phone cords (remember them?). Please forgive the many fuzzy faults of the drawing but it saved a lot of blah blah. Click the pic for more blah.
[thumb=901]
Some people say that the flaking at the mast should be all on one side of the slides (when skinning the bunt), I say it doesn't seem to matter, I flake alternating to port, to starboard, etc. I also spend a good amount of time pulling the leech aft. It's a new Intensity main, very resinated and stiff, unlike it's predecessor. I installed the slides/slugs on the mainsail, (and removed the hanks from the Intensity jib to put it on a furler.)

[William]

is your boom equipped with a topping lift to hold it up while you furl the mainsail?

[jdoorly]

Nope.
[thumb=891]
When I got the boat last Spring I drilled a hole just above the aft sheave in the masthead and strung a 1/8" line to the back of the boom with a rolling hitch for an adjustable topping lift. It worked OK but I'd heard many good things about boom gallows's and wanted to try one, and they were right! The one in the picture is Rev. B and its much stronger than my first try. The uprights are 1.5"x1.5" oak and the gallows is mahogany.
[thumb=902]
This second pic is my anchor rode spool but I include it here because it shows where the strength for the gallows comes from. This is actually a temporary setup as this winter I plan on making some major changes to the cockpit.