quick rigging jib sheets

Moderator: GreenLake

quick rigging jib sheets

Postby K.C. Walker » Thu Apr 26, 2012 4:23 pm

The thread on boom storage brought up some interesting ideas for fast rigging that I liked. One of them was leaving the jib sheets rigged and then just attaching the clew. Soft shackles are something I did not know about and will definitely try out.

Here are a couple of interesting videos that I thought I would share. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=en ... gLSyzlfQUk http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jH66tGsWv_Y

It seems to me like a loop through the clew capturing a stopper ball should work but may be it would shake loose. Any thoughts on that?
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Postby GreenLake » Fri Apr 27, 2012 1:42 pm

Check out the L-36.com site, with obvious links to various interesting topics, including soft shackles.
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Postby K.C. Walker » Fri Apr 27, 2012 8:58 pm

Thanks GreenLake! This should get me where want to go.
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Postby GreenLake » Fri Apr 27, 2012 9:48 pm

One way to use soft shackles is to simply make a loop. The way to use this on a sheet would be to make a Prusik knot out of that loop. The loop holds firmly in the center of the sheet, but the bit that sticks out can be opened and attacked to the jib clew like a shackle.

I forgot whether L-36.com shows the details of that technique, but they definitely show the splices involved.

Using hollow braid (amsteel) these splices are actually quite easy to do. Much, much simpler than what's needed for double braid.

I was a bit suspicious at first that the Prusik knot would keep in place (esp. when not under load). I put a bit of black tape as a mark around the center of the sheet. The knot has not moved in several seasons.
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simple soft shackle

Postby dannyb9 » Sat Apr 28, 2012 12:34 pm

i saw greenlake's elegant soft shackle posted a while ago and made a very simple version. its made of a loop of 5 mm spectra core line (kinda stiff) with a simple 'double overhand knot' at the ends. i've been using it for about a year. i sail often. no failures yet : )
Image
and


Image
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Postby K.C. Walker » Tue May 01, 2012 9:09 am

Green Lake

I've been playing with some left over Amsteel line that I had from last year making a bridal. Yes, you are right, the stuff is dead easy to splice. Thanks for the tips!
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Postby K.C. Walker » Tue May 01, 2012 9:13 am

Danny,

That's really brilliant! It's so easy! I put one together and I can see it's going to work perfectly. Talk about simple elegance. Take GreenLake's simple and elegant and then simplify.
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Postby GreenLake » Tue May 01, 2012 5:38 pm

Sweet!
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Postby GreenLake » Tue May 01, 2012 5:43 pm

K.C. Walker wrote:...you are right, the stuff is dead easy to splice. Thanks for the tips!


I spliced an eye on a thimble and now use amsteel instead of wire on my trailer winch. No more meat-hooks! Has held up well for a number of seasons by now. I was put on to it by a guy at the shop when I tried to buy replacement wire. Either 3/16 or 1/4" not sure which, but probably either one would suspend the boat...
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Postby jdoorly » Tue May 01, 2012 11:57 pm

I replaced my 3/32" 7x19 wire cable forestay with 1/8" dyneema (Amsteel Blue, 2500 pound breaking strength) last year and it's working out great! No more split ends! I converted to it after a swage let go.
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Postby navahoIII » Wed May 02, 2012 9:47 am

Wow, those two pictures do show an elegant solution! How is it that the loops don't separate at some point?

At first I used a prusik knot through the jib clew (one long sheet!) but didn't like the asymetry of it so I changed it to a bowline (same one long sheet) with about a 4" loop. It isn't symetrical either but the balance seems better.
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soft shackle

Postby dannyb9 » Wed May 02, 2012 11:06 am

hi navajo, the 'shackle' has a somewhat snug fit, so there isnt much play to allow it to deform. these spectra lines dont stretch. plus it is a somewhat stiff line and it has some 'memory'. you can see from the pics how it holds its shape even without tension. be advised, i am a poor retired artist so if your shackle fails, a lawsuit would be fruitless ; )
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Postby TIM WEBB » Wed May 02, 2012 11:18 am

Ah'm a likin' this thread! Had switched to a swivel snap shackle for a jibsheet quick connect, and while it doesn't bang around on the cuddy deck, it has been scratching the front of the mast ... :x

Think I'll try one of these. It's called a SLINK (Soft LINK), and we use them in place of stainless oval rapide links to attach suspension lines to risers on parachutes (they get doubled through the lines and riser loop, and the little tab lives inside the riser loop):

1281

Here's how they work:

1274 1275
1276(tab goes through loop)
1277 (other side)

They're made from 1000 lb spectra, finger-trapped and bartacked.

Will try both of these arrangements and see which I like the best:

1278 1279

Now that I think about it, there are probably a couple other locations on the boat where I'd rather have a soft link than a metal one - I just haven't found them yet! :lol:
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Postby GreenLake » Wed May 02, 2012 4:39 pm

navahoIII wrote:How is it that the loops don't separate at some point?


There's a simple trick to making Danny's solution more positive locking. You can find it on the L-36.com site. Here's the image:
Image
Ignore the stuff on the right, that is, just pretend it's the same thing as in Danny's first picture (which is kind of mirror image to this one by comparison).

The twist is shown on the left, where one part of the Amsteel has been pushed through the other, forming a small eye.

That eye can be worked open (very easily) when the knot is to pass through and then snugged up again (tension will pull it closed, if it's at the correct location at the very tip of the loop). But unlike a simple loop it's much less likely to fall open on its own, so the knot is held more positively.

Because Amsteel is so slippery, the eye should open again, just as easily after it has been loaded.

You do not need any dedicated tools to do this, for poking through like that, a simple "cone" of electrical tape will be enough to get the end started through the hole, and something like a Phillips screwdriver (or a chop stick, but not the blunt-end, disposable kind) would be enough to dig the hole.

You "push" on the rope from both sides of the hole, that opens the braid and makes it easy to form the hole.
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Postby jdoorly » Wed May 02, 2012 11:00 pm

How do they make these soft shackles so short, my splicing guru demands 12 inches of bury for each eye!
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