DS2 Information

For issues common to different models of DaySailer.
Except Rigging and Sails.

Moderator: GreenLake

DS2 Information

Postby Guest » Sat Jun 06, 1998 12:00 am

First off....great web page! I have found the answer to many questions that have popped up over the last couple of years.

My O'Day hull plate states that my hull number is 25477 and the class is 4747, made by O'Day. From looking at the hull number vs. DS model number table at <A HREF='http://www.convergant.com/daysailer/articles/dsbuldrchrt.htm'>http://www.convergant.com/daysailer/articles/dsbuldrchrt.htm</A>, my boat does not exist. From the pictures and descriptions posted on this site, I am sure that it is a DS2 model. Is my assumption correct?

Now for some repair related questions:
1) The stern rope "eye" has become loose over the past year and I don't want to risk loosing my boat from my mooring! My plan was to install a 6 or 8" inspection hatch in the front vertical surface of the "cabin" so I can access the back side of the hardware. Is this the recommended method?
2) The joint between the hull and deck has separated slightly (when viewed from outside the boat, looking up into the joint) in some areas leaving a 1/8" gap. Last year, I injected epoxy into the gap and clamped the seam closed. In some locations, it has held. In others, it failed. Suggestions?
3) The front deck was been letting out some "creaks" when being stepped on. The creaks sound like delaminating fiberglass. There is no visible damage, yet, and therefore I would like to repair it soon. My plan was to drill injection holes and attempt to penetrate the delamination with thin epoxy. Is this the recommended method?

Thanks in advance to all replies. I hope you are having as much fun with your DS a my family and I have on ours.

Chris McArthur (ivc-at-connect.reach.net)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Tue Jun 09, 1998 12:00 am

Chris,

Check out the source of deck "creaks" carefully, it may be from a delaminated hull to deck joint that is flexing when you walk on the deck. I found an open seam next to my deck "creak". A bad deck may be detected by sounding (tap with a plastic hammer). Compare the recoil from "good glass" with the suspect area. A dull sound and poor recoil may indicate voids or delamination.

John C (pf_flyer_1-at-yahoo.com)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Sun Jun 14, 1998 12:00 am

First off, I have a 1976 DS 2. I can't figure out what you mean by a stern rope "eye". I Have only two cleats (I think they're too small) on port and starboard. Next...Deck/Hull separation: I have some and what I did was to clean the joint and "pack" it with an epoxy patch. This type of material I actually bought at K-mart!!! It comes as a soft material with green hardener coating the exterior of a Resin tube (like a hotdog)...you cut off what you need roll and "mix" it into a uniform color and then press it in place. Seems to work well.. I might suggest that where your epoxy didn't hold was because the joint was "dirty". maybe you should try a Dremel tool to clean up the joint. Then you'll probably get a better bond. After all dirt is surface stuff which will sluff off...if you bond to that...oh well.. Happy sailing


Jeff (Lakeleach-at-clarityconnect.com)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Sun Jun 14, 1998 12:00 am

Please disregard my winter weariness and replace "stern eye" with "bow eye". The loose rope eye is inserted into the bow of the boat.

Thanks for the deck/hull joint suggestions. I do believe that cleaning the crack with a dremel tool or acetate would have help considerably.

Thanks

Chris McArthur (ivc-at-connect.reach.net)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Mon Jun 15, 1998 12:00 am

Concerning the Bow eye problem. Mine got loose and broke off. The best way to deal with it is to put in an inspection hatch. I did this with my 1979 day sailor. Not only is it the recommended way, as far as I can tell, it is the only way short of removing the entire deck assembly. And one you have the inspection hatch it is a handy thing to have.

Nick Hoover (nick.hoover-at-tdh.state.tx.us)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Mon Jun 15, 1998 12:00 am

Hull-deck separation:
I have encountered this problem. The solution I am using came from the Laser FAQ. First I removed as much of the old adhesive as possible and then injected the joint with 3M 5200 polyurethane sealant. 5200 is the stuff most of boat manufactures use to bond hull to deck joints, it is more flexible than West Systems epoxy or similar.
I used a hacksaw blade broken in half to remove material. I sawed out the old adhesive and blew out as much dust as possible. Next, I loaded a West Systems epoxy syringe with 5200 and injected it into the hull/deck joint. It helped to pry open the joint with screwdriver to get to the entire flange. Then the trusty hacksaw blade was used to spread the sealant. C-Clamps were used to hold the deck and hull together, but not too tight to spew out all the 5200.
I believe I was able to adequately seal the joint from the outside, with out having to open up the cuddy liner and attacking from the inside. If it reopens, IÆll try this option.


John C (pf_flyer_1-at-yahoo.com)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Sat Jul 18, 1998 12:00 am

My '77 DSII had the same problem. I recommend an 8" hatch because otherwisw you'll need a second elbow in you arm to remove the nuts. After you cut out the hole for the hatch, you'll find a bunch of cubes of foam floatation which you'll need to remove. Then you'll see that the bow eye bolts were backed up by a piece of plywood which is probably the source of your problem. Remove the old one and replace it with a new piece of marine grade plywood - torque the bolts and you're in business. While I was at it, I added a couple of rope guides on the fore deck for my anchor rode. Good Luck!

Philip Traquair (traquair-at-comteck.com)
Guest
 


Return to Repair and Improvement

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 2 guests

cron