spinnaker rigging - odd question

Moderator: GreenLake

spinnaker rigging - odd question

Postby calden » Mon Jan 28, 2008 4:50 pm

Hey all;

I'm going to rig my DSI for a spinnaker. I've got a specific requirement, though, that creates an odd question.

I've got home made cushions on the outer decks:
358

I did this so I could hike out, but didn't want to cut down the coamings.

Because these are in place (not permanently - they come right off, but I like to leave them on) I can't run any spinnaker control sheets fore from standup blocks alongside the coamings. So I'm going to run them UNDER the outer decks to a turning block then through the coaming , coming out near the jib blocks.

So here's my question: In thinking about this, I can see that the control lines coming from the spinnaker (guy and sheet) FIRST need to go aft to blocks. Option #1 is to run them to standup blocks, THEN to thru-deck blocks installed immediately in front of the standup blocks, which will route the line under the deck.

Option #2 would be to just run the sheets to thru-deck blocks, omitting standup blocks altogether.

Would option #2 work? I don't know how much side-to-side movement is involved in flying a spinnaker. The movement of the sail is so far forward of the blocks at the stern that I can see how the lateral movement would not be much back there, just a few degrees each way, and thus I wouldn't need standup blocks.

Any ideas? See what I mean?

Thanks,
Carlos
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calden
 
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Postby algonquin » Mon Jan 28, 2008 5:37 pm

I'm not sure I would rig the lines below the deck to avoid the cushions. The turning blocks near the rear coaming help to give that long angle of control and add shape to the spinnaker. Most spinnaker controls do go from the sail directly back to a turning block on the rear coaming then forward to a cleat or cam cleat. Shortening this route by dropping below deck to quickly will effect the sail shape and control. I would just leave the lines slack and lay them along the seat backs. You may just want to install a set of cam cleats closer to the spinnaker blocks on the rear coaming.
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Postby calden » Mon Jan 28, 2008 8:15 pm

Okay, I don't think I described it properly.

The sheet and guy would indeed go all the way back to the stern. I'm not advocating shortening the sail-to-stern distance. I'm asking if I need a turning block at that point, or if the sheet could duck into the deck via a thru-deck block.

Thanks,

Carlos
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calden
 
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Postby algonquin » Tue Jan 29, 2008 4:30 pm

Oooohhh ! I sim what you’re sammin, I mean I see what you are saying. :lol:

I agree with what you stated about the lateral movement not being very much that far back from the sail. You could eliminate the stand-ups and install thru decks but I would use one that is larger than the line that you are using. For instance if you are using 1/4 inch line a 3/8 thru deck block would give you some wiggle room that allows for some lateral movement in the lines. Brad
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Postby shawn » Wed Jan 30, 2008 10:51 pm

You could use a bullseye fairlead right in front of the thru-deck to keep the line in the right place. This is what I used right in front of a cheek block mounted on the stern to get the right angle of attack. I used the black resin one that they use on Sunfish. With the clew of the spinnaker on the leeeard side, there can be quite an angle off the stern when on a beam reach.

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Thanks!

Postby calden » Thu Jan 31, 2008 12:11 pm

Great responses. Thanks, guys, for taking the time.

Shawn - did you mount the fairlead immediately in front of the cheek block? And how far in front - couple of inches?

Carlos
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calden
 
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Postby shawn » Thu Jan 31, 2008 11:47 pm

Yeah I put in about an inch in front and lined it up so the line would feed through correctly. It works really well and the line slips through real easily. It generally approaches at less than 35-40 degrees (?) so the angle isn't too severe. Good Luck

Shawn
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Postby calden » Fri Feb 01, 2008 11:36 am

Shawn:

One more question: In saying that you "lined it up so the line would feed through correctly," where exactly did you place the fairlead? It sounds as if it wasn't DIRECTLY in front of the block but rather out (?) to the side a bit. I'm assuming here that the spin sheet's direction of movement would be out and away from the centerline of the boat.) Would it be possible to do a quick sketch showing approximate placement?

I've never used a spinnaker before and can't precisely picture the angles involved.

Thanks,
Carlos
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calden
 
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Postby Phill » Fri Feb 01, 2008 8:35 pm

Here is a picture or two of the set up I have used for the last 18 years. I thought I had better pics posted but hope these help.

gallery/image_page.php?album_id=1&image_id=100
This shot shows the through deck blocks near the transom, that are the first point the spinnaker sheet touches after leaving the spinnaker clew. If I was to re-rig, I would move these blocks forward about 12" to be slightly in front of the mooring cleat at the aft end of the coaming, to prevent the sheet from flipping up and catching over the top of the boom end. (very awkward to undo gracefully :) )

gallery/image_page.php?album_id=1&image_id=96
In the lower left corner there is a through deck block used to turn the spinnaker sheet out from under the deck and toward the crew. It is the one just aft and below the jib sheet track.

I have two small Servo 11 cleats mounted to the top of the CB trunk in line with the coaming exit blocks to be used for cleating the sheet and guy durning jibes. I strongly suggest trying to keep the sheet (the line coming from the leeward corner of the spinaker) uncleated most of the time. I used the CB trunk cleats for the guy (the line from the weather corner and spinaker pole) for the first few years when sailing with my kids. They were not strong enough to use a guy cleat near the shroud, so I would set and cleat the guy from the skippers position.

If you look in my gallery or the Tech info/rigging guide section of this site, you should be able to see other pictures from different angles that may help. Sorry that I havent posted better shots of this set up.

Calden hope this helps

phill
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Postby shawn » Fri Feb 01, 2008 10:03 pm

Calden,

I've uploaded some pictures of my daysailer which might explain things a little better. They're in my personal gallery

Shawn
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Postby calden » Sat Feb 02, 2008 12:24 am

Thanks very much, guys! Very helpful. Phill, that setup looks like what I'm thinking of doing.

As soon as it gets unfrozen around here I'll pull the boat out from storage next to the garage and get going on this project.

Carlos
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calden
 
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Postby Phill » Sat Feb 02, 2008 4:45 pm

Calden, Thanks, I like the minimalist approach on most of my rigging.
I have added more pics to my personell gallery.
Hope these help.
phill
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