Refinishing topsides and hull

[ifrichard]

Recommendations for refinishing topsides and hull of Sail Number: 1288. The boat was original a turquoise blue. Now it has lots of Gel Coat crazing and 2 ugly coats of dark blue paint on both the topsides and hull. I can live with the dark hull color, but would like to go to a very light blue topsides. What is the recommended cheap fix and what is the recommend correct fix? Has anyone used soda blasting?

[willyhays]

I am in the midst of the same project and here is what I will be using for paints:

Bottom paint
Interlux VC Performance Epoxy. I will be applying it with a roller, and then sanding and buffing.

Topsides and deck
I am considering two different paints: Interlux Perfection and AlexSeal. I am leaning toward Alexseal, because if the application is not perfect Alexseal can be sanding and buffed out to a mirror finish. It can also be repaired. Perfection is not designed to be sanded or buffed. Since I am not a professional painter the odds of me getting a perfect paint job without sanding and buffing seem slim.

Interior
Pettit EZ Cabin Coat

[K.C. Walker]

If you count your time as worth anything, there isn't a cheap fix, unless you leave it mostly as is with some relatively minor work. Most likely, the least expensive fix is to find a boat that's in better condition (with original gelcoat) and sell the boat that you have. So… Did I follow my own advice… No! However, I still think it's the case.

Now if you find working on boats, and in particular doing fiberglass work and paintwork enjoyable, then obviously doing the work yourself is the lesser expensive fix. However, labor is the major ingredient! So, I would go with the best materials available and I would say that Willy is on the right track.

Because you are asking, it's likely that you are not experienced in this work and therefore it may be that the "correct fix" it is to hire a professional that is experienced. It would probably be worthwhile getting an estimate from a good boat yard or fiberglass boat repair place. They would probably get the materials at a discount and mark them up to a bit more than you would pay directly, but again the major expense will be labor. If you got an estimate of their labor time you could figure that, without experience, you are going to take more than twice as long as they would to do the same job, possibly multiple times more time. Also, if you got an estimate they might see things that you don't that need to be done.

[GreenLake]

I used SystemThree's Water Reducible (WR) linear Polyurethane (LPU) when I refinished the hull. I used neat epoxy as primer (System Three's SilverTip laminating epoxy). I applied the paint by roller and had a second person follow with a tipping brush to pop the bubbles. We used two brushes and washed and dried them between passes. I purchased the brushes with the paint from SystemThree and the quality was better than most of the brushes I normally see for sale. The quality of the brush used for tipping makes a difference.

I ended up doing a few extra coats and removed blemishes by sanding and buffing. I didn't buff to a high gloss, because it's not something I like. I used 3M's "Finesse it" to follow on their marine compound. That takes care of swirl marks and produces a reasonable shine. I'm in the waxed bottom camp.

I used the occasion to fill cracks and do a bit of fairing using QuickFair. The old paint had failed in parts. To get it off, an orbital sander with 24 or 36 grit proved sufficient. I used the smallest grit that worked efficiently. I doubt that soda blasting would have improved the results or made the process quicker -- for the hull. The deck has some anti-skid pattern molded in. It has been painted by the PO, but I have no idea what prep he did. HIs paint has hung on tenaciously though (I have the receipts, it's no longer manufactured). If I did the deck I might end up with most of the pattern either sanded flush, or filled in by paint. That would require using some method to re-create a textured surface. Will cross that bridge when I get to it.

[tc53]

While I have my seats, thwarts, and combings off the boat for refinishing, I want to thoroughly clean, prep, and repaint the cockpit floor/sides up into the cuddy cabin. Any suggestions for cleaning and prepping and/or best paint to use?

[kokko]

On Truelove I used Pittsburgh Revitalize It is for concrete and wood decks and masks the raw fiberglass surfaces. Held up well the first season

[Baysailer]

I used interlux topsides (the one part stuff) on the inner hull of my Rhodes about 10 years ago and it hasn't worn or faded at all on the inner hull. I should freshen it up some on the deck but even that still looks reasonably good. It was easy to use too as I remember.

Fred

[GreenLake]

The magazine Practical Sailor regularly tests finishes. The problem is that what worked 10 years ago is now no longer produced - the brand may be the same but the formulation would be different most likely - because of the need to address emissions from volatiles mostly.

[K.C. Walker]

Bilge paint needs to be able to handle standing water unless you are meticulous about keeping your bilge dry. Most topside paints are not formulated to withstand immersion for long periods of time. I used a single coat of waterborne two-part epoxy, PPG Aquapon. It's held up quite well for five seasons. I bought a 2 quart pack and it would have been enough for two coats. I painted from the foreword bulkhead to the transom but not the cuddy ceiling.. I bought it from George Kirby paints in New Bedford Mass., they do ship.

[GreenLake]

Some topside paints are more sensitive to moisture than others, but bilge paint is a good idea.

[tc53]

Thanks, all, for the advice. K.C., is this the PPG Aquapon product you meant?

http://www.ppghighperformancecoatings.com/Products/By-Brand/AQUAPON%C2%AE/AQUAPON%C2%AE-WB-Water-Base-Epoxy.aspx

(I'm not sure I'm inserting that link properly).

As for prepping the existing surface, I was thinking I would scrub it really well with some sort of strong cleanser, then do a final cleaning with TSP, rinsing and dry ing it well, before applying the new paint. Do you think I would need to do more, like sanding the existing paint off?

Thanks.

[GreenLake]

(I'm not sure I'm inserting that link properly).

Fixed it for you.

As for prepping the existing surface, I was thinking I would scrub it really well with some sort of strong cleanser, then do a final cleaning with TSP, rinsing and drying it well, before applying the new paint. Do you think I would need to do more, like sanding the existing paint off?

If you don't sand the existing paint, then your new paint will only ever bond as well as the old paint. At the very minimum you'd always want to "scuff" sand. If you have areas where there's a bit of a non-skid pattern on your deck, sanding can be difficult, or you may have to recreate the non-skid effect with special paints or additives after sanding made the existing one ineffective.

Washing before sanding is the right way to go, so you don't grind grease and contamination into the substrate while sanding.

[K.C. Walker]

Yes, that's the stuff. It lays out ok with a brush but it really goes well with those small foam trim rollers, the ones that are approximately an inch in diameter and cigar shaped on one end. Those are available at Home Depot.

+1 for what Green Lake said on prep. If what you have is really well bonded, scuff sanding should be enough. On irregular surfaces like the inside of the hull you can use heavy-duty scouring powders to get it scuffed. It cleans it really well as well as abrades the surface. If you are unsure of how well the previous coating is adhered, I would recommend poking at it with a paint scraper and see how it comes off. If it seems really well stuck you're probably okay.

My boat had been painted with topside paint of questionable quality on the inside of the cockpit and was flaking wherever there had been standing water. It looked good elsewhere. Because I was doing extensive repair on the inside I had most of the paint and original gelcoat (or whatever that splatter paint was) removed. It's messy and you would want to wear a good respirator mask and goggles but this tool is reasonably fast at removing paint, as recommended by West System for epoxy prep. http://www.amazon.com/Norton-Drill-Moun ... B00755WIVW

[tc53]

I am getting ready to repaint the cockpit deck and underside of the cabin top. K.C., I would like to use the PPG Aquapon WB epoxy you recommended for both, but I've only been able to find it in gallon sizes (with the two-part total over $130!). You mentioned you found a two-quart kit. Was that at a local paint distributor, or is it available online? Thanks! If I cannot find the smaller quantities of the Aquapon, are there other products that would stand up well on the cockpit deck?

[K.C. Walker]

Yes, it is a bit pricey. The advantage that I felt was worth it was that for bilge paint, it can stand to be submerged, being epoxy. As mentioned, George Kirby paints out of New Bedford is where I bought it. They did ship it to me. I did have to call them, as they don't list it on their website. It was recommended to me by one of the owners of MAAS epoxy and he also bought it from George Kirby. Fortunately, I did not have to research the paint; so unfortunately, I don't have any other recommendations.