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Traveler system

PostPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 6:56 pm
by lbdavis
I'm a Sailstar Explorer owner, but I thought I'd share this with you all in case someone finds it useful. Or silly. Or redundant. (I looked around and couldn't find anyone else that used this system, so I feared it wouldn't work.)

I have a vang and end boom sheeting on the boat, but wanted to be able to pull the boom to windward when needed. I liked the simplicity of the rope traveler system so I just added two clam cleats.

These clams are located as to not interfere w/ the normal movement of the rope traveler. However, by pulling the rope under the windward block toward the leeward side and locking it into the clam, the boom is moved to windward.

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It worked exceptionally well. The clams held* even in gusty conditions.

*It was tricky to get the line to "bite" in the cleat with one hand. I am going to put the clams on 3/4" blocks to make it easier to get the necessary downward motion needed to lock the line in (with one hand).

I think this last modification will make a pretty effective, cheap solution.

PostPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 7:54 pm
by GreenLake
Interesting approach.

Perhaps it might be a better idea to use a different type of cleats, for example cam cleats? On the transom, there should be enough space and I've always found it much easier to get a line to "bite" in cam cleats than in V cleats.

PostPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 9:53 pm
by lbdavis
GreenLake wrote:Interesting approach.

Perhaps it might be a better idea to use a different type of cleats, for example cam cleats? On the transom, there should be enough space and I've always found it much easier to get a line to "bite" in cam cleats than in V cleats.


I thought about using cam cleats, but decided against them due to cost and size. While there's plenty of room to mount a cam cleat, it would have required angling the line further aft in order to have the cam far enough removed to not interfere with the natural movement of the traveler when not engaged.

This would have caused an issue in that: with the cam leading the cleated line further aft (vis-a-vis the current clam cleat's location), the line would be coming out of the block at a bad angle. The original block does not rotate very far (visible in close up pic).

I suppose a new swivel block would re$olve that. :)

Anyway, raising up my clam cleats on wood blocks is going to cause the same issue, so you make a valid point.

I'll study the dimensions/mechanics/space closely on the next sail.

PostPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 10:08 pm
by GreenLake
You might be able get away with a smaller size cam cleat than you may have been thinking about. Looking merely at your photos, there seems to be enough room forward of your line. I'm sure once you look at actual hardware, you'll easily be able to sort out the geometry and make your decision accordingly.

PostPosted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 11:25 am
by algonquin
lbdavis wrote:
GreenLake wrote:Interesting approach.

Perhaps it might be a better idea to use a different type of cleats, for example cam cleats? On the transom, there should be enough space and I've always found it much easier to get a line to "bite" in cam cleats than in V cleats.


I thought about using cam cleats, but decided against them due to cost and size.


Try Duck Works for great prices on a variety of hardware including a selection of cam cleats. Brad
http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/cl ... /index.htm

PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 8:40 am
by jdubes
The more i look at this, aren't you going to need to work both cleats to bring the boom windward?

It seems that as you put tension on to pull the traveler windward, your also going to increase your mainline tension. thoughts?

PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 7:05 pm
by GreenLake
In another thread, K.C. Walker writes about the virtues of a fixed bridle.