Single line reefing

[GreenLake]

Came across this post on another forum, and wanted to share the link:http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/sailboats/single-line-reefing-44203.html#post573261.

It includes discussion of some interesting setups:

[jeadstx]

I was using a system similar to "A", but have modified it a bit (and still working on it). I have found that the boom tends to drop more than I like. With the addition of a reefing hook, I have eliminated the front line and added a cleat at the forward end of the boom for the line coming from the aft end of the boom.

John

[GreenLake]

My system resembles "A", except it's external to the boom.

The reef line is always drooping which makes it a bit of a hazard, I find, so ideally routing it inside the boom would solve that. Not sure I'm willing to incur the complication. But something like "C" would then be an interesting solution. (Although, I'm sure, a reef hook also works well, it does not eliminate the drooping part of the line.).

[jeadstx]

I would think the drooping line along the boom could be helped by installing a fair lead or eye loop mid boom.

John

[Interim]

I am using a reef hook at the tack, and attach my outhaul with a shackle that I can move up to the new clew when reefed. This seemed easy enough the one time I used it.

What are the advantages of the systems that use a dedicated line at each end? Is it a matter of more control pulling the sail down? Or is my outhaul that is pulling back and down not as good as a line that pulls mostly down?

--john

[ldeikis]

What are the advantages of the systems that use a dedicated line at each end? Is it a matter of more control pulling the sail down? Or is my outhaul that is pulling back and down not as good as a line that pulls mostly down?
--john

The page Greenlake linked to has some interesting discussion among bigger boat folks about that. As it applies to us, I think the pro's of a dedicated line at each end is fewer friction points (a single line has to pass through both the new clew and tack, plus incur friction from all those blocks... two lines, or a line and a hook, mean you're only tugging on half the friction at once, and usually fewer blocks because there's less redirection) plus less complication and spaghetti on the boom and in the cockpit.

The disadvantage of your system is there's more to deal with in the moment of reefing, and it also requires you to reach the very end of the boom, which can be very challenging hove-to in rough seas. Having your interaction be mid-boom or even at the mast is much more comfortable when you're already in over your head.

My regular outhaul and reef are run in parallel like the left half of A, except cleated to two different cleats about 2/3 of the way to the mast. When I have to reef, I leave the outhaul alone and just uncleat the reefing line, yank on it, cleat it, and make a quick larks head out of the slack. I have had no issues with the slack. Currently I'm rerunning my cunningham line through the new tack, but I think I would really appreciate the hook like Talbot. Right now I have too many steps at the mast--lower halyard enough, cleat it temporarily, redo cunningham line to be reefing tack and cleat that, uncleat and tighten up halyard and recleat firmly. If I could just lower the halyard, hook the reef point and retighten and cleat the halyard I'd be thrilled.

I'm new to reefing generally, but I find the majority of my days out require it, almost always in the narrow bend where the river flares out into a bay... with a tug or something bearing down. I think there's some sort of rule that ensures that if I reef at the mooring the wind will be so gentle that I'll have trouble reaching the bay to begin with.

[TIM WEBB]

Reefing while hove-to is definitely easiest, especially singlehanded, and the hook makes it even easier. Having a topping lift is a plus too. The key is to be able to do it very quickly, from near the mast, so whatever system lets you do that is best for you. While using a shackle on the OH should give you the horizontal tension on the "new foot" you need, it may not have enough down tension, and as Ideikis points out, would be difficult to accomplish hove-to, unless you drop the main completely, reef, then raise the main again. Also, someone with luff slugs might find the hook easy to use, whereas someone using the boltrope might not ... ?

[jeadstx]

On the Tx200 this year we put in and took out reefs a couple times. We turned into the wind. Using the reefing hook simplified things. We released the main halyard a little to put the grommet on the reefing hook to make the new tack, then pulled the line to the aft end to bring that part of the sail to the boom cleating the line to the forward end of the boom.

Like Tim, I have the advantage of slugs on the luff of the sail.

John

[Interim]

This makes sense. I was imagining seeing the need at the pier, and reefing there. I wasn't thinking about the need to respond to changing weather.

But even so, Tim's point makes me wonder about the performance I was getting with my outhaul system. I recall the clew being 5-6" above the boom. I was so happy to have control of the heel that I wasn't thinking about much else. This will become clear with more time on the water (as with all things).

--jf

[jeadstx]

It's nice if you only have to reef before going out, but part of the ability to reef quick and efficiently is for those times when you find yourself far from the dock when the wind decides to pick up. Of course, the inverse also happens, you start the day with strong winds and then they lighten and you need to easily shake a reef out.

John

[TIM WEBB]

Yeah, they call it "jiffy reefing" for a reason! ;-P

Usually, one is in more of a hurry when reefing than when shaking one out, but it's nice to be able to do either one quickly.

jf, if you take a look at Sailrite's jiffy reefing installation instructions (wanted to post a link here, but they've changed their website all around and I can't find it), they recommend installing the aft eye and block such that the aft reef line is pulling down and back at about a 45 degree angle when the reef cringle is at the boom. This way you get the proper "down and back" tension on the new clew when reefed.

The nice (and safe) thing about reefing when hove-to is that the boat is in "neutral", i.e. the main is totally out of the equation. Sheet and vang are loose. However, you're reefing because the breeze has picked up, and that means the boat will be rolling a lot. That's why you don't want to be back in the stern pulling the boom to center and trying to fiddle around with something back at the end of the boom - you want to be able to do it from a low and central position near the mast. The hook and clew line lead to a forward cleat allow for this.

[jeadstx]

On my Day Sailer, the aft line is more vertical. Having found that did not work as well as I liked. When I put the reefing line hardware on the Mariner's boom aft end (same boom as DS), I put it to pull down and back as Tim suggests. Worked much better. I will be re-doing the DS boom aft end soon. I also run the line thru a small fairlead at the forward part of the boom to prevent from having to move to the stern when reefing.

On the Tx200 we were able to turn in to the wind to reef since there were 3 of us onboard. The "hove to" position would be beneficial when single handing.

John

[Interim]

Tim and John--

I understand what you're saying, and the clear advantages. The 2 advantages of what I have now are a) it is there already, and b) it was cheap (a shackle and a hook).

I think the systems you describe will make a nice winter upgrade for me.

Thanks much for the ideas.

--john

[K.C. Walker]

+1 for using the reefing hook at the tack. One small variation I've recently implemented and like is to tie a loop of line through the reefing tack crinkle. I just use an overhand knot at the end of the loop and it's easy to grab and thread over the hook rather than trying to get the crinkle on. It's just a little quicker but it is the time when you want everything to go really quick and smooth.

My small variation on the left-hand side of diagram "A" is that I tie my reefing line permanently to the clew crinkle. It is permanently rigged with the sail so it goes up through the reefing clew crinkle back down, and then rigged through a cheek block on the boom and forward to a cleat over the cuddy.

[GreenLake]

What's the advantage of tying the line to the sail? My preferred setup used a horn cleat near the end of the boom. The reefline I use is very thin, so a bowline knot in its end will fit through the reef cringle. I would keep the line on the boom, thread the bowline through the cringle when I rigged the sail, and simply hook it over the cleat. I don't take the sail off the boom during the season any more, so now everything stays rigged (and when the horn cleat gave out, I replaced it by an eyestrap). Cleating the reefline on the front of the boom (using a cam cleat there) instead of on the cuddy keeps it all self contained and fully rigged. All I have to do is attach the gooseneck, unroll the sail and hoist. If you need to operate near the gooseneck anyway (to hook the reef cringle at the luff) then I see little benefit of not cleating the reefline right there as well.