halyard decisions/help

[kokko]

If you fill the holes with pop rivets, it will have a small hole where the revite stem can through. Should not me a problem. Otherwise you can buy aluminum self-tapping screws to screw into the old holes.

[klb67]

Thanks all. I don't think I'll be able to reuse 2 holes unless I shift the cheek block up several inches and mount the bottom of the block in the existing holes for the top of the old block - I'll have to look at that to see if that puts the new blocks up too high. If I just shift it up an inch and drill 4 new holes, the block will be mounted over top of the top 2 holes - I think there might be enough space in the new block that a rivet head wouldn't interfere. Otherwise I'll have to do something that's completely flush with the mast. I do think I'll go with rivets for the old set of bottom holes that will be exposed, filled with silicone. I just need to source SS rivets locally.

[ChrisB]

If you have a West Marine nearby they carry SST rivets.

-Chris

[jeadstx]

My boat is a 1976 DS2, but the P.O. replaced my mast with one off a 1958 DS1. Consequently I have a few holes in my mast where I don't have hardware. I just put sealent in the extra holes. Every so often I redo them.

John

[jdoorly]

TrueValue hardware has stainless rivets, and even the rustless monel staples I needed.

[klb67]

Thanks all. New cheek blocks are rivited in their new location. Top tip - make sure the block is installed in the correct orientation. Drilling out new stainless rivets is not fun.

[klb67]

I am very pleased to report that the new line halyards are installed and awaiting a spring thaw to put them in use (still months away unfortunately). I replaced the masthead sheaves - a piece of cake. I drilled out the majority of the diameter of the rivet holding them in and then punched out the remainder. I used a 1/4 stainless cap screw with a good size shoulder before the thread (I think 2") and a stainless lock nut on the other side, with anti-seize applied to the holes. The shoulder runs the entirety of the space that the sheave rides on, so I think it will work quite well. Before installation, I measured and cut off the excess bolt flush with the end of the nut. I wish I had done this last year.