replacing standing rigging

Moderator: GreenLake

Re: replacing standing rigging

Postby seandwyer » Wed May 29, 2013 5:24 pm

Skippa wrote:so I ordered two new headstay stemheads and mounted them on port and starboard coamings. Also followed the recomended upgrade of 1 inch SS tube upgrade under the coaming to spread the load of the rigging."


Kevin--I would be interested in seeing this set up if you have pictures. So you actually mounted your shrouds to the coamings and then installed some sort of stainless backer bar? I've never heard of that before. Doesn't it change the angle of the shrouds a bit? Do you feel it is as sturdy as the original chainplates? Maybe I am not understanding exactly what you mean.
Sean
DS1 - 3203
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Re: replacing standing rigging

Postby GreenLake » Wed May 29, 2013 7:24 pm

Moved this to the "Rigging" section, as it isn't all that DSII specific and probably can be found more easily here.

What skippa means, if I read his post right, is that some DS have a SS tube along the inside of the hull/deck joint that takes up the strain from the chainplates. I recall reading about something like that. It does not imply an unusual location for the chainplates.
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Re: replacing standing rigging

Postby Alan » Wed May 29, 2013 8:11 pm

jdoorly is using pieces of stainless tubing under the edge, where the deck meets the hull, as backing plates for the chainplates. This works because the DSII has a semicircular lip around the edge that a piece of one-inch tubing fits into neatly. (The DSI might be similar; I'm just not as familiar with it.)

I thought about doing the same thing, and even went so far as to buy a piece of tubing with the idea of splitting it. When I found out how hard it was to drill stainless, I asked a couple of laser cutting shops about splitting it for me. One of them said "Try a machine shop" and the other was willing to do it - for $180 plus tax.

My current plan is to make semicircular filler pieces to go under the edge, with flat steel plates below them.
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Re: replacing standing rigging

Postby Thomasjbrothersjr » Wed May 29, 2013 9:33 pm

If you are going to trailer sail it I would recommend the forestay with the quick connect lever. Works upper slick.

TBone
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D&R picture
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"It's not the towering sail, but the unseen wind that moves the ship"

1983 O'Day Daysailer II "KALEIGH B"
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Re: replacing standing rigging

Postby seandwyer » Thu May 30, 2013 1:12 am

Yes!! I love the thought of that thing. I may buy one in a another season or two. I've been looking for just the connector piece locally and the sailing shop has no knowledge of such a contraption.

While on topic--not to take things down the weeds too far--but without a gauge how do you guys judge the tension of your rigging when you raise and lower it on a regular basis? Mine seems to be a little different every time I put it up and I'm always second guessing whether I've got it exactly as I had the previous time.
Sean
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Re: replacing standing rigging

Postby seandwyer » Thu May 30, 2013 1:17 am

Alan wrote: (The DSI might be similar; I'm just not as familiar with it.)


No--the DS1 doesn't have that semi circle shaped area, but I know what you are talking about. I misunderstood what was meant by coamings. To me, that's the wooden boards along the rails. I guess that does make sense now that I think about it, although I'm not sure how you fasten the tubing in there other than screws through the deck.
Sean
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Re: replacing standing rigging

Postby GreenLake » Thu May 30, 2013 3:42 am

The usual means for fastening the chainplates in a DS1 would seem to be screws through the hull, although, it seems (I don't have mine at hand right now) that there's a part of the chainplates that also rests on the underside of the deck (i.e. they have "shoulders" that are wider than the slit through which they exit the deck.
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Re: replacing standing rigging

Postby Skippa » Thu May 30, 2013 7:39 am

Sorry for the poor description of my installation.
GL was correct. I simply replaced the original side chainplates with standard headstay stemheads. The original chainplates had holes that were smaller than the clevis pins supplied with the new stays and turnbuckles. I didn't want to use smaller clevis pins or enlarge the existing holes to accomodate the larger pins so I replaced the chainplates. I did have to drill two new holes thru the deck due to the wider spacing between the mounting holes on the new hardware. I filled the old holes with epoxy, sanded them smooth and touched them up with a spot of paint. I used larger bolts also for the new hardware.
I had a 9 inch stainless steel tube cut horizontally in half and used one each in the curve under the deck/hull joint as has been discussed on this website. Mine is a DSII.
Kevin
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Re: replacing standing rigging

Postby Alan » Thu May 30, 2013 10:51 am

Skippa,

Who cut the tubing for you, and how? Was it expensive?

Thanks,

Alan
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Re: replacing standing rigging

Postby CapeHazeSailor » Thu May 30, 2013 12:24 pm

I have also replaced the chainplates with headstay stemheads. These I felt were stronger. The original chainplates have a backup that is located under the lip of the hull. Rather small, plus I found that on my boat the port side had pulled through the hull requiring repair. In place of the backup plate I used 3/4" stainless tubing, 8" long drilled to accomodate the fasteners for the stemheads.
1976 DSII #8074
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Re: replacing standing rigging

Postby jeadstx » Thu May 30, 2013 1:55 pm

I, very carefully drilled out one of the two holes on my chainplates. I haven't had a problem with it. I was told that it wouldn't be a problem, as I recall it was from a conversation with Rudy at D&R, but may have been another source. It was a while back.

John
1976 Day Sailer II, #8075 - Completed the 2011, 2012, and 2013 Texas 200
1952 Beetle Boat Swan Catboat
Early Rhodes 19
1973 Mariner 2+2, #2607 - Completed 2014, 2015 and 2016 Texas 200
1969 Day Sailer I, #3229
Fleet 135; Canyon Lake, Texas
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Re: replacing standing rigging

Postby K.C. Walker » Thu May 30, 2013 2:02 pm

I drilled my chain plates for the bigger clevis pins. No problems here except that it kind of trashed my drillbit. Stainless… it's hard stuff.
KC Walker, DS 1 #7002
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Re: replacing standing rigging

Postby jeadstx » Thu May 30, 2013 2:25 pm

When I drilled mine I went incramentally in size to get the hole size I needed. Kept me from destroying my bits.

John
1976 Day Sailer II, #8075 - Completed the 2011, 2012, and 2013 Texas 200
1952 Beetle Boat Swan Catboat
Early Rhodes 19
1973 Mariner 2+2, #2607 - Completed 2014, 2015 and 2016 Texas 200
1969 Day Sailer I, #3229
Fleet 135; Canyon Lake, Texas
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Re: replacing standing rigging

Postby Alan » Thu May 30, 2013 8:08 pm

I tried enlarging some screw holes and ended up with a smaller drill bit instead of a larger diameter hole. I've since read a fair amount on the subject, so maybe next time will work better.
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Re: replacing standing rigging

Postby TIM WEBB » Thu May 30, 2013 9:44 pm

Had the same issue with the new stays from D&R, and didn't have the cajones to drill out the chainplates, so I put captive pin bow shackles between the chainplates and the larger clevis pins on the new turnbuckle toggles. I guess every setup has a "weakest link", and I'm for sure going to keep an eye on those connections for a while to make sure nothing is showing any signs of imminent failure ...
Tim Webb
1979 DS2 10099 The Red Witch
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