Outboard Motors

For issues common to different models of DaySailer.
Except Rigging and Sails.

Moderator: GreenLake

Outboard Motors

Postby Skippa » Sat Nov 20, 2010 6:25 pm

Now that the boat is in storage, I am looking at my "To Do" list. There is a 2.5 hp outboard for sale near me at a fair price. My concern is the 15 inch shaft length. Without the opportunity for sea trials until spring I am putting this upgrade on hold. Unless !
Does any one have any experience they would like to share in regard to the small portable outboards on the market. Suzuki and Mercury are both available with 15 in shaft length.
Boat is DS11
Thanks in advance.
Kevin
Skippa
 
Posts: 105
Joined: Fri Jun 11, 2010 10:49 pm
Location: Eagan Mn

Postby jdubes » Sun Nov 21, 2010 8:11 am

jdubes
 
Posts: 157
Joined: Tue Mar 10, 2009 7:51 pm
Location: Rochester MA

motor

Postby kokko » Sun Nov 21, 2010 9:50 am

If your question is shaft length, the stand shaft is fine. I have a Honda 2hp standard
DS1 Truelove
kokko
 
Posts: 469
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 4:17 pm
Location: St. Paul, MN

Postby kkearns » Sun Nov 21, 2010 6:25 pm

I have a standard shaft Mariner 2.5 that works fine. If I have too much weight forward, the prop comes a little too close to the surface, but if I keep most of the weight aft, it is fine.

Kevin
kkearns
 
Posts: 55
Joined: Sat May 16, 2009 1:46 pm

Postby Skippa » Sun Nov 21, 2010 8:25 pm

Thanks to all, Good information as usuall.
Kevin
Skippa
 
Posts: 105
Joined: Fri Jun 11, 2010 10:49 pm
Location: Eagan Mn

Postby Peterw11 » Sun Nov 21, 2010 10:04 pm

I've got an old Evinrude 4hp longshaft, which works great on the rare occasions I've needed it. IIRC, the shaft length is about 22 ".

But given the low freeboard on the stern of the DS (not much different from your average fishing skiff) I'd say the standard shaft should work fine.

The only time you'll notice any difference is in real choppy seas, if you ever encounter them (I've yet to, myself).

If it's a good deal, go for it.
Peterw11
 
Posts: 155
Joined: Wed May 06, 2009 12:02 am
Location: Central Mass

Postby GreenLake » Mon Nov 22, 2010 4:23 am

I use a trolling motor with adjustable shaft (max 30" +). I find that I usually extend it almost all the way down.

Now, obviously, I'm a bit underpowered, so keeping weight aft is counterproductive (sagging transom). But even so, the shallower settings don't seem right.
~ green ~ lake ~ ~
GreenLake
 
Posts: 7146
Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2007 3:54 am

Postby K.C. Walker » Mon Nov 22, 2010 9:36 am

I have an old 4 hp Johnson long shaft. These old 2 cylinder motors, also the Evinrude like Peter's, run relatively quiet and smooth. They don't have any kind of transmission so there is no neutral which takes a bit of getting used to. They weigh about the same amount, 27 pounds, as the Honda 2 hp.

After 37 years the motor still runs fine and starts easily. It has reserve power even after all these years. The parts are still available and if you don't mind tinkering with motors occasionally I think they're worth seeking out. Unfortunately, there is no modern equivalent to these motors.

I like having the long shaft but I think you could get by with a short shaft. Theoretically the transom is right for the short shaft. However, with a sailboat and having the motor on one side of the transom sometimes one lifts the transom more than you would with a skiff. With the long shaft I never get cavitation. I can easily walk around my boat with the motor in operation and do so regularly. I almost always set my sails and take down my sails while motoring.

KC
KC Walker, DS 1 #7002
K.C. Walker
 
Posts: 1335
Joined: Sun Jul 06, 2008 10:50 pm
Location: North Stonington, Connecticut

Outboard Motors

Postby ChrisB » Mon Nov 22, 2010 12:37 pm

I have a standard shaft, 3.5 hp Nissan 2 cycle. If I had bought the motor new, I would have opted for the long shaft but buying used limits your options. Overall, the standard shaft works fine. If you find a std shaft motor at a decent price, go for it.
Chris B.
ChrisB
 
Posts: 345
Joined: Sun Aug 02, 2009 8:42 am
Location: Melbourne, Florida

Postby seandwyer » Mon Nov 22, 2010 12:40 pm

I have a short shafted motor as well and although it allegedly is suited to the hull of the DS - I as others have already stated concur that placing the motor off center as one must do with a sailboat enables the prop to come out of the water occasionally (and grumble really loudly at that) when you turn too sharply or place too much weight in the direction of the bow. I have a motor mount for mine and have been thinking about altering it a bit so as to place the prop a couple of inched deeper into the drink - but most of the time it works fine. If I were you and the price was really attractive, I'd snap the short shaft up before someone else does. It will work just fine as long as you can deal with babying it a little on the turns etc.

One other thing though - I think KC makes a valid point. My engine is a Mercury 3.3 single cylinder and it drives me crazy - so damn loud!! If you can find one that purrs you might be a lot happier - and two cylinders does that I believe.
Sean
DS1 - 3203
seandwyer
 
Posts: 362
Joined: Thu Feb 05, 2009 6:24 pm
Location: Ohio

outboard motors

Postby ChrisB » Mon Nov 22, 2010 12:55 pm

Everything is relative regarding noise. Before I had the 3.5 hp Nissan, I had a 1.5 hp Cruise-N-Carry......10,000 rpm at full throttle! It made a terrible racket and would shake the fillings out of your teeth. By comparison, the Nissan is a delight.
Chris B.
ChrisB
 
Posts: 345
Joined: Sun Aug 02, 2009 8:42 am
Location: Melbourne, Florida

Postby K.C. Walker » Mon Nov 22, 2010 3:47 pm

Chris makes a good point. I think having enough horsepower so that you don't have to run it wide-open certainly does make it run quieter, with 4 hp I hardly ever have to throttle it up more than halfway and that gets me pretty close to hull speed.
KC Walker, DS 1 #7002
K.C. Walker
 
Posts: 1335
Joined: Sun Jul 06, 2008 10:50 pm
Location: North Stonington, Connecticut

Postby algonquin » Tue Nov 23, 2010 5:07 pm

I use a standard shaft 1969 3.5hp Clinton on my DSI. I believe it is the same engine that Sears sold as the Game Fisher 3.5. My mount is fixed but the engine tilts so the prop is not in the water when sailing. Gas tank is integrated in the engine cowl. I carry only a gallon of additional fuel.

This engine can run all day in rough conditions using very little fuel. Reverse is accomplished by spinning the engine 180 degrees. Pushes my DS with no effort. Haven’t had any issues with cavitation. Idles low and noise hasn't been a factor.

Many of the 40s, 50s, and 60s small HP engines were light and durable and remain dependable to this day. Look for them at yard sales and in the classifieds. Usually priced pretty reasonable and will look great on a vintage DS1. I picked mine up for $35. Brad
"Feather" DS1 #818
algonquin
 
Posts: 475
Joined: Sun Sep 30, 2007 9:16 pm
Location: Maine Highlands - Grand Lakes Region

Small Outboard

Postby Skippa » Mon May 02, 2011 9:52 pm

Just as an update (and a chance to strut) I found an used outboard that I am pretty excited about. 1975, Johnson, 2HP, longshaft. $250.00. It looks brand new and in a week I will have a chance for sea trails with it.
Thanks to all for the advice on this subject. I am sure I will be back for more. That is, if the weather ever warms up around here !
Kevin
Skippa
 
Posts: 105
Joined: Fri Jun 11, 2010 10:49 pm
Location: Eagan Mn

Re: Outboard Motors

Postby TIM WEBB » Tue Nov 12, 2013 4:04 pm

Well, I finally bit the bullet and bought an outboard. Now that I'm doing more saltwater/open water/longer cruises, the ol' 45 lb troller just wasn't cuttin' it any longer. It's a freshwater motor anyways, and it's life expectancy in saltwater was not very long.

Found a pretty clean 2005 Honda 2 hp on craigslist. Air cooled, 4-stroke, 360 degree swivel, throttle grip, centrifugal clutch, and pretty lightweight at about 21 lbs. Came with a stand, and just had the carb serviced as well. Starts and runs like a dream!

The Red Witch has a peculiar motor bracket on the transom, I believe since new, since the lower mounting bolt is under the port seat, and there are no access ports back there. I've been trying to find one of the corresponding mounts that would attach to it, but no joy, so I knocked together a homemade one:

1696

1/2" galvanized carriage bolts/washers/lock washers/nuts, aluminum box extrusion/flats, and PVC board. The spacers on the right are neccesary because the threads on the bolts don't go all the way to the heads. Motor is standard shaft length, but cavitation plate/prop are well below the water's surface with the motor on this mount. Tried it out on Sunday, and it was pushing TRW along at about 5.5 kts wide open. 3 kts was about the best I ever got w/ the troller ...
Tim Webb
1979 DS2 10099 The Red Witch
(I used to be Her "staff", in the way dogs have owners and cats have staff, but alas no longer ... <pout>)
TIM WEBB
 
Posts: 1208
Joined: Wed May 18, 2005 10:28 pm
Location: RIVERSIDE, CA

Next

Return to Repair and Improvement

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Majestic-12 [Bot] and 18 guests