New rudder head

[GreenLake]

I think for your expeditions and John's Tx200, the raisability (to use that term) is a key issue. And I really like the clever design with the slot for letting the pivot slide. Especially, since just pulling the downhaul keeps the pivot locked at the bottom end of the slot.

Although, why you are so down on wood and or fiberglass, I can't quite follow. I think it would be easy to replicate the functionality (and strength) of your design with those materials, while retaining the advantage of less weight on the transom. My rudder now contributes 0 (zero) to adverse boat trim, because it's effectively at neutral buoyancy (and that includes the weight of the tiller).

There is one (1) event here that I could sail if I had the DS measured. It's been called "day camp" for adults, and is supposed to be great fun, so while I think that the DS isn't a bot to win, even with handicaps, it's something that I don't want to rule out. Hence my reluctance to go outside class legal, despite the fact that the rest of the time it's been rather irrelevant.

Now, curiously, while I like the stock tiller, I have no kind words to say about the stock rudder blade. The foil shape is terrible, and, another thing that prompted me to replace mine, is the fact that it contains rebar (mild steel) in at least some iterations. If damaged, the steel will rust, and expand, and create cracks, letting more water in, for more rust...

On mine, as reported, there was also this entirely flat area at the top end of the blade that we exposed to the flow of water under the keel. I simply can't imagine that this contributes anything positive to the experience and in building a new blade, I was able to avoid that.

Now that you have the new rudder head, nothing prevents you from building a new blade. That would make the existing one your spare, which might in fact be handy. It's not that hard. A better grade of wood compared tow hat I used could result in a more durable design and for added strength, I'd consider the technique of cutting wide, shallow grooves down both sides and filling them with laminate (carbon fiber, for example). In addition to a full sheath of glass fabric, of course. But beyond all of those concerns, you could also play with some of the other parameters - making it deeper, for example, or deeper but narrower for a higher aspect ratio. See whether that improves anything or just shows uo the deficiencies of the CB more fully.

[TIM WEBB]

Yes, as I said, being able to get the head/blade out of the water at anchor was the reason I pursued this project in the first place. Also, credit where credit is due: the idea for the slot was John's ... I just shamelessly took it and rolled with it and made it work ... ;-P

I am "down on wood and or fiberglass" for several reasons, the main one being that I do not possess the skills nor the available workspace/tools to work with either (I envy those of you who do), whereas I have a full on metal shop at my disposal, and the skills necessary to work with same. Also, I feel that there is a lot more maintenance involved with wood/fg than metal. With the former, you have to go through the whole process of cutting, shaping, sanding, glassing, etc etc etc, whereas with the latter, when they need replacing, I simply C&C new plates, and an hour later I'm done!

As far as weight on the transom goes, all I know is that the new rudder assembly "feels" a lot lighter than the old one. Interesting point tho - will have to do a weight comparison there. Doesn't really matter tho, as on most of the trips I do, the weight of gear/provisions/etc. in the cuddy far outweighs any little bit of more or less weight on the transom. And I'm afraid that TRW is so far beyond being class legal in other areas that the rudder head would be the least of my worries, should I ever decide to enter Her in an event such as you describe ...

[GreenLake]

So, in other words, if you have a hammer, every problem looks like a nail (Couldn't resist that one).

I do pick materials at times based on what I have tools for, and experience with. So I get you. Complex metal shapes would be much harder for me. Occasionally a job needs metal and I've had to outsource some over the years, for example when I replaced the bracket where I mount the jib cleats on the CB trunk. PO had used aluminum channel (bad choice, it corroded); probably because it's relatively easy to work. I found a place to manufacture it for me in SS.

But the tools required to do foils aren't that involved, I think. Can tell you what I used for my rudder, if you are interested.

[TIM WEBB]

True, however, if you really do have a nail, but no hammer, where does that get you?

Sure, would love to see the tool list ...

[GreenLake]

About the list of tools to create a rudder or rudder foil from wood.

From memory, this should be the complete tool list:

Hand tools: sanding board (not as long as for fairing a hull), sanding block, shureform, wood chisel, file, screw driver, pull saw
Power tools: power plane, belt sander, jig saw, orbital sander, drill
Finishing: chip brushes, roller, tipping brush, spreaders and spatulas
Fiberglass: measuring cups, stir sticks, gloves, and spreaders
Gluing: clamps

Shureform, power plane and belt sander for the rough shaping. I used both of the power tools because I had both of them - any other combination that can take material off quickly might have worked equally well, for example extremely coarse grit orbital sander, or a saw for making depth cuts followed by a chisel.

For cutting out the notches to fit the bands from the pintles, I largely used chisels and a file. Could have used a router for much of that work. Felt like mentioning this to show how multiple ways lead to the same end.

Jig saw: a band saw would have worked well for this as well, just don't happen to have one. For cutting the original rectangle for the work piece, I might have used any number of tools; I don't remember whether I had to cut it out of a large sheet, or whether I already had it in the shape of a "strip" that I just had to cut in half to double up. Jig saw would work in either situation, but if I started with a sheet, I most likely would have used a circular saw. If my starting piece was already a strip that was just a little too wide, I might have used a table saw, but if I had neither, the jig saw would have gotten the work done.

Of these lists, I would suspect that some tools are practically in everybody's tool box, because they get used for all sorts to projects around boat or house. So the list of 'specific' tools would be much smaller.

[TIM WEBB]

Thanks for the list GL - very impressive!

However, one still must have the workspace available to use said tools. I do not, therefore until such time as I do, I'll continue to use the machine shop, a workspace I *do* have at my disposal ... <grin>

[GreenLake]

If I had a nice workshop space, I would use it, too.

Most of the work I did required very little space; effectively the corner of a work bench (or even a less formal support, like saw horses with a plank, the top of a table saw not in use, you name it....) I use almost anything for supporting a work piece, the taller it is the better, bending over is very tiring, I find.