Fixed triangle traveller

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Fixed triangle traveller

Postby Guest » Fri Oct 13, 2000 6:14 pm

Finally I want to re-rig my traveller. Phil Root's "fixed triangle with a hook" looks simple and effective. Has anyone (maybe Phil himself) got advice on, or improvements for installing the fixed triangle? I am anxious to know "what kind of hook? Why not a jam cleat, or some other effective simple device? Mounted...inside the coaming? to a block on the floor?
And that made me think of the spinnaker halyard. Is the halyard jam cleat fixed to a block that has been glued, or glasssed in to the hull? How was it done?

Barry (BFK-at-sdcity.sannet.gov)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Thu Jan 11, 2001 1:42 am

The hook was used originally as a quick way to rig something and go racing. When I started to have some success, I left it to prove that lots of rigging was not needed to have fun with the DS. I did replace the brass hook with a double fairlead and camcleat that does the exact same thing, but cost more. The spinaker halyard cleat is mounted to a block of wood (piece of coaming that was cut down) fiberglassed to the floor. Some have the cleat on the aft edge of the CB trunk, and I think it has advantagves there.

Phill Root (phillrt-at-msn.com)
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Postby Guest » Fri Jan 12, 2001 2:02 pm

Barry,

A simple and reversible way to attach hardware to the hull is to use sealant as the adhesive. The $2/tube stuff from the hardware store will work. I usually use a block of plywood thick enough to take the screws needed to attach the desired hardware. Then if you don't like the placement, the block can be removed by sliding a putty knife under the block. A heat gun helps in removal. No holes, screws, fiberglass or epoxy needed.

Bob Torson DS 4000 (safehbr-at-pioneer.net)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Fri Jan 12, 2001 7:23 pm

Thank you! The "temporary" attachment is a great trick, another one of those "why didn't I think of that " ideas. I'll give it a try when we dry out this weekend.
One last question. If the double fairlead is mounted in line with the "stock" turning blocks, at the centerline of the boat, and the cam cleat is mounted at the forward edge of the transom "deck", does this arrangement allow enough adjustability for the triangle? It would seem like it would only offer a range of 6", or so, before pulling both sides of the triangle through the cleat.
Thanks for your help. I hope to minimize my trials and errors, since it takes me so darn long to get to all these projects.


Barry (BFK-at-sdcity.sannet.gov)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Fri Jan 12, 2001 7:51 pm

If you tie the triangle loop knot on the deck so that with the knot against the double fairlead the FIXED position of the block at the top of the triangle should be about 22-25 inches above the double fairlead. (some boats have longer/shorter masts making this measurement different for each). AT the knot you then have a tail of line going thru the double fairlead about 4 ft long. When the line is cleated at the knot the 'traveler" is centered for most sailing conditions. When you need to let the traveler down, heavy weather 6" - ?, or down wind completely release all of the tail to let the top block go to leeward as far as it wants. (don't forget to set your vang to keep the boom from cocking up when reaching and running.

Phill Root (phillrt-at-msn.com)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Mon Jan 15, 2001 12:50 am

Thanks for relieving my "Brain Lock". Sometimes I even stun myself. "Oh. The knot goes on THAT side". And to think I used to build things for a living.... If you're at the High Sierra regatta and you see some charging for the starting line stern first.....flag me down!
I really appreciate your assistance. BFK

Barry (KellBTL-at-AOL.com)
Guest
 


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