Attaching a Motor to Your Day Sailer

[Guest]

Steve,
I share your dilemma in motoring my DS1. I have a 1963 Evinrude 4hp, long shaft, 2 cycle, gas motor. It works great - when it works! Actually, it has been fairly reliable but nonetheless has let me down a few times. So I started looking at new gas motors - the cost was the main deterrant, but the noise, smell, and fact that 2 strokes are on their way out, and 4's are even more expensive, were all things to consider.
So, I purchased a Motor Guide 44lb thrust, electric motor from Wal-Mart - on clearance for $100 (+$50 battery) - couldn't pass up the deal! This motor is technically sufficient for a boat of our size/weight. However, the issue that comes up again here relates to WHERE, and under what conditions you are boating. The electric motor worked great on the inland lakes here in Western, PA - it is virtually silent, has plenty of power, instant on, forward and reverse, battery never ran down more than half under hours of usage (on a still day).
HOWEVER, I took the same boat & elec. motor out on the Chesapeake Bay (where I grew up sailing) on a 10-15 knot, 2-3 foot chop day and DID NOT feel very comfortable. I was near shore, motoring from a ramp to a dock about 1/2 a mile away, into a head wind. The motor could not keep up - I was gradually losing "ground" and heading for the shore. Before I got in trouble I hoisted the main in order to gain control.
Now I realize these conditions were probably too much for the electric motor, which is exactly my point.
I will, however, give it another chance next year - but not on the Bay under those conditions! So, after trying/owning both types of motors, I conclude that it ALL depends on where you are sailing and in what situations. The electric definately has its advantages - if used cautiously. I hope this helps you make your decision - I guess all you can do is keep checking the clearence section at Wal-Mart and give an electric a try!
Rob

Rob Bryan (jrobertbryan-at-hotmail.com)

[Guest]

Thanks for this most useful experiance Bob. The condition under which I most need a motor is when the wind dies totally, but there is still a strong tide.

Let me know when you use the electric again.

Steve

Steve Max (75264.153-at-compuserve.com)

[Guest]

regarding horsepower........I agree that a 2-4 hp motor is ideal for the boat power wise....except for one respect..........noise and vibration. I had mine come with a 5 hp mariner that apparently was made by yamaha in the mid 80s. Its a 2 stroke and extremely quiet and smooth compared to all the smaller motors I heard or seen as well as other 5 hps I've tried. I can live without a motor on my boat but having a good one makes it desirable to motor out of the river tot he bay to avoid the powerboat wakes and get to the better wind. Running the boat with the 5 hp at less than 1/2 throttle planes the boat off and has a satifying mmmmmmmmmmmmmm noise. Smaller motors seem to be louder and buzzier....and probably annoying for the long hauls. IN my opinion the debate is between a motor and no motor..........and extra 10 pounds of a larger one isnt going to make much difference. In my opinion all motors of a given size are not created alike...........

Harris (hg-at-myhost.com)

[Guest]

Noise, or more correctly..vibration-induced noise was one factor that I considered when I replaced the 2.3hp outboard on my boat. The 4hp Johnson has "rubber" rings inside the swivel points on the mounting clamps to isolate the motor's vibration from the boat. This is also a 2 cylinder motor, and 2 cylinder engines are supposed to be smoother (less vibration) than a 1 cylinder. Johnson and Evinrude used to make a nice little 2hp outboard (earlier model was 1.5hp) they made the 2hp from 1971 to 1985, then re-rated it as a 1.5hp, it was dropped from production in 1990. This is about the only motor of less than 3hp that I'm aware of that has this feature of vibration-isolation. Even though it was a 1 cylinder engine, it still was reasonably quiet, and at 24# was easy to carry. If well cared for, these 1.5 or 2hp outboards last forever in freshwater, and can still run trouble free for many years in saltwater. I borrowed a 1984 2hp once to move my DS II away from the ramp and I think it had more power than the 2.3hp.The truth is, 2 hp is plenty of power, but jumping up to a 2-cylinder engine with vibration isolation is worth it! My 4hp weighs about 36# and it is a long-shaft. Yamaha, Nissan, Mercury and Mariner 4hp weigh about 44# but again...smooth!

Rod Johnson,"SUNBIRD" (rjohnson24-at-juno.com)

[Guest]

In regards to using a motor in tidal areas: I use a Johnson 4 h.p. long shaft here on the Hudson River.
There is always a 2 knot or so tide and if the wind dies when you are 'down tide' of home base you are going to need a motor, no doubt about it. I use an external tank, fixed motor mount off to the side, only problem is if you let the rudder pop up it will bang into the motor at the dock/ramp or get caught up in the prop if the tide is pushing against the stern. 4 h.p. seems sufficient at most times. You have to play with the angle adjustment to get the proper 'sit' for powering with the sails down and board up, DS tends to squat a little. Make sure you detach it when trailering! Although I only use the motor about every third or fourth time out, I couldn't imagine going out on the Hudson or any tidal water without one.

Pete Tenerowicz (peteten-at-hotmail.com)

[Guest]

When using a centerboard boat like the Day Sailer with an outboard (gas or especially electric) I find it best to have the centerboard about 1/3 to 1/2 way down. This gives the boat a "bite" on the water and makes steering (especially with a crosswind) much easier. I steer with the rudder and the way I have my 4hp Johnson mounted...the rudder and prop miss each other fine, if I raise the rudder (let it kick up) I do need to be more careful, but with the rudder down...no problem. I still may add a plexiglass guard to the side of the motor to stop the rudder from reaching the prop. If I do this, I'll have to take a picture or 2 to post either here or on the O'Day Owners Club on Yahoo!

Rod Johnson, "SUNBIRD" (rjohnson24-at-juno.com)

[Guest]

I sail on the St. John's river in Jacksonville, and went round and round on this issue. Reading many posts and doing some homework, I decided for purist and cost reasons to go electric. A hunge for the motor, 75 bucks battery, and done. Worked fine til this weekend....

Head wind, current, and drawbridge all added up to needing more "oomph", and I'm now shopping for a previously (but lightly) used 4 hp. Reasons:

1. I'm not comfortable with a minimum, and my motor was difinitely the minimum on Friday.
2. There's no way to predict the battery's "running out of gas".
3. 1+2 = peace of mind.

The lake sailor purists might appreciate a few horses when you're being pushed into a draw span by the wind, the current, and the no-wake-zone-but-I'm-in-a-hurry wake of a 32' SeaRay!



Tom (Tbeames65-at-cs.com)

[Guest]

Tom, try to get a long-shaft on that 4 hp, that way when the wake from that Sea Ray hits, the prop should stay in the water....well, it will stay immersed a lot better than a short-shaft! Experience talking!

Rod Johnson, "SUNBIRD" (rjohnson24-at-juno.com)

[Guest]

Re; electric motors. does any one know if you need boat registration in Mass. for the electric propelsion?

John (ghampe-at-rcn.com)

[Guest]

As the owner of a Day Sailer II moored in Wareham, MA...I can tell you that (unfortunately) any boat in Massachusetts with a motor (gas, diesel, steam, electric, etc.) must be registered. The cost is not so high, $30.00 for 2 years (could go MUCH higher if Question #1 passes!). You will then need to put the MS numbers on both sides of the bow in minimum 3" high letters, contrasting color to the hull color so to be visible from 100' away. However, I think that if you do all your motoring on a totally private body of water, that is if you own the lake......no registration is needed.(grin!)

Rod Johnson, "SUNBIRD" (rjohnson24-at-juno.com)

[Guest]

Rod is quite right.

The Massachusetts rules can be found at

www.state.ma.us/dfwele

Follow links to boat registration and look for the FAQS page,

Steve Max (75264.153-at-compuserve.com)

[Guest]

Rod is quite right.

The Massachusetts rules can be found at

www.state.ma.us/dfwele

Follow links to boat registration and look for the FAQS page,

Steve Max (75264.153-at-compuserve.com)

[warren mathisen]

Motors are a pain, they stink, they leave fuel stains and make noise. You are better off learning to sail to and from the boat ramp or getting a couple of big paddles then the wind dies.

I had a O' Day Sailer II, (DS 6210), Between 1977 and 1981.

You can clamp a 2-8 horse power motor between the tiller and the corner of the transom on the port side. You steer with the tiller or the motor. The rudder blade will hit the propeller if you aren't aware of it and turn to quick.

On my DS II the only accessory I used was a bit of carpet to keep the motor mount screws from scratching the hull.

I have a short shaft 4 1/2 hp on my 1980 Day Sailer One that I only used then we are trolling for trout. Many Day Sailers I have seen have motor mounts bolted thur the transom. If you are going to buy a motor, I would reccommend the lightest 3to 5 hp long shaft you can find. The more you sail the less you will used it.


Gus Heismann (marktdes-at-oneimage.com)

[Roger]

I can move my boat at 10 knots with the motor on flat water. A 4 cycle would weigh more. An electric would cost less, make less noise, and I could mount the battery near the front of the cuddy to even out the weight. Comparitivly, a 54 pound thrust would do a similar job as a 5 hp. My lake is going 4 cyc only in 2007, so I have to make a decision.

I have a peg on the fin to prevent the motor from kissing the rudder. I have an epoxied ply board on the outside and an aluminum plate on the inside. My motor is locked to an eyebolt that is through bolted and not accessible unless the motor is off.

Check my pics. http://groups.msn.com/RogerConrad/shoeb ... hotoID=127