Jib sheets

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Jib sheets

Postby kokko » Wed Jun 27, 2012 12:17 pm

My wife complained about the force required to haul in the jib sheets when the wind is up. To reduce the effort required I added two harken microblocks to the clew of the sail. I added eyestraps from the coamings so now the jib sheet are attached to the coamings, pass through the block at the clew, then back to the jib block at the coamings. This gives us a 2:1 purchase, although the sheets are longer. Remember work = force x distance.
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Jib sheets

Postby kokko » Wed Jun 27, 2012 12:21 pm

My wife took exception to my original post noting that too complained about the force required since we trade off handling the jib
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Jib Sheets

Postby Mike Gillum » Thu Jun 28, 2012 12:36 am

I have a pair of Harken 40mm Ratchet on the Harken Pin Stop Jib Track on #2772 that certainly help a lot with holding power but a Harken Big Dinghy Block on the Barberhauler helps to reduce the friction.
The Jib Sheet runs from the 40mm Ratchet to a Bullseye with SS Insert bolted to the thwart and a Harken HK 150 Cleat bolted to the thwart with a riser and wedge under it to achieve the proper angle.
A couple of years ago I spliced a SS Thimble into a couple of pieces of 1/8" Spectra for the Barberhaulers to reduce weight. It took only a couple of tacks for my wife to determine that I was switching back to the Harken Big Dinghy Block on the Barberhauler as there was so much friction she couldn't pull the Jib all the way in 6-8 knots.
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Re: Jib Sheets

Postby GreenLake » Thu Jun 28, 2012 12:02 pm

Mike Gillum wrote:The Jib Sheet runs from the 40mm Ratchet to a Bullseye with SS Insert bolted to the thwart and a Harken HK 150 Cleat bolted to the thwart with a riser and wedge under it to achieve the proper angle.

How much of a wedge do you need? more than the standard wedges that are sold with the cleats? I use those wedges, but without the the bullseye, so mine are tilted the other way. That does require some downward pressure on the sheet to cleat it - usually applied with a foot - but I've been thinking about doing something more in line what you describe, because it's too easy to uncleat the jib accidentally the way I have it.
Mike Gillum wrote:A couple of years ago I spliced a SS Thimble into a couple of pieces of 1/8" Spectra for the Barberhaulers to reduce weight. It took only a couple of tacks for my wife to determine that I was switching back to the Harken Big Dinghy Block on the Barberhauler as there was so much friction she couldn't pull the Jib all the way in 6-8 knots.

Thanks, Mike. You saved me the trouble to experiment with that. And, given the size and weight, of my monster-jib sheets, that would not have been the best point to save weight.

Which brings me to a related question. While we are discussing jib sheets, what diameter and type of rope are you (and others) using? At 3/8" mine have the advantage of not cutting into your hands, but the cover is very smooth. While that helps with gliding through barber blocks, it also requires a firmer grip. And the rope is very heavy - even for its diameter (no, it's not actually lead filled :roll:). Don't know what kind it is, it's something I picked up as a remainder for some other purpose and it was just the right length when I needed a jib sheet.

Has anyone experimented with splicing some Amsteel into double braid to have a lighter section of the sheet near the clew?

Also, do you use a continuous line for the sheet, or two separate sheets. K.C.(?) mentioned recently he has an Amsteel tail spliced in to connect clew to a continuous sheet? I use a soft shackle for the same purpose (it's 18" long when open, which is just long enough to make a Prusik knot around the sheet.
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