Mainsheet setup and Purchase System

[jeadstx]

I haven't adjusted my blocks on the tracks as much since I added the barber inhaulers.

As far as the cuddy cabin horn cleats mentioned earlier, I still have mine but the halyards go to cam cleats instead of the horn cleats. I find it easier for me to deal with cam cleats than the horn cleats especially when single handing.

John

[Salty Dog]

If I did put tracks and cars back on the inside of the coaming. Would the length of the original track be good , or could I improve on the system with longer tracks or would it be wasted. What I had Been considering would cost Prob. $400

SD

[Salty Dog]

[album][/album]

I had considered something like this. But mine is a DSII so I would use a 180deg Swivle lead block on the front of the cuddy

[GreenLake]

If I did put tracks and cars back on the inside of the coaming. Would the length of the original track be good , or could I improve on the system with longer tracks or would it be wasted. What I had Been considering would cost Prob. $400

That sounds high. I used this: https://fisheriessupply.com/harken-dinghy-pinstop-jib-lead-track (~$65/pair) and these: https://fisheriessupply.com/harken-pinstop-jib-lead-w-eyestrap-450 (~$110 / pair) plus a set of blocks (I use Ronstand 55m autoratchet blocks (~ $110 / pair). So, my total comes to < $300 and that's without looking for deals. Before upgrading ratchet blocks, I used these https://fisheriessupply.com/harken-single-40mm-carbo-blocks-2650 (~ $45 / pair), which make it about half of your estimate.

The length of the track I picked was the same as the original, can't remember what that was now. The new tracks are much stiffer. The old ones failed when a single fastener pulled out. These ones seem more solid and better able to handle loads that pull "away" from the surface they are fastened on, as would be the case if you cleat the sheets on the CB trunk.

[Salty Dog]

GL

yes those look good. I'm going to take your advice from before, and wait and see how the new stuff works for a while. then I might put them on.
I saved that site in my favorites.
SD

[GreenLake]

Good. If for some reasons you don't want ratchet blocks, you can save yourself some money, I've listed the substitute in the original post above.

[DigitalMechanic]

I just used some recycled 2.25 blocks off another boat (probably a little big). The jib sheet is not near as tough to hold in hand as the main. No jib ratchets for me thus far, but if you you had ratchets I am sure it would make it that much more easier...

[GreenLake]

I sailed for many years without ratchets on the jib sheets. Can definitely be done.

[DigitalMechanic]

If I did put tracks and cars back on the inside of the coaming. Would the length of the original track be good , or could I improve on the system with longer tracks or would it be wasted. What I had Been considering would cost Prob. $400

I haven't adjusted my blocks on the tracks as much since I added the barber inhaulers.

A few of the national champions that I've discussed this with say that they leave the track block all the way forward at all times and use the barber in-haul as the means to control jib twist.

Just saying.... That is why I said in-haulers would be most bang for you buck (granted you already do not have them).

Those cleats you referenced, I considered using for halyards. That would put them behind my mast vs on the side. Would eliminate the occasional jib sheet snag that occurs. Also would allow easy adjustment of the scallops in the jib sail leech.

Again, everything we are talking about is probably more geared toward racing than cruising. Nit picky stuff... But again my disclaimer... I am not the most experienced sailor

[DigitalMechanic]

I sailed for many years without ratchets on the jib sheets. Can definitely be done.

I feel you. You previously mentioned the eclectic crew on your boat... Ratchets would be a nice addition for junior or lady sailors... definitely more fun for them...

For me, I am fine with the 2.25 non-ratchet blocks, but I can totally see the value of the ratchets to compliment right crew... It is all about making the boat more fun for everyone

Probably next on my todo lost if to add some ratchets to the jib sheeting.

[jeadstx]

Salty Dog, maybe we can get together down at Canyon Lake. I need to get down there anyhow and since I'm currently unemployed, I have time during the week to get down that way. If you do decide to put the tracks back on, I have a 6' section of the original size track. You can cut off what you need, free.

John

[Salty Dog]

I just learned about hiking out and racing DS about a year ago. seemed everyone had a crew. I got a crew on the second day. he could not hike out due to the swivel blocks on top of the coaming were right where he need to sit. I thought about going to blocks inside the coaming to free up the top for hiking. then I thought I might as well put them on tracks like original for added adjustment. so that is where I am now in my master plan. I did add barber haulers already just haven't tried them out yet.

[DigitalMechanic]

Not sure why, but for whatever reason I was thinking that your swivel cleats were on the side of the coamings. Maybe that is what happens when one's stays up late and/or drinks, lol.

I totally get why you want to move the jib sheet now, relocating it makes total sense to me. That seat on the rail seems to be prime real estate for crew

In case you need some info to compare it to...

The tracks on my boat are 22mm wide (low beam equivalent), and 13" long. I looked in the Harken catalog and looks like there are variations of comparable track in different lengths (model #2720 or #2751). I believe the universal (put what you want on it) car for 22mm track is #2750. It has the knob on it to tighten/loosen it from the track for quick adjustment. http://www.mauriprosailing.com/us/product/HAR2750.html?gclid=CODqjryU2ckCFUgXHwodluMI0Q

The shortest track I found is a little under 2ft vs 13in. http://www.mauriprosailing.com/us/product/HAR2720600MM.html?gclid=CIjJ8pGQ2ckCFdEXHwodU2YJ5g
I am not sure if this will complicate things trying to re-inforce the track behind the coaming, as the previous glassed in wood section is not that long (the part I previously mentioned that most likely is why the jib track was removed by the PO). Conversely, you can cut and cap. Cap looks like part #2722. http://www.mauriprosailing.com/us/product/HAR2722.html?gclid=CNK457eT2ckCFYIlHwodmqcJ6A

If you are trying to cut costs, a nice first step to take is getting your existing swivel cleats to work on the new tracks/cars. I am pretty sure I know what swivel cleats you are talking about, but have not seen a picture on your boat. If my assumption is correct, I personally cannot seem to figure out how you would convert them to the jib car (mount and angle correctly). You may end up having to completely overhaul the jib sheeting system if you convert to "tracks and car on the coaming"? Maybe someone else knows how to do that (unless you wanted a complete overhaul anyway)? If someone knows, it would definitely save you some $$$. Track and cars seem like half of that $400 estimate.

[DigitalMechanic]

DM

I noticed that yours has the jib track on it. The PO took them off my boat but I've been wandering if I should put them back on. I don't know if the adj.is worth the effort and money.

SD

Now I know a little more about your driver for all of this, to re-answer your original question... In my opinion the adjustment benefit is probably not worth the money (considering how high the cost is). The relocation benefit for your crew positioning probably is...

I don't know a whole lot, but I do know that I seemingly always wish we could sit out a little further when we get the boat moving faster. Or maybe it is we always want to go a little faster lol. Can't sheet in for more power and keep the boat flat-ish without moving weight out.

[jeadstx]

The original track is 5/8" width. Duckworks sells a Racelite slide for the block at a reasonable price. http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/ri ... /index.htm

John