Main Sail Pulley Attachment Repair

[csrguth]

Need some advice rebuilding the main sail pulley attachment point at the aft end of my centerboard trunk. I have a 1980 Rebel DS1.

Full size pics of all the below http://daysailer.org/forum/gallery/album.php?album_id=128

The pulley bolts had come loose and I determined that the bolts and washers had pulled though the bottom fiberglass and were only being held by the gelcoat.


I was able to get the aft two nuts off but could only remove the forward two washers and bolts by pulling them through the gel coat.



The fiberglass between the holes appears to be solid. The aft two gelcoat holes are solid and the forward are cracked.

So now I need to reinforce the attachment point before reattaching. I'm thinking that I should put a single steel plate under the fiberglass drilled with four holes. But I'm wondering if I need something between the fiberglass and the steel plate to "level" the fiberglass and ensure the plate evenly distributes the load. I'm wondering if I need to reinforce the fiberglass and if I need to repair the gelcoat and how I should do each of these. The gelcoat will not be visible.

[GreenLake]

So, from the pictures it looks like your attachment is to a cap that sits on top of the CB trunk. What, I wonder, holds the cap to the trunk?

You don't really need any gel-coat (the white stuff) under your fitting, because it's not visible. If cracks really go no deeper than the gelcoat, they wouldn't matter. But in one of the photos I see a rather large crack and I wonder whether the laminate underneath it can really be solid. However, if you end up putting a steel plate underneath (stainless) then I think you will have ample holding power, even if you don't attend to the crack. (If you fixed the crack, you might not need a steel plate.

A small amount of epoxy-based putty would go a long way to further distributing the load. Just make sure your cap still fits over the CB trunk after you insert the steel plate.

Instead of a SS-Steel plate, check out the material called G-10 (which is sheets of laminate). Much easier to work with than SS and if glued with epoxy to the underside of your cap, probably provides strength enough. (Might use larger washers than you had, as well).

[csrguth]

Thanks,

Cap seams to be glued to the cb trunk.

I will probably buy a sheet of Phenolic Sheet, Opaque Off-White, 0.125" Thickness, 6" Width, 12" Length for $10.00.
http://www.amazon.com/Phenolic-Opaque-Off-White-Thickness-Length/dp/B0013HQ756/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

I plan on using marine epoxy-based putty such as http://www.marinetex.com/marinetexepoxyputty.html to distribute the load and fill the existing holes in the existing fiberglass layer. I assume that it will bond the laminate to the existing fiberglass and that once cured I can drill through them.

I agree with the larger washers unless I find a thin sheet of ss to place under the laminate.

Craig

[GreenLake]

Ah, now I can see it in your photos. The cap has an overhang at the back for the fitting. That wasn't clear.

Your plate idea with marine tex sounds like it should work. Not sure how well it will adhere to the sheet, but it will gap fill and can be drilled. WIth bolts and whatever washers you can fit that should be fine. If washers are oversize, grinding some of them down to fit will probably still be easier than manufacturing a SS backing plate.

Good luck!

[Bob Perkins]

I recommend doing this:



It is a solid component - and it moves the mainsheet to a better position operationally.
My opinion.

[swiftsail]

Forward is better. It keeps the skippers weight more toward the pivot point of the boat during tacks so you don't drag the transom so much.

[Bob Perkins]

yes -
and the crew has better access in a jam..
and there is less tripping over lines..
much better location..