bottom paint and waterline stripe

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bottom paint and waterline stripe

Postby Guest » Thu Feb 01, 2001 12:47 pm

I'm planning on keeping my DSI docked this year instead of dry sailing. I'll need to have the bottom painted before putting the boat in the water for the season. My boat doesn't have a waterline stripe, however, so I'm not certain exactly how much of the bottom will need to be painted. Does anyone have any measurements they can share for location of the waterline stripe?

Vince (vincent.demperio-at-bms.com)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Sun Feb 04, 2001 11:57 pm

http://www.wessex-resins.com/home.html
The above link has an article selling Copper Bot 2000 which sounds like the last word in anti-foul paint.

MAKurtis (Emak41-at-excite.com)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Mon Feb 05, 2001 12:04 am

Hi, back again. My boat too has a boot top painted on and I'm thinking that most beach sailed boats don't sport one. Nothing listed under specs at the home page under manual, either. So I went to THE source... Grandpa! As it turns out, he painted the one on Oh-whata-Day. So I asked him for the "formula" and he said: "Float it, jump in and mark it with a greas pencil!" "Oh.", I said. That's what I get for being younger. When will I catch up?

MAKurtis (Emak41-at-excite.com)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Mon Feb 05, 2001 12:25 pm

Mark, I used that technique on a couple of radio-control sailboat models.....worked fine!
The previous owner of my DS II painted the bottom when he bought the boat, to this day I still don't know how he figured out just where to paint up to. Unless the original owner had left the boat in the water enough to leave a faint "scum-line" around the boat. The original owner kept the boat on a trailer (I think), I do know that he did not have paint on the bottom. He lived near Plymouth, Ma.

Rod Johnson (rjohnson24-at-juno.com)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Mon Feb 05, 2001 12:43 pm

Thanks for the suggestion. I read of this approach being used in the book "This Old Boat." Unfortunately, the lake I sail on is one of the most polluted lakes in the country (mercury, PCB's, etc). Swimming is not recommended and I was hoping to avoid getting in the water to mark the waterline location. If you attempt this from the boat, your weight causes the boat to heel as you are hanging over the side trying to mark the waterline.

If worse comes to worse, I'll have to wait until the weather improves (I live in upstate New York) and trailer the boat to another lake, launch it, get in the water to mark the stripe, and then get the bottom painted.

If anyone can help me out with a measured location, I'd really appreciate it. I'd like to hit the ground running (and the water sailing) as soon as the marina opens in the spring.

Vince

Vince (vincent.demperio-at-bms.com)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Mon Feb 05, 2001 9:52 pm

...and then I recv'd. this via an alt. e-mail:

MAK,

Regarding the bottom paint comments for the fellow looking to apply bottom
paint for the first time, he will likely have to start by etching the
fiberglass in the area where the bottom paint is to be applied. This etching
can be done by sanding (AKA: scoring) or sometimes by chemical. Then a
primer is usually applied. Then onto the expensive stuff, the bottom paint.
Heck, it's all expensive.

I've found that Petit Trinidad 75 has the highest anti-fouling abilities
available. Their green color paint in particular is the highest rated at
about 74.8% of cuprous oxide. You can find it for about $99.00 a gallon.
Yes, Interlux Bottom Kote is about 40-50% less, but you'll make up the cost
in keeping the bottom clean.

I have used many many bottom paints over the years and can attest to the
abilities of Petit Trinidad to kill whatever tries to live on it in both
fresh water and salt water conditions. I have simply found it to be the best
for a bottom that stays in the water until it is time to be pulled out at the
end of the year.

However, I believe there is a more important issue than effectiveness. What
is the circumstances under the bottom will be used. Is the boat to be
immersed for the season or will it be trailer occasionally to different lakes
and there-by be left out of the water for periods of time. Many bottom
paints will loss some or all of their abilities when they are pulled out of
the water and allowed to dry. Then there are other bottom paints that can be
pulled, dried and relaunched several times with little loss of effectiveness.

You may want to post some of this information on your O'Day site. Also most
of the bottom paint companies have dot com sites with volumes of information
on the subject to help you get just the right type of bottom paint.

KL


MAKurtis (Emak41-at-excite.com)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Wed Feb 07, 2001 1:03 pm

Vince, on my DS II the bottom paint is about 1/8" below the lower gudgeon on the transom, and at the bow it is about 4" up for the "keel" line. You can estimate this distance from the picture of my boat in the photo gallery, 2nd page, DS II only. Once you have these 2 points marked, with the boat leaveled fore & aft based on these points and then side to side, you can mark the rest of the line either using a marked stick off a level floor, or fill a hose (25' or longer) with water and if you have a 12" piece of clear tubing on each end, you can then have someone hold one end at the bow or stern mark, then walk around the boat with the other end and the water level will remain at the "waterline" height as you go, just make marks every 12" or so as you go.
Believe me, this is much easier to do than deascribe!

Rod Johnson (rjohnson24-at-juno.com)
Guest
 


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