Broken CB cable...

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Broken CB cable...

Postby Lloyd Franks » Sun Dec 17, 2006 8:21 pm

Well, sailed my DS2 on Biscayne Bay today. Winds were 10 to 15, and sky was mostly sunny. Wonderful sailing.

But alas, when pulling the boat back on the trailer, I forgot to uncleat and raise the CB...Ooops, broken cable. From the looks of the area where it separated, it was time for a new one. Is it best to replace the cable with the same metal cable, or is it better to use line?

Also, I assume I cannot get at the cable unless the boat is off the trailer and either hoisted or careened. Is there another way? I don't have room for careening, and no way to hoist...Unless someone knows a way to do so. Thanks
Lloyd Franks
 
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Joined: Wed May 24, 2006 7:53 am
Location: Yankeetown, Fl

broken downhaul

Postby Roger » Tue Dec 19, 2006 1:57 am

If your cb was cleated, it is likely the down haul line that you broke. (Don't ask me how I know!) The down haul line is a nylon cord, the uphaul is a metal cable. If you can pull up your board, then the uphaul is fine, no need to replace it. If the downhaul is busted, then you can fix it from under your trailer. Where it inserts into the cb intself is within an inch of the hull surface and is easily reached from under the trailer. You will need to dig out the fiberglass where the old end was glassed in, reglass the replacement line in its place and using an 18" long wire, (a coat hanger will do fine) drop the wire down the downhaul hole until it extends beyond the cb slot under the hull. Tape your new line to the wire and gently pull it back up through the downhaul hole, re thread it through the appropriate blocks and anchor it to the cuddy roof as per the original rigging scheme. I have a copy of the rigging scheme as well as some pictures if you are interested.

E-mail me at roger02@mts.net with your e-mail address, and I can send you details.
Roger
 
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Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 6:36 pm
Location: Ninette Manitoba

Postby Lloyd Franks » Tue Dec 19, 2006 9:11 pm

Thanks Roger. After looking at things today, and reading the files, I think I have another problem...Good ol' water in the bilge. So, the bushing around the pin is either worn, or non-existent. I removed the access plates and found the pin bolt and nut (or two bolts...I can't see it). Haven't tried to loosen it yet, but access is a breeze.

I plan to support the boat, then slide the trailer out. Then drop the board and replace both lines (up and down). Thanks for the tip on snaking the new stuff. Then add a new bushing (and new pin if needed). I also think I saw that white grease should be added to reduce the water flow through the holes for the lines. That will give me new lines and reduce bilge water. Is there anything else that you can give me guidance on. I hate suprises :(
Lloyd Franks
 
Posts: 46
Joined: Wed May 24, 2006 7:53 am
Location: Yankeetown, Fl

Postscript

Postby Lloyd Franks » Tue Dec 19, 2006 9:15 pm

P.S. The outing that preceded the ramp mishap was fantastic. We sailed with both sails, with just the main, and then with just the jib. Moved along nicely in all configurations. She sailed beautifully.
Lloyd Franks
 
Posts: 46
Joined: Wed May 24, 2006 7:53 am
Location: Yankeetown, Fl

another usual suspect

Postby Roger » Wed Dec 20, 2006 8:21 pm

Another usual suspect for leaks around the centerboard is the uphaul hole. It is the lower forward hole in the cuddy cabin on the forward edge of the cb trunk housing. The uphaul goes through this hole along the sole (floor) of the cuddy, to a 2:1 block arrangement immediately behind the mast step.

The hole where the wire comes through is also a likely problem area. There is sometimes a gap between the cb trunk and the cuddy trunk housing. It is double, but where the hole is, the holes line up, but there should be a fg donut that seals the two together. This donut usually deteriorates over time due to stresses. Water goes through the first hole, and if it was watertight would splash into the cuddy, but instead 'falls' inbetween the two liners and ends up in the bilge. This link explains it better, as well as the fix. I used a plastic 1" plumbing nipple instead of the brass one identified in the fix and it worked great.

http://www.bobhunkins.com/mt-archives/DS2CBTLK_100.pdf


Credit to Bob Hunkins who provided the explanation and diagram from the DJ Bents article (1986) in the daysailer quarterlies.
Roger
 
Posts: 853
Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 6:36 pm
Location: Ninette Manitoba


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