by tomodda » Fri Jul 22, 2022 12:50 am
Yes on looping a "Tack Line" thru the luff-side reef grommet and around the mast. My own reef setup at the mast is quite "ghetto," just a spare length of Sta-set that I loop thru my reef grommet as described, then forward of the mast and under the halyard cleat (actually my jib downhaul cleat, but let's keep this simple). Tied off with a reef knot, of course. I only rig the Tack Line when needed and takes but a few seconds (and of course, I capsize the reef knot to get it off again). I have another piece of Sta-set if I need to take in the second reef. If there's any hint that I might need to reef later in the day, I keep the Tack Line already rigged up loosely thru the grommet and around the mast, otherwise it's tied to the fore thwart.
Before I come off sounding too cavalier about reefing, some notes:
#1 The time to reef is when you think you might need to, not when you EMERGENCY need to. It's not as if you are going to be caught by a sudden unexpected huge wind increase and suddenly need to reef under a press of sail - if/when that happens you luff the boat, [EDIT] sort yourself out, heave to, [END EDIT] and THEN reef. Your local sailing waters may vary (Western Lakes are way more prone to sudden violent invisible winds), but around here in Mid-Atlantic you can see the weather coming. Reef early and often!
#2 Standing astride the CB case, just forward of the thwarts, but behind the cuddy, is the safest, most stable place in the boat. No problem reaching over to the mast and managing the Main Halyard, Tack Line, and assorted reefing gear from there. I've also run my slab reefing Leech Lines to cleats on the boom, about 10 inches aft of the gooseneck, along with my topping lift cleat right nearby also on the boom (I run it "backwards, it ties off to the masthead, goes thru a cheek block at the clew/far end of the boom and then forward to me). This all means that I can do all actions needs for reefing while standing in my "safe spot." YMMV in a DS2, but the DS1 has just enough space for me to work there. It gets a little more interesting when single-handing, but bungee cord on the tiller to the rescue! [EDIT] Heave to and reef [END EDIT]
#3 I use a downhaul on my boom (tied to the bottom of the gooseneck), not a Cunningham. As you DO have a Cunningham, you may be better off using it on your reef cringle. I hear you on relying on your luff bolt rope to keep the new "tack" of your reefed sail where it belongs, but I'd still tie a loop or soft shackle around the mast. Belt-and-Suspenders approach, because remember - you are going to want to keep your reefed sail FLAT. This means lots of tension on that leach line, and set it up so it angles back, pulling the new "clew" aft as much as possible. If you can get the foot tight enough, not only will you be getting that sail flat, but you may not even need to use buntlines. We can argue on the utility of buntlines some other day, but it's greatnot to have to bother with them.
#4 Last note, I just can't see any situation on our Daysailers where you need a Cape-Horn-Proof reefing setup. If it's blowing that hard, sustained Force 8 or so, then you shouldn't be out there. Worst comes to worst - and assuming your lee shore is not rock-bound - run under bare poles to the nearest shore and beach her (or drive her into a marsh). That was my "Bug Out Strategy" on my Hobie, have done it 2-3 times, and no reason not to use it on as DS with our shallow draft and light weight. Again, YMMV depending on your prevailing winds and shores, but old adage applies - always plan for the worst, enjoy the best.
Fair winds!
Tom
Last edited by
tomodda on Fri Jul 22, 2022 7:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.