Topping Lift / New Sail / Boom placement

[GreenLake]

I would argue that the topping lift does not usually need to be adjusted all that often....

[TIM WEBB]

My TL is never adjusted, because it's non-adjustable. Nor does it need to be. If I ever need to shorten it (boom tent), I give it a wrap or three around the end of the boom. Bam. Done.

[GreenLake]

In light airs, you may want to support the weight of the boom. That might require a tad more precision than a wrapping method could deliver. Otherwise, I like your simple approach.

[TIM WEBB]

But the purpose of the topping lift is to support the boom while the sail is down, is it not? I've never been on any boat where the TL is used for sail shape/control ...

[GreenLake]

Ah, but I have!

It's one in the bag of tricks if you sail in very light conditions.

You should try it sometime.

[seandwyer]

So, how exactly do you use the topping lift to adjust the sails? I'm interested in this.

[jeadstx]

I originally installed a topping lift to support the boom when not sailing. I made it adjustable so I could get the boom high enough when rowing the boat to prevent the boom hitting me in the head.

John

[GreenLake]

So, how exactly do you use the topping lift to adjust the sails? I'm interested in this.

When the air is really light, the boom may flatten the sail excessively simply by weight. Nudging up on the topping lift can allow the sail to assume a better shape (for upwind). This is an issue in those situations where the wind is not strong enough to shape the sail and where you need to use other tricks to cause the sail to be in the correct shape, so that any airflow that hits the sail can produce lift. Another common trick is to heel the boat to leeward so that the sails will not hang straight, but form a curve to leeward, as usually.

That's different from what you see Lasers do on light wind runs, where they heel to windward to get more of the sail area higher up (where laminar air flow is faster).

The DS boom is heavy enough that using a TL in those conditions should be effective, but while I'm familiar with this technique, I haven't tried it on my DS (don't have a TL installed there yet).

[K.C. Walker]

I've used the topping lift trick in light air to get more twist along with healing to leeward for shape. Of course, these days if the UPS can't get me going, it's time for the Johnson wind. And of course, that's when I use the topping lift now.

[talbot]

Greenlake's method seems fine, 'tho I like having all my lines leading to a central control area aft of the mast. BTW, it's not the line down the mast that tangles. It's the TL itself, when you bring it forward under sail, and are careless about attaching it in relation to the shrouds or other lines.

[jdoorly]

I have an adjustable non-adjustable topping lift. The top is directly fastened to the mast truck, the bottom reeves through an eye in the boom end fitting and then attaches back to the topping lift line about 2 feet up with a rolling hitch. I set it almost taught when close hauled and then may not touch it again until end of season (I trailer sail). But, if for some reason I want to raise the boom, like for a boom tent, I just push the rolling hitch higher. Back before I used dyneema I had a problem with the line stretch causing a 'bouncy' boom which could not be trusted as a handhold.

[GreenLake]

If I recall you have developed that fancy setup where you can leave your boom attached to the mast. Most other trailer sailors would have to re-reeve such a topping lift each time. Hence the attraction of various snap shackles..

With Dyneema, e.g. in the form of Amsteel, it's super easy to splice an eye into the end of the line so that it can be worked open, but pulls shut under tension. That eye can then go around a diamond knot on some other line - for example a short line fixed to the boom, or a short piece of line fixed to the mast ring. The latter technique is what I use to tie my jib halyard to the mast ring (or to the head). In both places I have a short toggle ending in a diamond knot, and I just move the eye splice from one or the other, like a shackle.

Same thing can be used when tying off a TL, for those who like to keep it out of the way while sailing (or while trailering).

[jdoorly]

Yes, GL, perhaps I should class my boat as a DS4! My newest project is replacing all wire with dyneema. I did some pre-stretching and everything seems to have found its place now. Interestingly the shrouds sound such a clear musical note that I can tune them with my $9 guitar tuner! But, I still need an $90 Loos to correlate the pitch to pounds

[TIM WEBB]

Well now, I guess you learn something new every day on this forum! I know I do. So far with The Red Witch, I've only ever used the halyard/outhaul/vang controls, as well as the ballast shifts described above, to optimize sail shape for very light air. My TL is clear-coated 1/16" SS cable, but I sure like the idea of using Dyneema (or Spectra, which I have access to at work) for the type of adjustable TL being discussed here. Hmmm ... one more thing to tinker with!

[K.C. Walker]

I love it, tuning up your rigging with a guitar tuner! Hopefully you won't have to change your strings as often as I do on my guitars.