three-strand splicing?

[GreenLake]

@NavahoIII

There are a number of other splices, and with modern rope, even the same eye-splice will be different for each type.

If you have fun with this kind of stuff, don't hesitate to try splices in double braid or single braid rope. The easiest splice I've encountered so far, was for some of the "exotic" high strength stuff (AmSteel is the name of the rope, Dyneema, the name of the fiber, if I got that right).

The best source for an introduction to splicing modern ropeis "The Splicing Book" by Barbara Merry, which has recently been updated and is quite inexpensive.

Splicing is not as open and complicated s subject as knots, for example, but, because there are so many types of rope nowadays, I find that even after some practice I need a reference to remind me of the specific steps.

For that, my preference is the splicing instructions booklet from Samson ropes, it used to be available printed with nice spiral binding, but it's no longer available.

The good news is that the contents exists as downloadable PDF filesfrom their site. They very systematically cover all the different types of rope and tell you which version of a splice applies to which type, but it helps if you understand the concepts of modern splices.

Enjoy!

[navahoIII]

Now, that there are correct splices on each end of the pennant, should the necks be whipped-stiched (especially the one with a thimble)? What sort of thread is used?

[GreenLake]

I just went to my local place and got some prewaxed stuff. Can't really recall what it was called, because it was many years ago (and the spool will last me about three lifetimes). "Yarn" seems to have been part of the name.

I've not seen the need to whip any of the eyes I put into three-strand, but, caveat, I use all of those lines only for short tem uses.

For eyesplices in halyards (braided line) and dyneema (hollow braid and very slippery) I've stitched the splice (just to guard against it coming apart when not loaded) and whipped the neck.

I havenät bothered with the more complicated whippings, so I essentially just uses tight wraps. Those seem to hold up fine under the conditions.

To secure the ends, I've used the method where you start by laying down a bight of yarn and then wrap over it, stick the end trhough the bight and pull the other end to bury both ends underneath the wrapping. If you know that method you might recognize it from my poor attempt at describing it, if not, just use any method that looks good to you.

There are a number of whippings where the yarn is knotted at every turn, I've always disliked the little rigdes that are formed by that technique.

[jdoorly]

I've been sewing reinforcement patches on my old cut down jib with FSE Robline Whipping Twine 05 (the 05 means 0.5 mm or 0.002 inch). This size is a bit large for the job but it is the smallest that I have found (West Marine). The thread already on the sail is probably 02 or 03, a bit larger than standard clothing thread. They have larger sizes which would be good for seizing rope ends and splices. The larger sizes are usually made by wrapping multiple pieces of smaller thread and can be unwrapped to make thinner twine. Twine comes in waxed and unwaxed (the wax helps protect the thread from weather and wear), and round and flat profile (The flat conforms better but I think the round is stronger). I would use 10 (1mm) for seizing. There are other numbers used to describe thread size which I don't yet understand, good luck...

[navahoIII]

Hi, again.

I did buy some waxed sail twine and managed to seize the thimble end (which had just a bit too much 'play' in it). I used the method you mentioned (starting at the thimble end and working up the line), GreenLake, of putting the end of the line through a prelaid loop and pulling the other end to tuck the first end under the loops of twine. Nice! And, the thimble is much more firmly held.

Thanks, again!

[GreenLake]

Cool. Glad you were able to make sense of my shorthand description.