Cost of Pro Repaint for DS1?

For issues common to different models of DaySailer.
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Re: Cost of Pro Repaint for DS1?

Postby GreenLake » Mon Oct 05, 2020 4:58 pm

If it's screws that go into wood, you can wax the screw and put some neat epoxy down into the screw hole. It will seal the wood and form a set of threads around the screw. For this technique, you do not wait for the epoxy to harden.

If it's a through bolt, you can still seal the hole with epoxy (neat, no fillers). Or you can overdrill the hole, fill it with epoxy stuffed with strands of glass and then redrill the correct size after the epoxy has cured.

All those techniques will seal the wood.
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Re: Cost of Pro Repaint for DS1?

Postby Anstigmat » Wed Oct 07, 2020 9:21 am

I'm looking at barrier coats right now. Is everyone doing an epoxy barrier coat before applying hull and bottom paint?

It seems like a good idea, but definitely a lot of work. I've been told to do an Epoxy coat, then sand again, then paint. However, the instructions say no sanding is necessary. So which is it? Does it just need to be scuff sanded before paint is applied?
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Re: Cost of Pro Repaint for DS1?

Postby tomodda » Wed Oct 07, 2020 5:45 pm

I'll let GL give you a "definitive answer," but when I did my hull all I did was scuff the gelcoat with 120 grit or so, then paint. Nothing to it. Make sure the surface is VERY clean of course - wipe with paint thinner and then some tacky stuff (I forget the name) to get off any remaining dust, lint,etc. Another sanding and cleaning between coats, I used 200-somethign grit for that. Two coats, done.
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Re: Cost of Pro Repaint for DS1?

Postby GreenLake » Thu Oct 08, 2020 2:47 pm

If you keep your boat in the water, a barrier coat is not a bad idea. Otherwise, if the gelcoat is in fine shape, do like Tom. If you had to fair extensively, coat in epoxy - esp. over fairing compound. You may not need to sand, if epoxy is painted over promptly or while green. Companies that do both paints and epoxies will have the best advice on how their products work, otherwise follow the instruction for the paint. If silent on epoxy, call them or e-mail.

PS: makers of fairing compound may recommend a coating with epoxy. If so, follow their suggestion.
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Re: Cost of Pro Repaint for DS1?

Postby Anstigmat » Thu Oct 08, 2020 7:41 pm

I got her turned over!!!!

Now the sanding starts. Lots of work to do before I'm done with this gal.

By the way, my wife came up with the idea that I should name her "Gal", short for Galileo. Before you get any high minded ideas about mathematics, I got the idea from Star Trek. In the original series, the shuttle craft is named Galileo.
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Re: Cost of Pro Repaint for DS1?

Postby tomodda » Thu Oct 08, 2020 10:36 pm

Congrats on getting her flipped! And yes, I remember the shuttle from TOS very well... showing my age.

GreenLake is right, if you do any faring with some sort of filled epoxy, then you should skim a coat of epoxy over it. Dunno if you have to skim the ENTIRE hull though, when I filled in all the nicks and dings on my hull, I just swabbed some extra epoxy over the fill. So far, so good. Of course, now I have some fresh dings! Overall, though, it's a very strong hull (Despite the oil-canning amidships). Good luck with your paint work!
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Re: Cost of Pro Repaint for DS1?

Postby GreenLake » Thu Oct 08, 2020 10:37 pm

I believe the correct reply on the naming suggestion is "whatever floats your boat" :)

Couldn't resist.

Boat names that can be read multiple ways are always interesting conversation starters at the boat ramp.
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Re: Cost of Pro Repaint for DS1?

Postby Anstigmat » Mon Oct 12, 2020 10:35 am

Ok I spent all day yesterday sanding the hull and bottom. A few more questions...

1. Do people usually remove the rubrail for painting? I could do this, but it would probably mean replacing the whole thing.

2. I'm down to the chipping and cracking bottom paint, which I'm having to scrape by hand. I'm planning to chipping at it until it basically stops being cracked or chipping off, then sanding again and priming over that. I'm sure it would be better to remove all the old bottom paint but I'm not racing and if I can just paint over it safely then that's what I'd like to do. Trying to remove it all would be a pretty miserable undertaking.

3. A friend of mine has a Lowe's paint sprayer, and he said I could use it. Is there any reason why I should not use a paint sprayer?

Still hoping I can get this done before it's too cold to paint but...time marches on. :D
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Re: Cost of Pro Repaint for DS1?

Postby GreenLake » Mon Oct 12, 2020 12:51 pm

  1. Don't take off the rubrail unless it needs replacement because of damage.
  2. There are chemical strippers. You may have to read up on them (I don't have relevant experience but that's what people like to use to ease the scraping and reduce the sanding).
  3. Some paint makers suggest that only professionals use sprayers for their paints. You would need to know what safety equipment is recommended for each paint.
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Re: Cost of Pro Repaint for DS1?

Postby Fly4rfun » Wed Oct 14, 2020 12:34 pm

A Lowe's paint sprayer will put on to much paint at one time, resulting in run's and sags, the paint needs to go on in multiple coats, first a light tack coat wait about 10-20 min until its tacky then apply second coat sl heavier, then a third foe good coverage. i would get a Harbor Freight cheep spray gun, borrow or rent a compressor, and practice first, plenty of you tube videos on how to spray paint.
"Sail Aweigh" 1966 DS1 #2675
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Re: Cost of Pro Repaint for DS1?

Postby Anstigmat » Fri Oct 23, 2020 10:34 am

I've been posting pics of my progress over on the Daysailer Association Facebook group. I'm no fan of FB, but the groups are pretty great. It's so easy to post photos and do quick updates...

I've sanded as much as I can stand. I've gouged the spider and larger than spider cracks. Next is going to be a combination of Marine-Tex, JB Marine Weld, and 3M Vinyl Ester fairing. Marine-Tex when the temp goes up a bit, it's under 55˚F here today in Maine. JB Weld for some of the Spider Cracks, and Vinyl Ester above the water line to fill the gaps and cracks.

I keep hearing mixed things about a barrier coat. I don't think I'm going to do it after all. Some 'online' people say you have to, then a friend (who is a bit sail-boat-obsessed and has done this a bunch of times) said he's never done it and has had no issues ever. I'm sure it's good on some level to do, but if I attempt it the boat will be on it's belly all winter while I wait for warmer temps to start applying paint. Gotta strike while the fiberglass is > 40˚F so they say.

Once it's back on the trailer I can rent a garage for the hull, I believe it's all accessible that way.

This just has not been very hard, but finding the time to dedicate to it has been. Frankly I still wish I could have just paid someone to do it...but who?! Oh well, it's been fun so far when I can dedicate time to it.
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