DaySailer.org Forum

After missing all of 2016, I got the DSII in the water this season and am re-learning my single handed sailing skills. (First mate/wife resigned - "It's boring." She isn't happy until planing on a windsurfer. She's more comfortable in 20kt breeze on a board, than 10kt in a boat .)

Even at high tide, shallow Little Egg Harbor/Barnegat Bay can be a challenge. Good thing is that, except for occasional sunken junk left over from Hurricane Sandy, bottom is soft.

I've rigged the CB with a spring loaded hold down cleat and line to pull it back down when it pops up. I've learned that I don't need to cleat it down unless I'm moving fast and spontaneous raising of CB leads to lee helm. I'm gradually learning how to adjust CB to balance helm.

Rudder continues to be a challenge. I rigged a hold down line, but first time rudder hit quickly, pad-eye directing line pulled out when rudder kicked up. Now I've let rudder hold down line just hang loose and adjust swing friction with wing nut.

On my previous boat, an AMF Sunbird, springs connected the rudder head to blade in such a way that both held rudder down while sailing could also hold it up when desired. It's similar to set-up on a Sunfish. Has anyone ever fitted such a system to a Daysailor? I'd like to try a modification, but first barrier is big wingnut on end of rudder pivot bolt. Anyone have an idea on how to replace this bold with something that is flush to rudder head on both sides?

You'll need a bolt and a "nut" that together look like a rivet (a cylinder with two flat heads).

If you took a SS carriage bolt like you have and had a machine shop cut it flush, then drill and tap, you could use a smaller bolt from the other side (with a flat head and a washer). If you make that an allen head, instead of hex, the head wouldn't have any hard edges. And an allen wrench should be easy to keep around with the rudder.

The old bolt becomes the "nut" effectively...

Talk it over with them, I think the existing rudder pivots are a bit overdesigned, so there's room for a solution like this.

Cool idea regarding bolt. I can picture it and actually have a machinist friend.

Did original design really use a big wing nut or was that something from previous owner? I'm thinking of at least getting a slightly shorter bolt and using a cap nut. Any reason not to, other than need for wrench?

How about a spring set-up? Has anyone you know done this to a DS?

Mark

The wing nut would seem to be original; can't see any evidence on the rudder the way I got it that pointed to mods of any kind.

FYA&A, I think I found what I wanted. Their called "sex bolts".

Really!

https://www.boltdepot.com/Sex_bolts_and ... crews.aspx

The 7/16" size with oversized truss head (diameter 15/16") might be a good fit. However it's offered as 18-8 stainless not 316, which means you'd probably not be happy with it near saltwater.

Tipster1 wrote:FYA&A, I think I found what I wanted. Their called "sex bolts".

Really!

https://www.boltdepot.com/Sex_bolts_and ... crews.aspx

Interesting name, but a very helpful part, nonetheless.

AKA "Chicago bolts"

GreenLake wrote:The 7/16" size with oversized truss head (diameter 15/16") might be a good fit. However it's offered as 18-8 stainless not 316, which means you'd probably not be happy with it near saltwater.

I'll consider that also. Current bolt is 3/8". I hate to start drilling things if it can be avoided. I plan to contact store in the spring.

By all means, get whatever matches. I haven't looked closely at mine in a while, so I didn't think it was a 3/8", but might well be.

Or simply use some other nut than a wingnut. Might be low enough in profile, and you can get it in 316.