DIY second reef

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DIY second reef

Postby jdoorly » Sun Nov 28, 2010 12:53 am

I got several quotes to have a second reef point installed in my new Intensity mainsail; The cheapest was $200 (Pryde) so I decided to put the reef in myself as one of many winter projects. I've never sewn before manually or otherwise so I practiced on my boat cover/tent and added reinforcements, zippers, and a "smokestack" like thingy that goes around the mast.

The first reef's luff cringle is 28" up from the boom and the leech cringle is 34" up from the boom which is about 21% of the sail area. After a little more math I found putting the second reef at 36" above the first reef will reduce sail by about 44%, which was my goal.

There were four reinforcement panels on the luff and four (larger ones) on the leech, and I took dimensions for all of them. I have a book named "The Sailmaker's Apprentice" and I reread everything having to do with sewing and reinforcement, etc., but in the end I decided not to do any of the heavy duty techniques suggested in the book and instead I mostly copied the existing reef points.

I made patterns of the panels and layed them out on the sailcloth in an efficient way, and then traced them onto the cloth. Less than 1/2 yard of 5 oz sailcloth was enough for this project, also ordered Defender's sewing kit for needles and twine and palm. I broke all the needles practicing because the needles were not sharp enough to get through multiple layers of sailcloth, and the twine was way to thick. But I found a whipping twine at West Marine that is only slightly larger then the existing sail thread, and found large sharp needles at a local fabric store where I also found "Liquid Stitch" seam glue, and an awl for poking holes in dense fabric. I used the Liquid Stitch glue for assembling the panels to each other and tacking the two reinforcement stacks onto the sail (the first (existing) reef used doublesided tape instead of glue). Removed 1.5 ft of bolt rope tabling and leech cord tabling to glue the reinforcements under the tablings. I drew pencil lines and hashes where the holes for the zig-zaged thread should go, and then poked the awl through the hundreds of hash marks.

Then the sewing began, 12 hours of it! I'm sure it could have been sewn in short order by my wife and her machine, but I wanted to sew it manually, for the experience. To make a z-z manually you make a crooked straight stitch so that half the zigs are on one side of the sail and half the zags on the other, then sew the same set of holes again but on opposite sides. Beginning and terminating a seam is a problem. If you tie a knot it is big and clunky and looks bad, and knots tend to untie with twine. Oversewing, where excess thread is tucked under adjacent stitches, works well and looks ok but you can't oversew a zig-zag very well. I also tried a dab of glue but the glue is big and clunky and attracts dirt. Also, the amount of thread to attach to the needle is a problem. If you don't have enough thread there's another termination to deal with. If you have too much the thread gets tangled and knotted and won't pull thru the hole. I ended up using doubled up thread about 2 to 3 ft long but using a finger to hold the thread taught enough not to tangle, and terminating with a single overhand knot and a tiny dab of glue on it, cutting the excess thread when the glue was nearly dry. The sailor's palm was worthless; I did most stitching with a needlenose pliers. When stitching was done I went over all the stitching with a hammer to flatten the seam as much as possible.

I used 1/2" brass grommets for the 2 reef point cringles. Had to sharpen the hole puncher to get through the 5 layers of sailcloth. Alternatively, I could have ordered stainless steel cringles and rented the the installation tools from sailrite.com but I already had the brass & tools on hand.

I liked doing this project so I'll probably do more like it- I'm thinking of cutting down and reinforcing an old jib to make it into a storm jib to balance a double reefed main, and maybe sewing some foam into the head of the mainsail.
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Postby GreenLake » Wed Dec 01, 2010 5:58 am

Pretty ambitious project. And it seems a pretty good choice for a home-built project - at least it seems much more manageable than re-cutting a sail.

I learned something from your description of sowing the zig-zag by hand. Is it just my impression or did you use a more massive thread than your sailmaker had used originally?

Where do you sail that you think you'll be likely to use a second reef?

With the reduction in height and reduction in sail area, you should see a nice reduction in heeling moment.

As far as the brass grommets are concerned, I might worry about those if you plan to sail on saltwater. Did you ever consider sown grommets?

My sails are not made from uniform sail cloth, but some fabric that has a square weave of stronger threads - like a rip-stop fabric. I wonder whether that kind of fabric would be easier to sow. Or more difficult?
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Postby itsermam » Wed Dec 01, 2010 4:52 pm

I am impressed that you took the job on and did it by hand. After reading the sail making section in This Old Boat, I was pretty much convinced that I would leave sail issues to sail makers, but after reading your post I am reconsidering the possibilities...Nicely Done!
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Postby jdoorly » Wed Dec 01, 2010 8:05 pm

Hi greenlake,
Pretty ambitious project. And it seems a pretty good choice for a home-built project - at least it seems much more manageable than re-cutting a sail. Hoping I don't have to deal with chord, just rip off a few bottom panels, transfer the reinforcement patch and install a clew cringle.

I learned something from your description of sowing the zig-zag by hand. Is it just my impression or did you use a more massive thread than your sailmaker had used originally? My thread was about twice as thick as the original thread, it was the smallest I could find ("West Marine/FSE Robline Whipping Twine 05", they also had 08 and 10 which I'm thinking of using for light air sheets). It was also doubled through the needle. I think my reef points are an order of magnitude stronger than the originals.

Where do you sail that you think you'll be likely to use a second reef?
Just knowing its there gives me more confidence. The weather in Long Island Sound last summer was the windiest I've ever seen and many times I wished for a second reef. Also, I'm a keel guy (not to mention a decrepit old man), this is my first non-keel boat and it (the boat) acts faster than me; I've been behind the curve several times and dunked a leeward guest, and there have been several times I could not get the sheet cleat to let go due to wind pressure. When I solo I feel chained to the mainsheet. And, my auto helm does not like weather helm, so I want to move the CE forward when its windy.

As far as the brass grommets are concerned, I might worry about those if you plan to sail on saltwater. Did you ever consider sown grommets?
Yes I am concerned about the brass grommets, but I decided to wait and see- I know how to replace them with SS if I need to. I may yet do some fancy work on them when I get snowed in, I certainly have the right twine!

My sails are not made from uniform sail cloth, but some fabric that has a square weave of stronger threads - like a rip-stop fabric. I wonder whether that kind of fabric would be easier to sow. Or more difficult?
I think the difficulty in penetrating sail cloth is not the cloth but the stabilizers and finishing treatments on the surface. I think that "sail" type needles are not sharp so that they won't go through the cloth threads but in between the threads. However, I don't see how you can expect a dull needle to go through even 1 layer. All the sail lofts use sewing machines with sharp needles.


Thanks itsermam, 'Damn the torquedos, full speed ahead!'
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