by talbot » Wed Apr 22, 2009 8:24 am
Yes, 8 1/2 foot oars should be good. On a DS II, there isn't much choice where to position the oarlocks, because the only place to sit is on the centerboard trunk between the jib cleats and mainsheet swivel. The oarlocks go more or less even with the mainsheet swivel on either side.
After trying various approaches on two different boats, Here's what I think is the easiest and least intrusive installation procedure:
1. Install an inspection port on the seat back about halfway between the oarlock position and the jib block tracks. (Why not right next to or under the oarlocks? Because the same port is intended to allow servicing of the jib tracks, which are anchored to a piece of plywood that eventually rots away.)
2. Find a couple of feet of ABS or aluminum tubing. I used heavy duty ABS external electrical conduit, but in retrospect, my old broken shroud spreaders might have been better.
3. Mark screw holes for flush mount (not edge mount) stainless oarlocks on the outside surface of the coaming. The holes should be as close to the top of the coaming as possible, but far enough below the edge that the wall of the tubing will fit in between the hole and the interior surface of the coaming top. Use your new inspection port to estimate the thickness of the fiberglass and to see if there are any gobs of resin or mat in the way. You can scrape away resin gobs. If it looks like you will hit an immovable bulge, just shift your holes a bit to clear it. (Just to be clear: Distance below top edge = tubing thickness + coaming thickness.)
4. After multiple measures, take a deep breath and drill your holes. You are going to run bolts all the way through the coaming. To make sure they align, I would carefully drill one of the top holes through to the cockpit side, then mark the remaining ones with that as a reference.
5. Cut your tubing into eight short lengths, one to span each of the pairs of screw holes in the outer and cockpit surfaces of the coaming. The tubing will keep the oarlock bolts from crushing the coaming when you tighten them down. Wedge the tubing into place. This is awkward, because the inner surface of the hull is uneven. You may want to do one section at a time and fit it into place.
6. Finally, bolt your oarlocks to the outside surface of the coaming, using large washers and lock nuts (or lock washers and capnuts) on the cockpit side of the coaming. Use silicone or BoatLife on the holes, as the outer holes could be in the water on an extreme heel.
7. Close the inspection port, put the oars in the boat, and go sailing, knowing that if the wind dies, you'll be able to get in without a motor.
8. Fine points: Bring a stiff flotation cushion to sit on. I've thought of designing a temporary seat, but have always elected to go sailing instead. You can mount the oars for carrying up against the lower tanks above the cockpit sole. I used small eye straps with shock cord around the oars. (You want to be able to deploy the oars quickly. When you need them, you often need them in a hurry). Seal these holes well, as they will be under water if you ship a few big waves. By the way, I have considered further reinforcing the combing inside wtih epoxy putty. Shouldn't be too hard, now that the structure of the tubes is in place.
9. Sources: I got the inspection ports, stainless oarlocks, and eyestraps from West Marine. Everything else was local hardware. Beware of light duty oarlocks. I broke a pot metal oarlock on my last boat. Most oarlocks are designed for use on small skiffs. Fully loaded with crew and baggage, you could be pulling half a ton. This is more akin to the load a river guide would row on a whitewater trip.