DaySailer.org Forum

On the pole, both the topping lift and the downhaul are attached to the center of the pole, The topping lift is secure with a shackle to an eye loop fitting on the center of the pole. The downhaul line has a loop in one end (pass line through loop to secure) to allow me to secure it through the eye loop at the center without the need of a bulky knot. I use a 3.5' section of bungee cord on the topping lift with a sister clip at on end to attach the topping lift line to.

The spinnaker head of the sail is attached by a swivel shackle on the end of the spinnaker halyard. I also had to add a new pad eye to the mast to replace the one that was there. The original was mounted to low on the mast on the DS II. The DS I mast didn't have a pad eye for the pole, so I just had to put one on there.

John

John, I'm wondering. If I understand you correctly your topping lift has a section of bungee cord in it, yet is also adjustable, and further, can be taken apart via sister clips? When do you find you adjust your topping lift, and on what occasions do you take it apart where rope meets bungee?

Also, if I understood your description correctly, you would be threading the entire length of the downhaul through that little loop to attach it to the pole. Do you leave the downhaul attached to the pole when you're not using it? Where do you store your pole, by the way. On the DS1, you might have a shelf above the seats (if it's an early boat), but on the DSII it would be underfoot in the cockpit. Do you store it along the mast? That would explain the need for adjusting the topping lift.

I'm curious, does your "pad eye" look more like the picture for the NG1-37 or the Sch92-11X on this page: http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/Spinnaker_ ... _Eyes.html ?

Yes, that swivel shackle is very important. What knot do you use for your halyard? Or do you use another shackle to attach to the swivel? (My swivel just has two eyes, but I've seen them where one side is a snap shackle of sorts. Since I don't have that, I tie on the halyard directly (it has no eye in it, both ends are the same, so I can use either one depending on which side I launch the spinnaker from).

You don't mention your sheets, but presumably you use sister clips for them.

Yes, the topping lift has a section of bungee cord on it, it is adjustable if needed. The sister clips allow the pole to be detached if not in use. While racing, the clips stay attached to the topping lift line. They also help me untangle things if that should occur.

The pole downhaul line remains attached to the pole, even when the pole is not in use and stowed. When in use the line is run through its' fairlead and at the ready. As for storing the pole, on the DS I the plan is to store it on the side shelf. The DS II however doesn't have that available. On the DS II the pole is stored in the cuddy cabin where it can be pulled out easily for use. With deploying the spinnaker, I had to remove my hatch covers to make access to the spinnaker and pole easier. Of course eliminating my hatch cover also caused me to lose my compass mounted to the hatch cover. The solution was to install a center "stalk" to mount the compass to. It can't be easily bumped as it is recessed slightly. Having it recessed into the cuddy cabin a little allows me to put the hatch covers back on when I put the boat on the trailer.

The pad eye I used is similar to PE-3SC on the page you sent, although I got it from RaceLite. http://www.racelitehardware.com/rl272smspri.html (the small size).

The places where I attach hardware I put a loop in the end of the line using a "saddle stitch" with waxed nylon harness thread. Something left over from my saddle building days. I have loops I put in lines 10 years ago that are still holding strong. I don't like the bulk of a knot. Hardware that I may change out from time to time, I attach by running the end of the line through the loop, cinch it up to secure it. Some hardware I attach the loop to directly. Sometimes, as in the case of the swivel double shackles (with screw type clevis pin) used on the spinnaker, I put the clevis pin through the loop and attach the hardware to the spinnaker head when the spinnaker is going to be used. I thought about using sister clips, but wanted to reduce weight aloft.

Yes, the sheets are attached with sister clips as well. I also have a ring between the sister clip and the grommet on the spinnaker, held in place with a small shackle. This gives me an option to attach the pole to the ring or just to the line, I've done both, but prefer the ring at this point.

John

For a non-bulky knot, try the halyard hitch, or the buntline hitch. They are similar to each other, in that they cinch tight under load. For example, for the buntline hitch, you take the free end through a ring or grommet and then use it to tie a clove hitch around the standing part (with the free end towards the grommet). The clove hitch will slide up and jam against the grommet, but in modern rope, it can still be untied after taking load.

Neither knot is more difficult to tie than a bowline. (Excellent tying instructions for knots can easily be found online by searching their name).

I don't yet use sister clips for the sheets (want to, but haven't found any in my stocking this Christmas). Instead, I make do with bowline knots which I tie with large-ish loops. Those allow me to attach the pole to the loop. If I don't it has a tendency to slide down the sheet.

The pole sliding down the sheets is why I like the rings I added. I have thought about putting a "stop" on the sheet line to restrict sliding. I have found I like using the sister clips.

John

See, that's why I like these discussions. I'm totally sold on the advantages of sister clips, but had thought that I would lose the side benefit of the loops; I now have a few good ideas how I can make sister clips work while still preventing the pole from sliding back.

The one obvious advantage of sister clips is that you can quickly connect the two sheets together and pull them across the forestay so you can set the spinnaker from the other jibe. Doing the same with tying and untying bowlines takes so much longer.

How did you set up your stern blocks for the sheets? And where do you cleat them off? I'm still stuck with my jury rig
.
It works for me when I fly the spinnaker, but some of my crew grumble about it.

I don't have dedicated cleats. For the guy, I run a half turn around one of the foredeck horn cleats and then repurpose one of the cam cleats on the cuddy lip (Barber inhauls aren't needed at the same time). I mostly cleat the guy (windward sheet) when on a broad reach, otherwise I play both guy and sheet without cleating them.

For my stern block on the DS II, I used a small cheek block with a spacer on the front to angle it up a bit to go to the cam mounted on the rail. I mounted a small cam on the rail with a loop to serve as a fairlead since the line diameter is small. See attach images. My friend David has been using a block attached to a loop, but has been having a problem with the block turning and twisting the sheet. He is switching to a cheek block as well. On the DS I the plan is to mount a cheek block in a similar manner as used on the DS II. For the cams, I recently bought original O'Day "new/old" stock spinnaker cams for mounting on the wooden coamings of the DS I. These parts are 50 years old and have never been mounted on a boat and cam in their original packaging from Schaffer.







John

I place my cams on the rail at a point to "hopefully" avoid problems with hiking when needed. On the DS II, the oarlock had to also be considered.

John

This discuss is exactly what I was hoping for when I started this thread. Lots of different approaches to the same issue, with good explanations and pictures. Thank you all. Let's keep sharing.

With the boat being covered for winter, you will have to deal with my awful MS Word drawings.

I chose to set up my cleats directly aft of the chainplates. This prevented me, or my crew, from ever having to sit on them.

Both pictures are from the water looking at the starboard side.

MookaCB, is the round green circle the stern block?

John

It is a small cheek block. It is mounted flat to allow hiking.

I will be at my sailing club tomorrow evening and will see if I can get a picture.