Changing the Mainsheet Rigging

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Changing the Mainsheet Rigging

Postby barehanded » Wed Jun 17, 2020 12:53 am

I'm restoring a 1963 Daysailer. It's going well and she sails like a dream given how much I still need to fix. I feel like own a classic car now.

One thing that's been an irritation is the mainsheet rigging. It's constantly getting tangled on the raised outboard, the corners of the stern, and other things. It's done in this style:
boom-end.png
boom-end.png (38.18 KiB) Viewed 2762 times


I want to change it to this style which I find has less of an issue getting tangled around other parts of the boat:
double-block.png
double-block.png (44.54 KiB) Viewed 2762 times


My main concern is the boom. I'm wondering if it can support the load from the one spot in the middle. Has anyone ever rigged the boom of this vintage in this fashion?

It turns out that the last block on the boom before the mainsheet drops to the mainsheet block is mounted just over a t-track where I could mount a double pulley:
boom_block.jpg
boom_block.jpg (57.9 KiB) Viewed 2762 times


I'd probably use the holes from the current pulley to mount a safely line in case the swivel on the t-rail mounted one breaks.

The current main sheet block and jam-cleat is mounted in such a way that I'd keep the mount and upgrade the block.

I'd be quite grateful to hear if anyone has ever re-rigged a mainsheet like this or has thoughts about it.

Thanks.
.
barehanded
 
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Location: Roseville, MN

Re: Changing the Mainsheet Rigging

Postby GreenLake » Wed Jun 17, 2020 2:26 am

Welcome to the forum! I also own a '63 DS1. And I have a version of the classic traveler in the back.

My experience is that having the mainsheet tangle is (largely) due to operator error. When sailing upwind, the mainsheet is tight enough that it will not tangle during a tack. You can leave it cleated, if you want, even though it may sometimes be better to let it out a bit after the tack and then pull it back in as the boat accelerates.

However, when gybing, if you leave the main simply cleated it will tangle in all sorts of places. Instead, what you are supposed to do is to sheet in the main, bringing the boom in, and, with the mainsheet remaining tight, letting the boom back out the other side: a much more controlled gybe and no more tangles.

My setup for the traveler in the back is slightly different from what you show. I have a simple triangle (of fixed size), the apex of which has a single block attached. The end of the boom has a single block with becket. Mainsheet goes aft, through both blocks, back to the becket.

1318

Opposite the block in the traveler there is a knot forming a loop, and I have a hidden hook under the transom that this loop can be hooked to. That fixes the traveler in the center position (for upwind). I usually forget to release it, but it could be released for downwind/broad reaches.

You could change to that setup and make it work with some attention to the process, or you could change it to center sheeting. Not that uncommon and the boom should handle it. if you can find the hardware, you might use the T track to attach a set of two blocks fore-and-aft rather than a single set of multiple blocks. That would distribute things a bit, if you are worried.

PS: I also sail with motor at times:
2651
In this more recent picture, the traveler has been upgraded and is blue. Because I use a fixed triangle and mostly keep it locked, it doesn't interfere with the motor, even when the control arm hangs into the cockpit. As long as I keep a bit of tension on the main, so it doesn't droop down from the boom, it'll nicely stay clear of all the hardware (and the stern cleats).
~ green ~ lake ~ ~
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Re: Changing the Mainsheet Rigging

Postby barehanded » Sat Jun 20, 2020 11:49 am

Sorry for the late reply. Long week.

Never mentioned gybing. Also, I rarely cleat the main as that's one of the most common ways to take an unscheduled bath. In the club where I once taught lessons some people would tape the main-sheet cleat because so many students capsized that way. It was amazing how much debate was launched with a single piece of tape.

The tangle issue is mainly due to the position of the main sheet blocks at the very end corners of the stern. By default it wraps the main sheet around anything in front of it. I'm planning to move the motor mount to the other side of the transom but that will only help a little.

The setup you posted for your traveler is compelling. That might help but with the position of those same pulleys the traveler rope would still have a chance of snagging on the motor. I'm sure it would be an improvement though. I'll give that a try before I go all out-and re-rig the main. Thanks for that.

I'll post before and after pictures if I can snap them.
.
barehanded
 
Posts: 10
Joined: Tue Jun 16, 2020 11:39 pm
Location: Roseville, MN

Re: Changing the Mainsheet Rigging

Postby GreenLake » Sat Jun 20, 2020 12:31 pm

I changed the first block on the boom for a ratchet block to make it easier to hold the mainsheet w/o cleating it. Different ratchet block/rope combinations make for different holding power. At the time I did mine, the one I used was tested and found to have by far the most holding power. I find it works well for me on the "auto" setting, disabling the ratchet feature in light air.

18521818

As you can see, I use the same one for the jib sheet.

I will cleat both in moderate and steady conditions, but with sheet ready to hand to uncleat at a moment's notice.
~ green ~ lake ~ ~
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