Centerboard re-installation info needed please.

[Jim Akins]

Hey folks, I have read a few posts here on how to modify the CB uphaul/downhaul lines, but my situation is a little different. I actually want to re-install my CB the way it was stock from the factory. I have heard that there are line grommets that need to be installed to keep water from leaking into the bilge. I have searched for other posts for addressing this as well as other refurbishment techniques for the CB itself. So far, I have sanded, patched and cleaned up my CB, put a new coat of marine grade resin over it to sealed it back up. I will be putting a fresh coat of paint on it and then putting it back in.

Any suggestions on what else I need to do as well as posting pictures of the factory set up will be very helpful

BTW hats off to the website. I Love the forum, I have found a ton of useful information here....

[hectoretc]

Hi Jim
There seems to be a couple different configurations depending on the vintage and maker of the boat. What year is your DSII? Do you have both the up & downhaul lines coming out of the CB housing inside the cuddy (two holes) or does one of them exit the CB housing inside the cuddy and the other come out about center top of the CB housing outside in the cockpit? That info will help guide the answers.

Thanks - Scott

[Jim Akins]

The year on the title is 1974 (I assume that's correct), and yes it has a down-haul cable and an up-haul sheet and both come out inside the cuddy. Also just plastic or fiberglass grommets for both lines passing through into the cuddy. Nothing on the hull for the holes going into the trunk through the underside of the vessel. I am a little confused how the set-up for the lines work inside the cuddy also, there a block hooked to the cable end, and the other up/down? is just rope. Thanks

[hectoretc]

Hi Jim,

Just headed out the door, but to help you do some local research (on this site) until I or someone else can add more specific recommendations, try going to Google or whatever search engine you normally use, and enter this into the searh field.

site:daysailer.org uphaul leak

That will bring up a dozen or so references to the CB up/down haul leak problems on this forum and some solutions other people have tried.

More later - Thanks Scott

[TIM WEBB]

Some great info here:

http://www.bobhunkins.com/mt-archives/DS2CBTLK_100.pdf

[Jim Akins]

Thank you all so much for the replies. Although I do like using the method prescribed for keeping the trunk from leaking, I was wondering about alternate methods for accomplishing the same thing. example: If the area of the through hole for the up-haul line can be reached through the bilge access hole, how come spray insta-foam wouldn't work just as well? I am just curious if there is someone who has tried this...

[hectoretc]

Hi Jimbo,

I just got done responding to your PM in case you haven't seen it.
Boy... it's gotten awfully quiet these past weeks on the forum.

Regarding your question... I've not made the up-haul repair so I can't offer any first hand experience to share in that respect. Hopefully some others with more experience will chime in and offer sound suggestions.

Good luck

[hectoretc]

Post removed by author as it was somewhat irrelevant.

[GreenLake]

Before you spray foam anywhere, consider how you would go about removing it, if there's ever a need for that in the future for any reason. The oldest DS still in operation are now over 50 years old, so you might want to factor that kind of lifespan into your thinking.

[talbot]

My question is -- Is there something about the "standard" repair that seems difficult or inefficient? I appreciate the spirit of experimentation on the forum, but some procedures are pretty well tried and true.

[GreenLake]

@talbot, there are those who just like to get the job done, and those who enjoy coming up with their personal "twist" on things. Sometimes the latter come up with interesting approaches, but sometimes you end up with just doing things different for the sake of being different.

I enjoy the freewheeling discussions, as long as we can keep people from doing things to their boats that will be a pain for the poor future owners of them ...

...using 3M 5200, spraying foam would head my list

perhaps you have your own personal preferences.

[Jim Akins]

Actually, The standard 1/2 inch pipe repair seems to be a very good "solid" approach. However threaded brass nipples are usually tapered in both directions making the middle of the nipple a larger diameter than the ends. If you tap and screw it in, it would become too tight to go all the way thru the trunk. My idea was to do something like you see in this pic. Basically use a 1/4" thru hull fitting and insta-foam around it to keep water out.

[Jim Akins]

Thank you Green Lake for fixing my image link (That was my first time ). I guess there are many ways to skin a cat. I just found that I had a difficult time finding a brass nipple that was straight and not tapered for doing the conventional fix. As for me, I have had much success with insta-foam over the years. I Also think that drilling a 1/2" hole through the hull, then tapping it and then putting in a brass pipe nipple in may not be what the original O'day manufacturer would recommend either. (just my two cents)

[GreenLake]

I see where you are going with the foam now. I would modify this approach a bit.

As before, drill and put a bead of foam around the hole. Just enough to provide a temporary seal between the two sides.

Then, dig out about 1/2" around the hole and fill that hollow spot with your favorite epoxy filler.

Something that will have a bit of crushing strength and at the same time will definitely be waterproof through time.

You don't want to use a sanding filler, but something like SystemThree's SculpWood might work. It would be easy to push into the space around the hole, easy to drill back out to 1/2" and strong enough so you can tighten the pipe as much as you want without pulling the two sides together. And watertight.

Several short pieces of mat, saturated in epoxy might work as well - little messier but will set up even harder. With that, you will need the foam as backing, with the SculpWood being more like a modeling clay, you might not even need it.

As an aside SculpWood has other interesting uses - if any of those are likely in your future, then you won't be stuck with excess. (Epoxy seems to have a decently long shelf life).

[TIM WEBB]

I for one would be VERY interested in an alternative to the "standard repair" (I assume you mean the one described in the link I posted above?), because it requires CB removal, and I can't do CB removal!

Reason being, some PO encased the ends of the CB pivot bolt in some kind of goop that I can only describe as being rubber-like and impossible to remove.

Don't ask me how they got it down in there to begin with? I guess it was to prevent leaks at the bolt, but God help me if I ever need to remove the CB for real! Talk about doing things that give future owners headaches ...

I don't get a LOT of water in the bilge from the CB UH through hole area, but I'd still like to effect sealing it off without having to remove the CB ...