shroud adjusters

[Roger]

What are most people using for shroud adjusters, turnbuckles or actual shroud adjusters. If using turnbuckles what is the tension rating on thim, if using shroud adjusters, what length are you using. I have to replace mine this spring and am unsure as to what to use.

[Guest]

I have turnbuckles on my 1979 DS II, they are the same as the originals that O'Day used, but one size bigger since all standing rigging was upgraded to 1/8" diam. instead of the original 3/32" diam. You might want to give Rudy at D&R Marine a call (508) 644-3001, since he can make a complete set of standing rigging w/turnbuckles for the DS at a great price, perhaps better than a local rigger. Rudy has all the O'Day specs, and is THE place for replacement parts!

Rod Johnson, "SUNBIRD" (rjohnson24-at-juno.com)

[Bob Hunkins]

I use turnbuckles because they allow easier control and finer adjustment ability. Plus they're just easier to use.

As to how much tension to use it depends how your sails are cut, how long your spreaders are and how far forward or aft they are swept. Getting a book on sail boat trim is probably a god idea. I can recommend "Performance Racing Trim" which is part of the North U. Series by Bill Gladstone.
http://www.northu.com/
There are a lot of other books out there and I'm sure that you could find several through Amazon.com. (Be sure to click through to Amazon via Mike's links on his front page to give him some support for this site.)

[Lee Peterson]

Roger,

My '86 Precision DS1 came with a deck stepped mast with pin type shroud adjusters (about 5" long) on both shrouds and the forestay. I like them alot since they're extremely quick to set up and adjust. Repeating settings is as easy as placing the pins in the same holes.

There are two drawbacks that I've found with the pin adjusters. The first drawback is that you need some type of mechanical advantage to tension the rig. To gain the advantage I need, I set the shroud adjusters where I want them, raise the mast, then use my 12:1 vang attached to the jib halyard shackle and stemhead fitting to tension the rig and allow me to place the forestay pin in the proper hole. The method works great, but puts some strain on the halyard block and fasteners until the forestay is attached. This hasn't seemed to be a problem since I've used the method for the past 7 years or so.

The second drawback is that to adjust the pin adjuster you have to pull the pin out, completely freeing the shroud or stay. With the deck stepped mast, that either requires another person to stabilize the mast, or the ability to lower the mast to the transom while the adjustments are made. Trying to do that on the water can be an adventure, so I don't do that anymore.

What I'd like to try is a pin adjuster-lever combination for the forestay. I think that could provide the leverage to tension the rig and the ease and repeatability of the pin adjuster. Releasing the tension on the lever could be a bit exciting though. Maybe I'll just stick with what I've got.

Lee

[Roger]

Thanks for all your input. I would especially like to order from 'the source' ... Rudy, but I live in Canada, and suspect that by the time I have paid the exchange, duty and taxes, I'd have to sell the boat to recover from the debt.

In all seriousness though, what I was refering to in the rating for the turnbuckles was the pound rating that can often be seen either on the package or in the accompaning literature. In a jury rig situation last fall I had to buy 3 turnbuckles rated at 90 pounds at the local hardware store. In checking some marine outlets online this winter, I note that the turnbuckles in the size range I am looking at (6 1/2 inches) are rated at poundage significantly higher than that. I can't remember exactly, but I venture to say that it was around 1200 pounds. I appologize for not being more clear in my question earlier. Can I get away with 90 pound rated turnbuckles made from galvanized metal, or do I really need to beef up these to stainless steel ones, and if so to what pound rating?

As well, if anyone knows of a Canadian distribution point for DS parts, I would be very pleased to get that information. Presently I use HMP (Holland Marine Products) in Toronto or The Binacle in Halifax as both have online catalogs.

Roger

[Guest]

Yes, you want stainless steel and rated for 1/8" wire which I suggest you upgrade to if you haven't.
Turnbuckels and new rigging are a lot cheaper than a new mast.



Chris Lewton (clewton-at-erols.com)

[Roger]

I have gone to 1/8 all around, but haven't adopted the ss turnbuckles yet. That will occur this spring. I have ss shrouds but only galvanized forestay, which I hope to change as well. Is anyone using galvanized without any problems?

[Guest]

From what I've heard, galvanized wire is actually stronger than Stainless Steel of the same diameter, however, any rusting of the wire will weaken it and galvanized will rust (so will stainless that is dirty or encased in plastic).
I had those pin and hole shroud adjusters on a previous boat (small trimarran), I had a regular turnbuckle on the forestay to make the fine adjustments in tension. You forgot one more hazard to those adjusters that use a seperate clevis pin to adjust, I lost a pin the first time that I tried to tighten a shroud after launching the boat! I was all alone on the boat and had to think quick about how to hold up the mast while I looked for a spare. Thankfully the mast was only 12' tall (as I said...small boat) and there was not much wind.

Rod Johnson, "SUNBIRD" (rjohnson24-at-juno.com)