GreenLake wrote:kokko wrote:The viscosity is about 100000 centipoise.
To put that into perspective:
wikipedia wrote:When determining centipoise, all other fluids are calibrated to the viscosity of distilled water at STP. (in some practices, one can use the following approximation: water at approximately 70 °F (21 °C) is about one centipoise).
Thicker liquids, like honey, have higher viscosities. For example, while ethylene glycol has a viscosity of just 24 centipoise at 23 C, honey has a viscosity of 2 000 centipoise and molasses has a viscosity of 5 000 centipoise. Lard has a viscosity of 100 000 centipoise.[
But I think bluesman has come to a decision. Now all we can do is wait to hear whether it worked out the way he expected.
Bluesman,
Just in case You Haven't Executed this/these repairs yet, and While Green Lake had definitely good tips for getting the vessel on it's side (via mast for leverage)...a couple things to contemplate:
A-Use Scotch blue tape over the opposing side from that where any joints are where You're applying the adhesive (minimizes mess and cleanup in a major way, stops 'leakage' completely if properly applied...ergo You don't waste any material and the tape is exponentially cheaper than the adhesive, which ever was decided on)
B-I'm in a similar dilemma with several cracks in the integral reinforcing stringers either side of the, and thereby part of, the 'backbone' of the hull where 2 glassed in stringers running either side of the very bottom have cracks in their tops causing flex in the hull.
Point being that, like Your repair I'm going to have to "SHIM" the hull so that it retains it's original shape (VERSUS Sitting on a trailer or On it's Side in Your case; 1 side for 1 batch of repairs, then the other side for other repairs), because IF You attempt the repair[s] With a "Mis-shaped" Hull (caused by Gravity, Ground, Your "on it's side" dilemma, (because the ground in Your case, just ike the trailer bunks in my case...isn't remotely Like the WATER which applies pressure to the Whole Hull equally) And established weakness in the hull based on this damaged hull to deck joint), You may be worse off than not repairing at all(!)
See, IF the hull is 'out of shape' when You repair one side (especially using an epoxy system for repair that's dramatically less flexible than 5200 or the like), then You roll it over and repair the opposing side, when THAT Side is ALSO "out of shape"...well brother You may wind up with a boat like A FG Dinghy I ran in to this problem with decades ago...it wound up much 'squarer' than it's original design and while more seaworthy, much less water dynamic. Me thinks Your desire isn't a 'boxy' boat when completed.
One of the cures/preventatives for the potential dilemma (that actually defies gravity) is to take the cinch/tie down moving straps used for hauling everything from motorcycles to Refrigerators (about 4 will be required, like the 4packs that are sold at HD/Lowes, etc.) and run them all the way around the hull, PRIOR rolling on it's side, just below the Hull to Deck joint, and tighten Just enough to retain the shape while noting measurements from bow to stern, amidships across cockpit, and double checking same after You have on it's side. final tightening/adjusting should be done across the transom and don't over-tighten.
Good Luck in Your mission,
HTH,
-Mick