DaySailer.org Forum

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I'm no expert on paints--is two-part urethane different from the two-part polyurethane (e.g., AwlGrip or Interlux Perfection) usually recommended for topsides? I only ask because Don Casey's Sailboat Refinishing warns against spraying 2-part polyurethane unless you have professional-level experience and safety equipment. Apparently they are extremely toxic, beyond what you can protect against with a typical respirator mask.

Well… Good point Talbot, maybe I should delete my post. This is the way I would do it but I do have the safety equipment. And… I did not mention that part of the equation.

talbot wrote:I refinished a corroded aluminum boom, and it's worked well. It doesn't look like professional powdercoating or spray, but it's held up. I sanded, used a spray-can aluminum primer, then applied 1-part Petit EasyPoxy white enamel. The next season, I did the mast to match. In both cases, I removed all fittings prior to painting. It helped to mount the spars (end caps off) on spindles on the work bench (boom) and yard trees (mast). Otherwise, yes, you can get some drip and sag on the low side.

The thing is the sanding. When you sand, you destroy whatever surface existed, but aluminum start to oxidize nearly immediately. That fresh oxide is what you need the aluminum primer for, if I understand what I read on some metalworking forums. However, if your boom is not corroded, the anodized surface should still be intact and supposedly only needs a good cleaning/degreasing.

If the boom to be painted is in good condition, just anodized black, then it would be worth researching this a bit more deeply, because it would be silly to have to work extra hard to remove something that from all description is actually beneficial.

If you do decide to spray polyurethane please keep in mind that a cartridge respirator does not supply adequate protection. You need a supplied air hood and full body coverage because the chemicals are absorbed through the skin and surface of the eyes as well.