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how many quarts to paint a hull

PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2003 10:28 pm
by Roger
I am planning on painting over years of scratches and some unsightly cosmetic repairs by a previous owner. How may quarts of paint does it take, and what have people used in terms of brands or types of paint for the purpose of repainting the hull? What application techniques were used, foam brush, or short nap roller?

PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2003 11:34 pm
by Guest
Roger, I'd start out by getting a copy of the "boat painting guide and color card" that INTERLUX Paints prints every year, they have a pretty good guide to painting boats. I have used their Brightside Polyurethane (1-part) on a couple of my boats and it holds up pretty good. A 2-part paint will be better, but costs more. My 14' powerboat will need repainting this Spring, but that is after 8 seasons of use! You will need to dewax the hull first, then sand, fill scratches, prime, then at least 2 coats of finish paint. I'd estimate 2-3 quarts for the entire hull.
I used foam paint brushes to paint my boats with, but you may wish (especially if you go with a 2-part paint) to use a roller then tip off the paint with a brush, this takes two people but results in a very smooth finish comparable to spraying.

Rod Johnson, "SUNBIRD" (

PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2003 1:49 pm
by Guest
I talked to a friend that used to be a pro boat painter. They had used foam rollers to get a gloss finish with good sucess. I haven't tried them yet, but I think that may be a "trick" that the pros use.

Barry (

PostPosted: Thu Mar 06, 2003 2:18 pm
by Peter McMinn
Lots of traditionalists will shout me down, but a sprayed finish is far more uniform than one that has been rolled or brushed. 2-part polyurethane is hot stuff and maintaining a wet edge is crucial. This is best accomplished with an airless sprayer. I will be coating my deck soon with a 2-part poly. My sideline is house painting, so I know a guy with a with a heated, ventilated spraybooth big enough for the boat and trailer. If I were you, I'd look around for a similar operation. Of course you'll need to flip the boat, and do proper prep, but I assume you'd be doing this anyway. Use an airless sprayer and practice with water or cheap product and you'll get the technique down.
Protect your lungs and skin, but in the end, you'll find very little mess, and a finish like glass.

PostPosted: Fri Mar 07, 2003 12:36 am
by Roger
Unfortunatley, I am not in a place where a spray booth or equipment will be available. I do plan on flipping it however, and putting it up on sawhorses to fix some cosmetic blemishes then paint it, likely with roller and tip off brush. My question is thus, for people who have done this. Without motor, mast, boom, centerboard, rudder etc, (ie empty boat), how many people does it take to flip the boat over, and are there any tricks to this? I know people have keeled the boat onto it's side using the mast as a long lever, but that is not my question. Another way to ask the same question, is how much does the boat weigh without the mast, boom, rudder, centerboard etc.?

PostPosted: Fri Mar 07, 2003 11:41 am
by Guest
Roger -

I've flipped my boat over multiple times to work on the bottom....of course it's been on grass.

Typically, it's taken three people two do it. I usually follow the following process.

1. Pop the boat off the trailer.
2. Have three people stand at one side, distributed roughly about two feet forward of the back of the cuddy, the third about 2-3 feet forward of the transom.
3. Lift that side of the boat up, until the boat is approx. perpendicular to the ground.
4. With one person holding the boat vertical, have two people on the otherside.
5. Start lowering the boat.
6. Once the boat is past vertical, the third person dashes around to help lower the boat to the ground.

Reverse the process to flip it upright.

let me know if you have any questions.

Don Trop

Don Trop (

PostPosted: Fri Mar 07, 2003 12:09 pm
by Peter McMinn
Don, I'm flipping my boat in a couple of months and plan on following the process you prescribe. But how do you avoid crushing the cuddy roof? I've made a pair of sturdy horses to lay the boat on, but haven't quite realized how to get either end of the boat onto a horse so I don't harm the structure of the cuddy. Perhaps something happens between 5 & 6 in your list?

PostPosted: Fri Mar 07, 2003 1:29 pm
by Guest
I've flipped my DS over many times on to the cuddy with no damage at allexcept a scratched compass. Just be gentle as you lay it down. Once its over it shouldn't be a problem to lift it, one end at a time, high enough to work on

Matt Hammatt (

PostPosted: Fri Mar 07, 2003 3:51 pm
by Guest
I built a wooden frame on casters to flip my boat onto and could thus roll it into the garage to paint and outside to sand & epoxy & wash & all that messy stuff, sort of like sawhorses on wheels. I got about 6 or 7 guys to come over one day and bought hotdogs for lunch and we flipped the boat over and put it on the frame with no problem. As for paint, get the Interlux guide mentioned above, its at West Marine, etc. or is on the Interlux website as a pdf. Follow the directions religously, don't skimp on anything or skip any steps. Use "Brightside" one part polyurethane, also mentioned above, and brush it on with a quaility brush. It goes on like water and bleeds together to melt out the brush strokes. You will end up with a high gross mirror smooth finish. I know it is difficult to beleive with brushing, but its true. This paint is amazing. Mine has been on two seasons with the boat moored to a fresh water dock year round, Microlux bottom paint and Brightsides on top. It still looks brand new after I wash it. Its worth the time and trouble to make an old boat look like brand new.

jim (

PostPosted: Fri Mar 07, 2003 8:23 pm
by Guest
Why would one go through the trouble of inverting the hull 180 degrees with a possiblility of damging the hull when the boat can easily be laid over on its side when fully rigged by one person. This gives access to working on the board and accessing the entire bottom.

harris (

PostPosted: Sat Mar 08, 2003 12:45 am
by Roger
Harris, you raise a good point in reducing the number of people down to the owner only. With it over on its rail, will I be able to get at the grass side enough to do some cosmetic sanding/painting from underneath or do I have to swing the boat over to the other side to work on that side of the hull? If that is the case, how does brightsides work (blend in) if you let one side dry well enough so as not to mar the paint when switching sides? Is there a visible line where the wet edge dries along the keel line?

And to the other group of people (who use three people to flip their boat) do you take the cb out when doing this, or lash it up.

Finally, what do people use to reach inside the cb trunk to refresh the paint in there? I suspect that I may have a few hairline cracks that need sealing.

PostPosted: Sat Mar 08, 2003 3:18 am
by Guest
I sail saltwater and bottom paint my boat this way and maintain the board. When the boat is careeened you bring the mast head down to ground level so the boat is at more than 90 degrees and stays that way by itself. I would think that the hull sides could be painted with the boat upright and the underbody when careened. Any posible blend in area if it shows could be hidden with a bootstripe?

harris (

PostPosted: Sat Mar 08, 2003 8:24 am
by Guest
When you have the boat on the ground, why not stick a couple of cinderblocks alongside, and just below the hull/deck joint. That way, when you roll it on its side, it will roll up on the blocks, and leave the "lee" side exposed for painting. Plus, this will keep your boat from sinking deeper into its own quagmire each time it rains (as it is prone to do this time of year). I've never done it, but it seems like it ought to work.

Tim Dowell (

PostPosted: Sat Mar 08, 2003 11:24 pm
by Roger
That is really good thinking Tim! Then the top of the mast brings the hull 'overcenter' even more. I think I would still want to tie the mast top down to some kind of anchor in case the wind came up or something.

PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2003 1:45 pm
by Guest
One additional comment on leaving the boat on its side... The mast isn't meant to act as a long term "kickstand," and the constant lateral stress that would be imposed on that portion of the mast which extends above the shrouds is probably a bad thing. I would arange a short support of some sort (a saw "pony"?) that could be placed under the mast where the shrouds attach. That would put the stress on the shroud and hull, and not on the mast.

Tim Dowell (